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 Post subject: Re: brakes
PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 2:51 am 
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1360cc
1360cc

Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 4:36 pm
Posts: 7673
mini-dunger wrote:
beanie, the supplier you mentioned sells bolt up conversions for 1200bucks

what would you recommend willy?


i think beanie would know how much the place he works at sells stuff for.

the only problem is a lot of mini people dont want to lose their 10" wheels..


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 Post subject: Re: disc brake conver
PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 5:47 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39755
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
david rosenthal wrote:
mick
if you want to go to taper roller brgs. instead of angular contact[std brgs.] drmini is right. the hubs are about .010" different in depth of brg housing. if you want i can give you some spacers to suit taper rollers to get correct pre-load on brgs. you can contact me on my email.

Often I find the hubs are worn in the centre web, then preload is non-existent and it's all sloppy with new bearings and proper spacer.
It's important that the endfloat is measured accurately and the spacer thickness reduced by the SAME amount.
The 60lb/ft torque on a drum type CV is not sufficient to allow meaningful preload- if spacer is made too thin it will be loose on assembly, when torqued up. Add a few miles and the nut will come loose and the bearings can spin and wear ther drive flange. :x

When torqued up 60lb/ft to test, with no seals in, there should be no bearing rock, nor any drag. Then undo and put the 2 seals in. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:39 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 9:35 am
Posts: 96
Location: NZ
Yeah
I have had that problem on 2 of my minis, with the centre web of the hub worn.
Too bad with the latest type of bearings that come without the spacer that minispares sells.
No spacer to machine to add the preload.

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 Post subject: Re: disc brake conver
PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:14 pm 
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1360cc
1360cc
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Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 11:32 am
Posts: 12390
Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
david rosenthal wrote:
mick
if you want to go to taper roller brgs. instead of angular contact[std brgs.] drmini is right. the hubs are about .010" different in depth of brg housing. if you want i can give you some spacers to suit taper rollers to get correct pre-load on brgs. you can contact me on my email.


Thanks Dave...noted for when I reco my hubs...Cheers, Mick

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:19 pm 
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1360cc
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Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:01 pm
Posts: 6844
Location: Cairns, Nrth QLD
Just getting back to the topice of price for disc brake conversion.....Im currently undertaking the honda civic conversion... So far ive been slogged $110 for 2 used calipers (rip off i know), $110 for cutting 2 backing plates (cut with water jet) and $85 for 2 new RDA Rotors. $305 so far....

I still have to get the drive flanges machined, rotors re-drilled, put a kit through the calipers, buy brake pads and get everything powder coated... So Im expecting that once its all done ill b around the $500 mark id say.......

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Last edited by Hanra on Thu Feb 15, 2007 9:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: discs
PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 8:57 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Thu Jun 08, 2006 9:34 pm
Posts: 2372
Location: Adelaide
so If i can get em certified for about 200$ bucks I would have a pretty sweet set up. Do you think they would be better overall that 8.4's?

Thanks Hanra

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 9:03 pm 
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1360cc
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Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:01 pm
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Location: Cairns, Nrth QLD
I think the honda conversion can b done a lot cheaper then wat its costing me.. Unfortunatly none of the wreckers up here have honda parts, except for the place where im getting mine.

I think its a rip off for 2nd hand calipers off a wreck.... $55 ea!!!! They wanted $44 ea for 2nd rotors as well, i can get em new for cheaper then that!!!!

Plus the backing plate could be cut with a plasma cutter instead of water jet, which would be cheaper, and then simply painted instead of powder coating.

As for performance compared to 8.4's..... I honestly have no idea!!! Im sure plenty of people here will have a comment on which will b better.

Im not sure you can get them certified? That would be a good question for an engineer!!!!!

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