A old bush mechanic told me that aeroguard works way better than WD 40, i was a bit unsure, but i tried it & it works like a treat.

Doogie

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I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

Marc
Okay - lifting it off the subframe and over the motor is okay - its the only way to do it. Do do a thorough check that everything is undone and clear.

Grab a football team. A shell with all the glass, trim, seats etc is truely heavy to lift once you lose the pivot point of the wheels in the rear.

Sit it on the trolley safely before you even try to lift the front over the motor and dont forget to place a big block of wood under the sump to stop the motor and subframe tipping over once the body is clear.

The old railway boys I used to work with say that Inox is better than WD-40 for this task. I'm about to buy a bottle of Inox to try to get a seized pivot pin out of a front suspension upper arm. I've never used it before but old mates say it's the stuff to use. Available at supercrap.
M

Marc has just the rolling body shell. So shouldn't be too much of a problem to lift off the subby.
INOX is way better than WD-40 or CRC

Yeah thanks guys

as TK has said i only have a shell with subbys nothing else is on it no doors, glass or trim or engine
thanks again i will try to move it tommorow with friends hopefully thanks again for the info very helpfull

now whats you advise on how to stop cutting my knuckles and hands lol jk

What the hell , I'll wade into this as well , heat the nut with the oxy and push a plain candle over it while still hot , the wax finds it's way into everything and lubricates it as you unscrew when it's cooled down . Just a bit fiddly is all

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