It is the CV joint that i am working on - i want to replace the boot on it.

Thanks Mike_Byron, i thought of that hitting the CV off before, but can't really do it while the drive shaft is in the car. According to my manual you don't have to drain the oil if you remove the drive shaft from the pot joint. The way i am trying to do it will leave the entire pot joint in the car, and only remove the shaft from the centre of it, so this shouldn't make it leak.

So at the moment i have the hub off the drive shaft and tied up out of the way. Can i just pull on the drive shaft and pull the inner pot joint apart (catching all the pieces)? Do i need to undo either of the ties on the pot joint boot?

Richard
Yes - all you have to do is cut the tie around the pot joint and then pull it towards you. It should just come out of the pot joint holder. It is literally a ball bearing cage, mounted at the end of the drive shaft, that houses six large ball bearing balls. These fit into corresponding grooves in the pot joint holder giving positive drive but allowing for suspension movement. Its a simple and good idea.

Then you are able to play with the shaft containing the CV joints that go into the wheel hub. Sometimes the CV rusts itself onto the drive shaft. Most garages have a CV separating tool that puts pressure onto the holding circlip while they hit it - makes separating them fairly easy. If the cv doesn't come off the driveshaft after a couple of goodwhacks with a FBH toddle off to your garage ans ask them to use their their CV separatingtool on it.

Thanks, that sounds a lot easier than trying to separate the pot joint from the shaft. I have a reasonable sized soft-faced mallet at home, so i will try giving it a whack with that.

I need to clean up the CV and check for damage anyway, because it has been running with no boot for at least 6 months (since i got it) but i have been too slack to fix it, and have had other jobs with higher priorities - like the brakes . i might just replace the CV joint, depending on the cost, because i will have it off the drive shaft and everything

I found my hammer

http://www.kincrome.com.au/web/catalogue/search/product_display.php?partnumber=K090011

hopefully I won't need it for this job anymore, would probably destroy the CV joint if i hit it with this, but it will be useful when i have to drift out the pin to replace the seal on my rod change gearshift. I used a clawhammer for this last time and it took ages.

I find the best way is hold the driveshaft vertical in one hand, CV at bottom- and the BFH in the other.
Give the CV a smart whack downwards. Turn it 180" and repeat if necessary.
Watch yer toes...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I haven't got around to doing anything more yet bcos i couldn't be stuffed.

But i was wondering, if i pull the pot joint apart, i should keep all the bearing balls and the inner and outer parts of the pot joint in the same orientation and everything as when it comes apart if i can, shouldn't I? seeing as they are wearing parts.

It's not that critical. Most people manage to drop the balls on the floor and have to chase them anyway.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

or lose them! and have to put everything on hold until they buy a new ONE

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Josh, really you should buy 6 of em... a set. So they are all the same size

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

OK. i have fixed it all up now and put the driveshaft back in the car. i managed to get the inner pot joint apart and back together without losing my balls or dropping them on the floor and i kept them in order as well

I also torqued up the nuts in the centre of the wheel to the right torque. I measured the torque on one of them (using the torque wrench) when taking it apart and it was less than 10Nm when it should be 83

I just have one question - How critical is the water-shield that is supposed to be installed on the outside of the outer CV (and inside the wheel hub) to stop water getting in the wheel bearings? I don't have one on that side of the car, so should i buy one and install it or doesn't it matter?

These were fitted to all UK cars, but most Oz cars never had them.
No big deal when it doesn't snow.. or rain even.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yeah, i figured it might be a UK thing