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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 10:42 am 
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The TIG
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Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 4:28 pm
Posts: 860
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Edge,
Do you think you could find out the details on what that master cylinder is from. Mastercylinders for Minis are expensive here in Canada. Plus it never hurts having Toyota parts on your vehicle. Thanks.

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 Post subject: Ops ..
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 1:13 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 1:05 pm
Posts: 129
Location: Hobart Tasmania
Sorry dude, my bad :oops:
I rang them up for you, but it was the brake limit valve or proportion valve which was
from a Toyota Corolla, NOT the (dual circuit) master cylinder. I misunderstood them. :roll:

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 1:32 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 10:23 am
Posts: 1494
Location: Armidale, NSW
There has been 1 conversion that has replaced the mini brake and I think clutch master cylinders with ones from another make so it's do able.

If I remember correctly it was for a conversion and so the resevoirs weren't in the way of the inlet manifold/plenum

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 1:46 pm 
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1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 10:23 am
Posts: 1494
Location: Armidale, NSW
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14279&highlight=master+cylinder+mazda

Is the closest I can find but I thought I had seen a better close up picture.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 3:13 pm 
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998cc
998cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2004 6:25 am
Posts: 891
Location: Sydney
Two brand spanking new tin type master cylinders will cost you $200 from mini spares UK and get them to send regular post not courrier 20 minutes to install. If you adjust your brakes correctly and bleed well you will always get a rock hard firm peddle. There is never a time they should be spongey, if they are you got it wrong.

steve


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 3:53 pm 
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1275cc
1275cc
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Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2004 6:14 pm
Posts: 4963
Location: A pub near Geelong
i was hvaing so much trouble with my brakes recently, we put a reco MC in, but a few months later everything went to the dog house. we would adjust them up, then 3 or 4 days later i would ahve nothing again. this went on for a couple of weeks, until we decided we were sick of it, so we took the MC out and put a NEW one in. same problem. we had the old one looked and and repaired (i think), and put it back in. still nothing. i was driving so gently on them as well cos i knew they were crap.

so we put the forst MC back in, same problem. we replaced the valve thing, still nothing. we eventually isolated the problem to the front drivers side wheel (dont know how, cos it wasnt the problem) replaced both wheel cylinders, and the hose that goes between them. better, but after a few days i ahd nothing again. so dad and i got out into the shed (all the previous work had been done at a workshop) and had a look. we eventually noticed that there was a big puddle of brake fluid on the ground! so is aid to dad, its obviously leaking from somewhere, get in and pump and ill ahve a listen.

the puddle was in the middle of the car under the firewall. but there are no brae components here! so i traced it back, on the firewall, the dip for the carby. covered in fluid. so i think well it hasto be coming from the master cyl. sure enough, brake fluid everywhere. so i say dad start pumping. and i can hear it getting forced out from somewhere. i have agood look, the problem is the big screw on top of the dual circuit MC wasnt tight and fluid is leaking out.

so kake sure that the screw is tight!!!

lotsof money wasted on doing up a screw. at least i ahve new master cyl and 2 wheel cyl's!!!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 10:57 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2006 11:52 pm
Posts: 966
Location: Bald Hills, Brisbane
moral of the story, it could be a number of things causing brakes to be weak. check your wheel cylinders, flexible lines, solid line connections then check your master


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 9:11 am 
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1275cc
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 9:52 am
Posts: 2027
Location: Clifton Springs, Victoria
Ummm........there's something we should all be aware of - 'stopping' efficiently and properly is better than 'going'.

If you are in the least bit doubtful of something in the brake system, let the professionals fix it.

Got Ribena back yesterday and the brakes have never been so good - just got to touch the pedal and she stops. Got a re-co'ed master cylinder, 4 new front cylinders, 2 new front drums and peace of mind for $750.

We all need to save a dollar and try to do the work ourselves, but when it comes to 'stopping' you have to feel confident and know that you really will 'stop'.

Well, that's my $750 worth anyway - some may disagree :)

See ya

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 9:39 am 
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1275cc
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Joined: Sat Aug 07, 2004 8:41 am
Posts: 2047
Location: Grays Point
I prefer my 9 1/4 inch discs up front thanks :P

My mate will do the conversion drive in drive out for between $800 to $1000 (depending on how many of your old parts are useable).

Look up Truckstuff in the Mini How To section if anyone's interested.

I challenge any other mini to outbrake mine!! (well I'm sure there's some big dollar race minis that could but you know what I mean).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 2:46 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 9:52 am
Posts: 2027
Location: Clifton Springs, Victoria
Yer.........I do question my self spending $750 on my drum brakes when I could have disks for just a few dollars more, but I still would have been up for the cost of a re-co'ed master cylinder so it would have been up round the $1000 mark I would think.

Bye

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