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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2005 9:42 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2005 11:51 am
Posts: 464
Location: North East melb
im having the same issue as timb was in his last post,

when i push the piston lift pin 5mm, nothing happens,

when i push it all the way, it begins to die.

and you suggest this could be a vacuum leak ??
is it possible that my engine is just running too lean??
(note, i am having no problems getting the car to idle)


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2005 1:19 pm 
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998cc
998cc
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Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:35 am
Posts: 505
Location: Benalla/Mansfield, VIC
I still haven't checked for vacuum leak, the car is running beautifully! :D

I kept turning the mixture screw bit by bit towards lean until the car ran well.
This could be over compensating for a vacuum leak but I didn't fancy
having water sucked into the engine.

A neighbour said you can check the vacuum advance mech by sucking on the tube, apparently there's a diaphram inside which can split, can anybody elaborate?

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2005 1:27 pm 
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1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 10:23 am
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Location: Armidale, NSW
TimB wrote:
I still haven't checked for vacuum leak, the car is running beautifully! :D

I kept turning the mixture screw bit by bit towards lean until the car ran well.
This could be over compensating for a vacuum leak but I didn't fancy
having water sucked into the engine.

A neighbour said you can check the vacuum advance mech by sucking on the tube, apparently there's a diaphram inside which can split, can anybody elaborate?


having water sucked into your engine won't do much to it. If you use the wd40 etc trick then this doesn't happen anyway.

yes you can check that your vacumn advance is working by sucking on the tube. Take the dissy cap off suck on the tube you should be able to see the plate that the points are on moving this means you vacumn advance is working. If it is not moving then the diaphram probably has a hole in it. The diaphram is in the circular can type thing attached to your dizzy this is if you distrubutor has vacumn advance not all do and I don't think this would be likely to be causing your problems (alot of people don't connect the vacumn advance even if thier distrubutor has it.)

Alternatively with the engine running suck on the tube the engine should change revs mostly the revs will rise if I remember correctly.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2005 1:35 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2005 11:51 am
Posts: 464
Location: North East melb
any more thoughts on pressing the piston lift pin all the way up, and having the engine dying ??


i have been trying to get this right, and today from idle if i 'boot' it, it struggles a little bit before revving up,

as though it was being flooded????

or is it too lean
*nlbink7*


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2005 1:47 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2005 1:47 pm
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Location: Newcastle
I'm pretty sure my vac isnt even connected is this bad?


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2005 1:53 pm 
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1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 10:23 am
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Location: Armidale, NSW
not really. I think it was something to do with improving either the hesitation when accelerating or a fuel economy thing. can't remember :?

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2005 1:54 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2004 5:09 pm
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Location: Central Coast, NSW.
Copied this from a previous Carbie Tuning thread, a post made by anto..

"Looking from the top of the carb, clockwise will richen. In effect by unscrewing the jet you are richening the mixture, and by screwing it in you are leaning. Pull the choke out and you'll see what I mean - the further down the jet is the more fuel.

A baseline start is to screw the jet all the way up (ie lean) and then unscrew it 12 flats, and work from there.

Do you know about the dashpot lifting pin? I can't remember if the manual mentions it or not but basically when idling, push the pin up slowly (right side of carb next to float, pushes upwards). If the revs rise and continue to rise it is too rich, if it doesn't rise at all, but starts to stall you are too lean. Your looking for a compromise, engine revs rise a bit then steady out.

Anto."


My ignition was fairly rooted. Was losing power, had flat spots, car eventually died.
What I did was
replace the spark plugs. (about $12)
replace the ignition leads. (about $30 for 5)
replace all the gaskets in the carb. (about $3)
Then i followed the instructions of winding the but all the way up on the carbie, and then winding it down 12 flats.
Then I used the pushing of the pin to retune from there.
I got it to being driveable.

BUT, also check your timing. My timing was out a horrible amount causing my flat spot.
Also my points had closed up. I mean totally closed up.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2005 4:37 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Benalla/Mansfield, VIC
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from idle if i 'boot' it, it struggles a little bit before revving up,
as though it was being flooded????

or is it too lean


This is exactly what mine was doing, I kept turning the mixture screw a flat turn at a time until eventually this stopped.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2005 4:39 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2005 11:51 am
Posts: 464
Location: North East melb
a flat turn in which direction!!?

(though, i have pulled it all apart and the problem seems to be gone now)
the plugs foil up in no time though (at idle)

im wondering if its one of the 'drive harder' cases

1100 with 12g295 and road rally cam



i got a tacho now, it falters up and down a bit at idle at the moment ( a symptom of vacuum leak??)


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