Reread some posts, so you are say there is a little 1/4" thick plate that sits on top of the cone towers when you bolt them up? I have notice that my studs taper inwards in other words to a thinner shaft after about a 1/4" so if the plates are there then they would probably meet up. Picture matt running around like an idiot trying to find a spacer

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

Sorry, totally Off-topic and almost irrelevant, but can one of you Toyo-mini guys post or email me some pics of your GEARBOX ? Preferable separated form an engine, but either or.....

I'm having bad thoughts again........

Basically, i need a gearbox that will bolt up to "another engine" (Adaptor plates are Ok..) and still be FWD, compact, 5 speed and strong(ish) .........

Please ?

J

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sorry james this is the best ive got, what engine you want to put it on?? dont think it is possible to do an a series



Id be looking at the 3 cylinder charade boxs, there tiny and heaps of them at the wreckers.

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs

Not a Bad shot !

nope, not an a-series.....

What sort of torque / hp would the charade boxes be rated at ?

I'm thinking 12A .........

Maybe 10A, but where a 10A will fit, a 13B might too ...............

J

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So you are saying that the hydro bag or the rubber cone are offset relative to the bulkhead holes yeah? Never pulled a hydro down but i will take a guess. The hole in the centre of the top of the tower on the dry frame is for the threaded end of the spring compressor to go through and screw into the thread of the cone. Thus it has to line up with the centreline of the cone. You don't need to do this with the hydro bag, so the only reason for a hole is to let the pipe through, and thus it probably lines up with the appropriate point on the hydro bag.

are you fabricating a dry or wet frame for the starlet ?

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

Mick the car originally had a hydro subbie, I fabricated my starlet frame using a dry subbie. I am going to compare the subbie I used for the starlet frame against my pristine dry frame and see if it is different. I have a feeling it isn't going to be. I am going to have a muck around with this space thing to see if that makes any difference.

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

Dont think the charade will handle any power they have like 40hp engines. haha.
I have heard that mitsubishi cordia boxs are the best for fwd rotors. There was a fwd rotor made in japan, but they are as rare as starlet gt mini's

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs

My original mini matic shell had hyrdo frames. Installed the manual 1275A+ in it an had to make some modication to engine mounts I believe. Then changed to dry frames and there were no modications required so I'm sure all the mounting points are the same. Man, I have all figures, toes, arms and legs crossed for you that you haven't got a Friday job on the subframe you've started on.

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

So once you find your spacers slip em over the studs the offer up the sub-frame to the body (sounds rather sensual ...don't it! )....it fits??

NO??

Well take some measurements an drill the holes where they need to be!??? Some metal could be added (by welding) if you want it to be a snug fit (this seems a little butcherous though).

OR

Start again with a another subbie and graft most of what you have fabricated onto that???

Best of Luck, Mick

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"Show me the Mini!"

Just make sure that the car, and the dry subframe that you are using for reference has not been bent Sometimes it is the simplest explanation......

If it was me, i would make a jig that mimics the bulkhead, stiff as all hell and mount it to the top of the towers before i cut anything off or welded anything new onto them. Anything you do to minimise the warping from the welder makes a huge difference to the end fit

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

When I put dry frames into my Cooper S the holes didn't line up but after a bit of persuasion it went in. I am not sure if the frame was bent or the if the car was bent but it went together in the end.

The holes were about ¼" out of line but the frame is flexible

Went and got some studs from local Mini Parts supplier (Classic Motoring speak to Warren). Anyway bent studs very slighly outwards, got ratstail file bent stuff etc etc. Finally got two of the studs high enough to tighten fully up. And I am sure that if I can get 2 I can get four. The weirdest thing is that the frame I made is the same width as my pristine dry cone subframe. The measurement between the studs on that one is 27 and 1/8 inches? There you go anyway almost mission accomplished! Here's a photo. Also thanks to all for advice etc much appreciated...

Cheers

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au