If you haven't got it sorted by the weekend I'll come over Saturday late morning PM me your address

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

I kept the starter motor out to see the clutch plate against the flywheel.... I hope that is where it all sits ......

Now gus this is going to seem like one of the most stupidest questions - because I probably know what it it just not the correct name for it - A Clevis Pin (What is the clevis pin?)

Matt I think I have stuffed up a little too on the stop clearance - i took the spring off and measured 20 thou from just the sitting/stationary arm position - not pulled back (bearing on clutch).....

Thanks so much Wombat - that would be much appreciated I will PM now
Your help is much appreciated guys.
Cheers Gerard

If you need a hand give me a yell and i can come around as i'm away from work for a while.
How was the clutch before you had all these problems?
With the clutch adjustment wind the nut out so that it is holding the bearing onto the clutch and try it from there. Pump the pedal and if you can just or even not get it into gear it's hydraulic problem.
Also check to see if your cover plate is flush the whole way round as it will add to any existing problem if it's not.
I also have a spare new slave cylinder and hose if you want to test.

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Hey Nav
Wombat is on his way over late saturday morning, thank you for the offer, we will see how we go. (Oh I wish I was away from work at the moment too - 6 weeks to go (but 12 weeks worth of work to do tho))
Since the last time I replaced the throwout bearing 5 weeks earlier I have not had a problem with the clutch - even if I do pump the pedal I still cannot get it into gear, housing plate seems flush all around, and mt I will get back to you about the slave cylinder.
Cheers Gerard

Gerard/Nav - that spare slave cylinder and hose might be a good idea if all else fails on Saturday - Any chance of calling round about 10:30-11?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

The clevis pin is the pin that the clutch arm pivots on, there is also one at the top of the arm that attatches to the slave cylinder rod. There is another in the cabin where the clutch pedal attatches to the rod in the underneath of the master cylinder!



This could be a big part of the problem. If set this way, you probably aren't even coming close to having the beearing on the clutch diaphram when you push the pedal.

Reset this clearance and try again!!

(while you have the spring off, take the arm out, check the bearing carrier moves well, chech each of the clevis pins for wear, and even take some pics to post here if unsure if 'worn'. Grease it all up well when reassembling!)

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

Cheers Wombat & Nav & Matt
I have to take some photos at the gym first thing in the morning and I should be home some time between 10 and 11 - I also found a spare slave cylinder at home on a motor stored in the corner along with clevis pins (thanks Matt) - I Will try setting the clutch the clutch pulled out - I do know that the mechanic that helped me put the throwout in last time did not set the clutch in an engaged position.

Cheers Guys

I can cruise around anytime as i'm not at work
I'll need Gerards address again though.
Anything else you can think of let me know as i may have a spare to try.

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Pull on the arm with your hand, when setting the clearance, do not 'engage' the clutch (by pushing down on the pedal).

You won't be able to 'engage' the clutch by hand, just move the bearing so it is touching the diaphram end boss. Then with the clearance set, it moves the bearing back just a little, so it isn't touching until the pedal is pressed!

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

Just so you all understand ... the fact with the "Over throw" nuts is that you """DO NEED THEM""",,, don`t believe """ANYONE"" who says that you don`t, because that is just crap!!!!!

They are there for a number of reasons & if you choose not to fit & have them adjusted correctly then you can possibly cause MAJOR engine damage

& Kev,,, (& anyone else who cares to listen & learn) when adjusting them, you need to manually pull the arm to it`s full extent (I use a big crow bar)...not just put the foot on the clutch to move it to "That" extent when setting up the overthrow stopper nut. The travel produced by the hydaulic system & all the lack of "enough" travel in most minis will surely be setting the nuts up in the wrong spot.

The whole idea here is to set it all up so that the "overthrow/stopper nut" is one flat more adjusted than the arm is actually physically manually cappable of travelling,,,that is to say that you need to set the stopper nut so that the arm cannot actually reach it`s full manual extent by simply adjusting the nut at one flat further than full extent,,, this helps stop the clutch "Over throwing" & pushing TOO much on the centre main cap of the engine block.

One example here would be for instance """IF""" your clutch plate friction material decided to part company with the metal part of the clutch plate (not very common these days with the latest bonding & materials tho) but this friction material could "double" up on the plate in a spot & not allow full diss-engagement ,,,, then you`d want to fell like you need to pump the pedal up to achieve full diss-engagment understandabley,,, now "IF" the over throw nuts were not fitted &/or incorrectly adjusted, then you could quite easilly have a situation where you will then be simply hydraulically heaving on the crank thrusts soooo dam hard that you can actually snap the center main cap & or it`s bolts... & yes, that is MAJOR engine damage to say the least.

another would be if some dork fitted a brake master cyl (with a slow return valve) instead of the correct clutch master cyl,,,or maybe a piece of crap got caught in the line & stopped the clutch hydraulics returning fully etc etc etc,,, then you`d have a simple "PUMP UP" situation,,,which is really what you "DONT" want with no over throw nuts fitted.

now there are quite a few other very very good reasons for thiese nuts to be fitted & set correctly,,,if you choose to listen to someone whos says that you don`t need them,,,well don`t come crying to me with broken off centre main cap/bolts etc.

Please listen & learn & take notice & actually understand what i`m saying here.

you have all been warned!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gerard,,,if you still have dificulties with setting up your clutch properly, give me a yell & we can sort it for you in a flash,,,probly only half an hour to an hours work & you`ll be laughing , Ok???

easy-peasy

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Cheers Matt
I am hearing u - Thank you for the advice
I gave your dad a call the other night and he gave me almost the same advice you are telling me - crow bar and 1 flat onwards
If we still have problems after the weekend I will keep in contact
Cheers Gerard

you got it,,,but fix everything else & make it all work properly & leave the over throw nuts till last,,,as said, they`re a fail safe devise more than anything, they don`t actually make the clutch work any better or worse, only "CAN": make things worse if not fitted,,,or fitted incorrectly

cheers & keep us informed of what you find, my bet is simply not enough throw/travel &/or poor starting point for the clutch arm

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Matt you got it in one - Nav came round today (and a very big thank you to Nav) with a bent throwout arm which has worked a treat - just not enough travel in the arm and I happen to bend the ball on the end a little of the new one I got (after it cracked last time). Matt (or anyone) would you happen to have a good bent Arm that I could buy to replace Nav's?

Cheers Gerard - And thank you to everyone for excellent advice again it is really appreciated

To be correct its a factory bent one which pushes the slave cyl further back into its bore. Mad Matt if you remember it's the one off that motor you sold me.
I have a feeling it is still hydraulic related, just not a problem rather than a flaw in the system. When you push the pedal it forces x amount of fluid into the slave. As the piston moves down the bore more fluid is required to fill the bore as it goes, and would only be exaggerated with air in there. I could be wrong though.
I had the same kind of issue with NAV after I replaced the clutch. everything was working ok as the master and slave cyl were rebuilt and tested before re fitting. All I did was weld on about 1/2" to the pin which pushed the piston back to the start of the bore and the problem dissapeared, no problems since either.


Minis go figure

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