Check to see if you discs or pads or both could be glazed from running them in too heavy or too light not just right

so if i kept my drums cool, i could keep up with a disc braked mini

That's pretty much a contradictory statement, the would disc brakes allow deeper braking, hence more performance. You would reach the limit of your brakes alot sooner than a disc braked mini.

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One should never skimp on the zip ties.

Nope sports and luxury cars used huge boosted drums long before disk brakes were introduced (50's).

Jam I find with my disks (cooper s, but they really need a bleed and new rotors) There is a whole level of braking where you think there's nothing left - ie the pedal can actualy go all the way in and then the brakes surprise me with their effectveness every time - but yea gotta stand on them every time.

My right leg must be stronger than I thought, I'm running 8.4's and they stop on a dime and I don't need to stand on em, and no I don't run a booster. Of course new flexi hoses all round and 2 new Cooper S slaves on back and a good bleed with new fluid probably helped

if its the only car that you drive then you wouldn't notice the difference of pedal pressure being to firm.
Have you ever taken an unboosted disc brake car for a run for a while and then jump into some jap stuff. You nearly put your head through the windscreen!! they are really light braking systems. Its like power steering and no power steering.

^^^ funny you say that, because I go from JAM to Pops (my Mini K) and I nearly put myself through the windscreen ....with 4WD (4 Wheel Drums)

I think you should have stuck with Mini items.. Is the master cylinder big enough to supply fluid to the calipers you used ?

so if i kept my drums cooler than the disc braked opposition, could i keep a competitive amount of performance considering discs dont stop any better than good drums

well with 'Cooper S tax', 'these are rare' tax, and 'wally ebay seller' tax....I would much rather my Honda's

if only someone would sell the plates and the like to fit them

maybe that "new Master Cyl" you put in there was the bigger (3/4") type,,,they tend to need more pressure applied to the pedal to work,,,the smaller master cyl is a far better "Mechaincal advantage"

& if the front calipers have quite big volume (ie:pistons are huge compared to the "S" ones, then the "Ratio or relationship" between front & rear may well suit the larger Std rear wheel cyls & the balance may well be sweet & won`t need the smaller "S" ones...if there`s no rear wheel lock up when you stand on them, then you don`t "need" the smaller "S" type rear cyls

you may also find that there will be a period of "Bedding" once the pads are bedded to the discs, then they will work far better

also "IF you have fitted quite hard compound disc pads, then they will also take some time to warm up to work better then

easy-peasy

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Anton..next week if your coming to Maccas and/or Gannon's..you can have a go at mine and see the difference. They crap over S brakes *runs*

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

yes Josh, that would be the ultimate test. Cheers mate.

I was sussing out your booster setup, but you have dual circuit setup...I saw another with single circuit....... Will be interesting to see the difference.

No difference- when the boost hits on a single circuit it locks the rear limiting valve anyway, so bugger all gets to the rears..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.