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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 2:32 pm 
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ET 13.457 seconds , OH YEAH !!!!
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Driving at high revs will not load the box..

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 4:11 pm 
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998cc
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How much are late model rover engines and where do you get them from?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 4:32 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Victoria, Ballarat
So because the gearbox and engine share the same oil that means those fragments of metal would have gone through my entire engine, and if thats the case its going to be all through the head, and what not... thats sounding very much like a FUBAR engine as well.... The engine itself was not making any noises out of the blue, sounded perfect... if the bearings and oilpump were as bad as this guys telling me wouldnt it have been making all sorts of crazy noises..
Starting to wonder if this Mech is trying to keep it there for more work or something.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 4:39 pm 
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Postally Verbose
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Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 9:12 am
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Location: Northern NSW
Not neccesarily , like I said about my motor that chewed a bearing and sent the metal through everything scored all the bearings badly , it still ran well and had reasonable oil pressure but if it had been just put back in with new main bearing thrust's I would have had to have pull it all out again in a month or so to replace the bearings . I'm sure the Doc or someone can help with the specifics but in my case the filings either got through the oil filter due to a failure or blocked the filter and bypassed it (was a screw on filter but on a south african block where it screwed directly onto the block) but it made a mess of the bearings . If you're worried about your mech trying to get extra work out you , arrange to be there when he checks the bearings and see for yourself if they are bad or not .

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 4:41 pm 
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1360cc
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What symptoms made you put in to checked in the first place? Have you seen the filings or has he only described them on the phone?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 6:17 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sat Jan 28, 2006 9:38 pm
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Location: Geelong, Victoria
Draff wrote:
Also gave Link Automotive a call this morning to have a chat and see what they had to say, they told me that the wheels arent the problem either, how it was driven and not changing the oil enough was what did it. So now i have 2 stories... One saying its the wheels, and if thats the case i then have to replace the whole breaking system cause its got groved disc breaks on the front and 13" are the only things that will fit over them, not to mention new gearbox, oilpump and the engine work... If its not the wheels i can just do the engine, gear box and make sure the rest is all good..

Ah the joys of cars.....


I would certainly belive Link, Peter and Brian both know their stuff. If you are going to get your gearbox rebuilt you can trust Link.

If the guy you bought the car off was mor of a hoon than an enthusiast it may have explained it. I remeber when i bought my engine the guy had flogged it a bit. Even with the crosspin diff the diff pins were well worn and had to get new ones made. The bottom line is the mini drive train isn't built for hoons and burnouts.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 6:38 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Gulgong
Look - the size of the wheels did not cause this problem - It simply didn't ... period.

Now lets move forward- you have a fairly standard clubby type mini. I presume it has a rod change gearbox and the motors are fairly abundant (except when you want one *lol*)

It depends what you expect out of the car - is it you pride and joy show car or going to be show car ???? Or, is it a car you love but just a daily or weekend driver.

You can respond to this in one of two ways - if its a show car and you want originality then the motor can be rebuilt - very little change out of $1000 and the gearbox can also be rebuilt- again little change out $1000. That equals $2000 and we havn't yet started looking at other safety issues like rust, brakes etc.

The second way is not worry about the present gearbox or engine - they are rooted. Scounge around for a going power plant - someone will have one !!!! Swap it in and drive it. It will either be a lemon or reasonable but take the chance anyway - if its okay then enjoy the car for what it is.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:46 pm 
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Die Die Die!!
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Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2006 6:29 pm
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Mini Mike wrote:
How much are late model rover engines and where do you get them from?


i got my 998 rover for $1000

but 998 frontcuts are $3500 including evrything (panels, aircond, engine, disc brakes)
1.3 efi frontcuts are $5,500 i beleive including the EFI tank...

brickworx racing in South Australia.. are the prices i mentioned

http://www.brickworx.com.au/


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 10:20 am 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Thu Aug 17, 2006 10:59 pm
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Location: Victoria, Ballarat
OK, i have got myself another gearbox from a 75' that i had sitting in the shed that i got a while back, gearbox seems to be ok in that, their both remote shifts so that should just bolt straight in correct? If so ill get the engine flushed, make sure its all smick and cross my fingers that it doesnt happen again!


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 11:32 am 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 7:26 am
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Location: Christchurch New Zealand
Draff wrote:
OK, i have got myself another gearbox from a 75' that i had sitting in the shed that i got a while back, gearbox seems to be ok in that, their both remote shifts so that should just bolt straight in correct? If so ill get the engine flushed, make sure its all smick and cross my fingers that it doesnt happen again!


Hi Draff,
Flushing the engine may not do the trick. You need to be sure metal isn't trapped in the soft lead bearing shells etc (if so, they will need to be replaced). If there is quite a bit of metal lodged in the shells, the engine will need a complete strip to thoroughly clean it and the shells will need replaced. If you ignore this fact, you are likely to have a stuffed engine in the near future and any metal from it will also go straight into the gearbox you've just fitted.

You really need to think of your engine and gearbox as one unit, they share the same oil and debris.

Regards
Al


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 11:40 am 
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1275cc
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Location: Gulgong
Don't forget that this strip and clean will also include the oil galleries that run along inside the block.

Really this engine needs a chemical clean and flush to be sure. Unfortunately, once you strip down the engine, you will find many others things that need replacing. It can certainly be fully reco'ed and then you know where you stand but a cheaper option is hunt out a second hand motor / power plant combination.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 11:50 am 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Thu Aug 17, 2006 10:59 pm
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Location: Victoria, Ballarat
The engine itself had a full reco 11,600kms ago or so, so its still pretty freash still.. But your right ill get the engine all done and hope that its still all good, do the gearbox and i should be back on the go. Also to what you said Al, ill have the mech check the engine over and make sure its all good, id rather not have a busted engine as well as gearbox!

Cheers for all the help guys ill let you know how it goes from here and how much it will cost!


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