and something else not mentioned, when converting to an electric pump, you'll have solid metal lines to contend with going in to and out of the pump... and you're best off removing it from the engine, so you'll need a little blanking plate to put over the hole

I wholeheartedly support concerting to electric, but study and understand the work required before you start - the car could be off the road for a week while you mess around with it!

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Trickiest part of my leccy pump conversion was bipassing the mech pump while the extractors and twin carbies were still on.

I've got a higher PSI pump mounted in the rear subframe with a pressure regular under the bonnet. Dial it in to what you want... in my case, 2.5psi.

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I have converted to a solid state electric pump in car... Simply stating that a mechanical pump WORKS FINE. Graham's 1400 LS Monster runs a std morris mechanical pump.

One reason to convert to electric is you can install a cut off switch

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

If you know what your doing you can remove the mechanical one, put a blanking plate on, install an electric one and wire it in in under 2 hours.

It is NOT that hard. The hardest part is getting your hands in behind the engine and undo-ing the bolts.

Whats wrong with your mechanical one?

Just FYI I installed a Holley Blue pump and have a rising rate regulator in mine (obviously different because I have turbocharged mine)

It IS easier if you remove Carby, Intake, Exhaust Manifold... but you dont HAVE to... its just more fiddly with them in the way.

Another way is to remove the top engine steadies, and pull the motor forward to give some extra room to work with.

Peter.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

Hmmmmm, i am at the moment leaning towards replacing the mechanical one. If there is no definitive increase in reliability then it is the mechanical one. I am replacing it with a friend who does have long fingers and is a mechanic. I will take the advice of loosening the top steady bar and pulling the engine forward.

The car is currently at my cousins place, we have been putting it together for a while now. He tells me when he has tried to get it started recently the only way to turn it over and keep it running is to get fuel directly into the carby, he is positive that its the pump.

The engine was bought used but runs fine, i have replaced most of the ancillaries but forgot about the fuel pump.

If anyone has any suggestions to other causes i am all ears but i do understand that there could be millions or reasons but that would be best left for another post.

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I'm guaranteed to break something every time, but there's nothing like getting under the bonnet and having a go!

i did it with every thing still on the car... wasnt fun but i did it...
how many types of pump are there

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Sounds like fuel pump, or blocked hoses/pipes/fittings.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

The mechanical is a bit a of a b!tch to replace... but overall not that difficult...
Make sure the outlet line on your new mehcanical pump is oriented similarly to the existing one. I put on a new mech pump on my 76 998 clubby and the outlet line directed straight at the exhaust - not cool....

Secondly make sure the blanking/boss plate that you get with the new one is the same thickness as the old one - it will stuff out your new pump very quickly if they're different...

You don't need to loosen anything else, althouh loosening the engine strut might make things easier.

Make sure that you haven't got a vacuum in the line before replacing the pump too... my clubby is really good a getting a bit of air in the line if left around for too long... and the mech pump just doesn't deal with air at all! You can fix that by getting the line into the carby off and sucking on it - just try not to swallow... it really isn't pleasant!! Then try to get it back on the carby without air running back down the line...

I've had nothing but issues with the mech one i bought and thats why i'd go to electric... but now i've decided to take the car off the road and make a project out of it, i'm not bothering (possible 4EFTE conversion.... or something else...).

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Answer the Question....
BUT always Question the Answer

is there such thing as a pump that is designed to suck? other than the OEM one?

I have to change mine, and I want to mount it in the engine bay... (dont ask its a long story)

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The reason for putting electric pumps down the back is so that it is not subject to fuel vaporisation in hot weather, because it is gravity fed.
eg. Morris Minors have an SU electric pump mounted high up the front, under the bonnet. In hot weather this can give trouble- the vacuum present in the supply line from the pump allows the fuel to `boil' to vapour, and then she no go..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Whilst we're on the whole fuel thing, my exhaust is coming out of the standard place under the car, 6 inches from the fuel pump and filter, and in the engine compartment, I have bent up some 1/4 inch tube bent up to go from the lower fuel tube, up to the firewall, along behind the carb and round to the bowl. Again, it passes within just a few inches of the extractors.

Should I try and re-rout things to get as far away as possible, or come up with some sort of heat shield?

What do other people do?

The muffler down the back doesn't get real hot and there's plenty airflow around it so no prob.
I ran a piece of steel pipe straight up the firewall from where the original ended near the pump, it's miles away from exhaust.
Up top it has a bit of fuel hose and a filter before the carb.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.