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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 12:49 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 6:31 pm
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Location: Elwood, Melbourne
When I replaced the split pins in mine with R clips, it got to the point where I drove down to Bunnings, bought the smallest, longest drill bit I could find, attached it to drill and just blunt the crap out of the bit till the pin was pushed through (but still being careful to not damage the hole diameter).

Took 20 mins, most of which was spent bending the manouvering the drill bit into place from weird angles.

Shard


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 2:22 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2004 1:17 pm
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Location: Adelaide
Over ten years ago I just put a high tensile bolt in and chucked the clevis pin.. Bit of Loctite for the nut and it's stayed in place ever since. Took a few minutes.

smithy


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 2:32 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:08 pm
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Location: Belconnen, Canberra
smithy wrote:
Over ten years ago I just put a high tensile bolt in and chucked the clevis pin.. Bit of Loctite for the nut and it's stayed in place ever since. Took a few minutes.

smithy


I imagine that it'll be a real ning nong to get off if you ever want to replace your brake or clutch master cylinder.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 3:02 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Austin850 wrote:
smithy wrote:
Over ten years ago I just put a high tensile bolt in and chucked the clevis pin.. Bit of Loctite for the nut and it's stayed in place ever since. Took a few minutes.

smithy


I imagine that it'll be a real ning nong to get off if you ever want to replace your brake or clutch master cylinder.



This although 'fixing' the problem leads to other hassles. The clevis pin is supposed to be the wear part in this relationship. When you throw in a bolt (a hi tensile bolt is even worse) it elongates the holes in the pushrod. This makes the peddle rattle as well as meaning there will be a take up gap. It sounds horrible when it does and it's pretty much unfixable too.

It's a case of the 150 dollars master cylinder being sacrificed to save the 1 dollar clevis pin.

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Last edited by Mick on Thu Aug 23, 2007 4:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 4:30 pm 
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1098cc
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i just used anut and bolt for mine didnt take long at all.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 7:25 pm 
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The problem with using a bolt there is the threads on it chew up the clevis holes in no time flat. Gives you slack in the linkage, which is not real helpful- particularly on the clutch.
As Mick says, it's a bad move. I got to fix one like that once.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 7:44 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2004 10:32 pm
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A clevis pin is designed to be in sheer.
A bolt is designed to be in tension.

Do not try to swap them the other way, it may look fine but it is not very clever.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 7:48 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Athelstone- Adelaide
Make sure you put some never seize on the clevis pin - rusted and seized ones are a nightmare :?

Patience is the key.

Matt

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 9:15 pm 
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Some wd-40 or the likes sprayed up around the clevis pins every now and then doesn't go astray either.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 9:20 pm 
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1275cc
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I broke a clutch pin on my way to MDU - no pedal at the roundabout adjacent to Maccas at Panthers. Dont know why I had a brand new one in the toolbox - but took me all of 5 mins to do. R clips are good but you must get the right sized one to go on as if it is too big, it will roll over the end of the pin and kerplunk!! Its gone again.

Another bit of advice - and it is a PITA, probably not the best to have the hole end facing back in towards the brake pedal - there can be the chance of the pin jamming against the brake clevis and jamming either the clutch or the brake or both - same day at MDU...lol

I am lucky as I have hobbit hands - all perfect for working on minis...dropped spindles in the gearbox are not a problem...lol

Hooroo

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 11:41 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Has you got them hairy hobbit feet as well?

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2007 10:53 am 
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matt van'74 wrote:
Make sure you put some never seize on the clevis pin - rusted and seized ones are a nightmare :?

Patience is the key.

Matt


Ihad to pull my whole pedal box out the first time because of this :evil:

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2007 5:36 pm 
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Well Davo.........have you done it yet???? My Mrs says that she will come and do it for $50 or a nice big vodka and raspberry :lol:

Hooroo

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 8:58 am 
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848cc
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No problems with the thread on the bolt chewing out the holes because I used a bolt that had a long enough plain shank so that wouldn't happen. As far as geting the nut off, no concerns there for me. Loctite comes in different grades. Not all are "on for life". It's just a matter of picking the correct one. I suppose I could have used a nyloc nut but I had a few different Loctites but no nuts. (Does that sound as strange to you as it does to me ?)

smithy


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 6:22 pm 
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smithy wrote:
No problems with the thread on the bolt chewing out the holes because I used a bolt that had a long enough plain shank so that wouldn't happen. As far as geting the nut off, no concerns there for me. Loctite comes in different grades. Not all are "on for life". It's just a matter of picking the correct one. I suppose I could have used a nyloc nut but I had a few different Loctites but no nuts. (Does that sound as strange to you as it does to me ?)

smithy
A bolt is not designed to be used in this way. It is supposed to have a clevis pin.

A high tensile bolt is more likely to break under this type of use than a normal clevis pin.

I have a great idea! I can't fit the correct part for my brakes, so I will just chuck something else in there. :roll:


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