So you are hinting that the pulsar dizzy "may" be OK already?

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I'm hinting that with unleaded fuel in most A series it's not too bad, and even better once the advance is limited to 10°.
For a performance A series with modified head, cam and carbs you want all the advance in by 4000 rpm anyway. I don't think the Pulsar bobweights & springs (ie advance curve) are too bad.

Many Mini race motors out there including Keith Calver's run NO mechanical advance, their plates are welded up. I'm not suggesting that for the road, just making a point...

The trick to make a Pulsar (or a Lucas) dizzy work properly is to set the timing at the maximum advance point, not static or at idle. This means finding out what total advance the motor gives best power at, then putting a timing mark for that on the crank pulley, and adding a pointer.
You then rev the engine with a timing light attached, until total advance is reached, and rotate dizzy until the mark and pointer align.
If you do it this way, a Pulsar dizzy will NOT give you pinging, detonation etc.
What shortening the advance curve does is give MORE advance at low rpm, which pulls the low speed torque up.

Most A series like 28-32° total advance. My 1360 runs a bit more, as the combustion chamber shape is more like a hemi than heart shaped.

<edit> typo

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Good question, I don't know when the factory brought electronic ignition on line. I got mine from Brickworx, I'm sure he would know.

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One should never skimp on the zip ties.

From http://www.123ignition.com.au/
Price here is A$550.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Drmini
I have a few D4R83 dizzy here in NZ that I have checked the messurements of the centrifugal advance plates.
D4R83-30 and D4R83-36 both have 14 stamped below RH slot and + 5 stamped above slot the messurements are 10.35 and 9.85 on one of them and 10.40 and 10.01 on the other. How much should I be reducing the slot by?
Also have found another Pulsar electronic Dizzy out of an N12, these are numbered D4R80-08 these seem to work OK with out change, but will be pulling one down to check out the plate.
Rgds Paul

If you read my sticky post `how to put a Pulsar dizzy in yer Mini', in the Mini Mods forum, I gave dimensions in there, see the last few pages.
There are 3 different plates used, they have different slot lengths.

I've heard a D4R80 runs better (has less centrifugal advance) but we never got em...

<edit>
here's my dimensions from that post for a D4R83-
"The D4R83 plate slots are shorter and angled more, I make both 1.5mm shorter to get 10* advance, as they have a much bigger offset angle.
For a D4R83 with the slot lengths of 8.9 and 9.3mm, I make them exactly 1.5mm shorter at 7.4 and 7.8mm.
<edit>
NOTE there is another advance plate in some of these D4R83s, it's marked +15 and 14.5. It has less of a slot angle than the one above. Slot lengths here are 9.5 and 9.8mm. Make these both 1.75mm shorter to get 10*. Lengths will then be 7.75 and 8.05mm.

Precision is needed for this work, don't attempt it if you don't have the skills."

<edit 2> for D4R85-
One of the D4R85 slots is 10.3mm and the other is 10.7, the slot is 5.0mm wide with a 2.5mm radius at outer end. I make them each exactly 2.0mm shorter at 8.3 and 8.7mm.. WELD THE OUTER END OF SLOTS ONLY.

Yours appears different. You may need to do what I did and mark out 0° and 10° marks inside the body with a protractor, lock the shaft at bottom, then see what size drill bits you need to fit in the end of the slot slot to limit the plate movenent to 10° max.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.