My fitting is made from a valve extension. (Type "Valve extension" into Google Images)

A tyre service that does truck tyres will have them, they are made from brass and you can get someone to silver-solder a hose fitting onto the end.
You could make it from a brass valve cap. You know the valve cap with the tool on the end for removing valves?


Or you can spend up big on something like this...


or how about this one that I just found....


It may not be able to handle the pressure, but it looks good.

You can buy the real thing through Schrader Automotive (The valve people) cost me about $20 in about 1989. They used to be in Riverwood i think

Diecast

I made my fitting from a Schrader brass valve cap, as in Morris 1100's pic above. I soldered it into a brass fitting using a gas torch and soft solder.

Pump is a Mini (of course!) clutch MC. Hoses are just 2x Mini front brake ones and a clutch pipe to join them.
That lever arm is about 3ft long for leverage, it pumps up easy. As a few people on here know.

Next time I'll use a Clubby MC with the big plastic reservoir, easier to keep topped up.

It takes a fair bit of fluid to pump it up if it's real low- the reason I used a MC not a grease gun. no need to undo to refill.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Going soon on ebay...


http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Hydrolastic ... dZViewItem

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One should never skimp on the zip ties.

$650

That would pay for a good few years worth of pump-ups at a carton a time!

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Too many cars, and too little time.

That jumped from $495 to $710 in the last 10 minutes. The pump looks very cool, with that 60's high tech look it wouldn't look out of place in the Turin traffic control centre for the Italian job.

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One should never skimp on the zip ties.

oh well... I might as well post pictures of the one I made too....

I used air hose fittings on either end of the pump bit so I can evacuate as well as pump... my reservoir is a plastic bottle




and I bought one of these...

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

DrMini the grease gun style pump has the top end open so you can keep filling it till ya hearts content this requires two people though, unless like me you fix it to something to hold it upright. I was surprised how little fluid it took to pump up I think it was only a couple of hundred mls per side.

I guess the other added bonus of this style pump is you can carry it where ever you go. Every mini owner I've come across (only a few) with hydro say it needs pumping up. "No worries mate got me pump in the back I'll do it right now for ya". The mini owner's face>

You could be the good samaritan at the next mini cruise

Great variety of pumps people have made. They all look great. Drmini, if you used a valve cap, how does that push in the valve on the car? Thanks again for all the suggestions.
Steve.

I think that you could also get the valve that you are looking for from hydraulics places it looks familiar to the ones that you use to fill up accumulators with nitrogen. You wind in the T-bar to push the center of the valve for it to open. They fit to a normal tyre valve. (not that I have nitrogen in my tyres on the ute of course..... )

It doesn't need to.
The valve on the car just acts as a check valve, KISS principle...
Really, you only need or want that push in feature if you are going to pull a vacuum on the system. And that is really only needed if hydro pipes or bags have been disconnected from each other and all pressure lost.

If I ever need to get air out, I use the same method 99% of the BMC mechanics did back in the 60s- pump up high, leave for a bit, then blow it down FAST by disconnecting the pump, then pushing in the valve on car hard with the metal domed cap. Pressure from the front bags blows the air etc out the back.
Don't get yer face in line with the stuff on its way out...

Then pump up again.

re the ride height, I set it to 3 fingers gap between front tyre and guard.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

SKSSGN,

Where did you get the T connector? What is it and how much did it cost?
Does it have a brand and a part number?
Been looking for one of these for ages. Knew about them but couldn't track one down. Got a few strange looks at some of the hydraulic and A/C places.
I think Parker make something similar but it costs both arms and legs and they take all your blood as well.

Regards
RonR

Hi Ron

As i said in my earlier post, Schrader Automotive have the correct gear for the job. Screw on adaptor + T Bar. I dug out a 1987 Schrader catalogue, the part No. is 2755 - Valve Connector. Schrader (in 1987) was at 2 Jindalee Pl, Riverwood Ph 02 533 4411.

Works perfect with my pump made of old clutch m/c

Cheers

Diecast

yeah, what he said ^^^

blackwoods tracked it down for me, I gave them Schraeder 2755 and they located it - cost about $60

I had the invoice with their part number, but I can't find it... sorry

Simon

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Just to add to the Doc's words about the check valve....
When you are using a master cylinder as a pump the fluid will return back to the cylinder unless you have some sort of non-return (check) valve. (otherwise your brakes would stick on! ) When I first made my pump I made a fancy non-return valve but then I realised that if you do not hold the schrader valve open you can use it as the check valve.

You must bleed all the air out of the hose otherwise you will just compress the air in the hose and it will not blow the valve open.

So if you buy on of the fancy/expensive fittings that presses on the valve to hold it open you will need a check valve.

My homemade pump is so similar to the doc's one it is frightening.