if early (pre late 69) the body ID plate (none on 69 cars) matches the # near the clutch MC. The build number on the rad shroud is different (why? dunno!).
On later cars with a VIN plate, the VIN number matches the rad shroud number including the prefix. <edit> Just like on Clubbies.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

didn't think they had flares. someone has bolted on these innocenti ones sometime in the last 38 years

never thought about cutting the roof off......not a bad idea...i wonder how you would go about it?

that's good to hear.....the rad shroud number didn't match the ID tag number. I didn't see a number on the firewall.....have to look again. this is a 67 Mk1 S, according to http://www.elevenhundred.com/colours.htm and the colour scheme (lake green / snow white) no compliance plate.

Number may be under ID tag but not usually. It's stamped into firewall with BIG stamps...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i didn't know it is there, so didn't look.

the second S has a weber box in the firewall and i am sure the number on the firewall has been removed because of that mod. does that matter?

Not for rego. They will use the # on the rad shroud. Most testers think that IS the body number. Like on Barney.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The number near the rad is the body number.
The number on the firewall near the master cylinders is the car number.
The body numbers start at 1.
The car numbers start at 501.

They made more bodies than cars (they sold replacement shells to smash repairers) so the difference between the body number and the car number should be around 500.

My Mk1 has factory flairs but I don't know if it came off the line with them but they had them at Bathurst in 68.

I have heard that 500 difference before.....it's very interesting!

I tell you what....I had no real hands on experience with S's till now....but all the info I have read on here over the years paid off today. I was able to spot so many real S things today right down to the straps for the RH tank fuel line, boot board mounts, RH tank retainer strap mount etc......

Thick brake pedal.
Heater mounts.
Oil Cooler mounts.
B series engine.

Anton, I would rub it down and see how far it has gone. Roofs aren't all that hard to replace if you have the patience from what i have been told.(braces welded in to hold the car square and cut the roof off) It would be a shame to let it go. Doogie has a roof he has been trying to get rid of for a long long time. Get id own to bare metal and see where it stands i say.

Cheers

Aaron

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didn't know that one.....

heater is still fitted in this S

B series engine? WTF??

start with lots of measuring and drawing lines, then plugging in the angle grinder....

In Victoria at least, replacing a roof would need to be engineer approved, because it's a structural member, but that said, who is gonna know unless they look under the paint. Perhaps the way to go about the restoration is to get friendly with a professional, and prepare the work, take it in and get it done, then bring it home again - eg get the replacement roof, measure it, cut it, spot it in place, then take it and get it done, then bring it home, file, prep, paint etc.

Why don't you look into a body repair course, I was going to do one, but circumstances changed and I couldn't make it anymore. My mates who did sign up for it reckon it's great - $250 for 8 x 3 hour lessons, they were shrinking panels in the 3rd lesson

come and have a look in a couple of weeks....bring your trailer and we can weld it for you, like you wanted.

Actually.....can we borrow your trailer to bring the 2 S's back? Today was just moving all the engines, and PARTS....all day!!!!!!

just having a quick thought.........you might be able to replace the complete roof and rear panel as an assembly maybe.......... lap join your front windscreen pillars, door pillars, and then weld your rear panel on and fit the seam covers on..........

but i guess if your roof rail has disappeared your body seems arent going to be too healthy either?

theres probably a few ways to go about repairing the car.......nothing is unrepairable......only way to make it economical is to do the work yourself, and you seem reasonably capable ........might be one to really sink ya teeth into

and hey........if you F*** it you can go to plan B and sell off the 'S' bits

You know the stupid questions that people ask like "Is it a Cooper S?" when you have a Clubbie!
Well I have been told that "Cooper S have a B series engine" by one such person.