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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 7:48 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
mini-dunger wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
mini-dunger wrote:
Re the starter motor, I am assuming that once the coils wired up I just have to connect a jumper lead to the ( - ) terminal then to the block somewhere. Then get the other lead connect it to the (+) and stike the solenoid in the appropriate spot with it?

If you have the starter solenoid on the motor, connect the + cable to the `battery' terminal on it.
To start it, touch a wire from there to the start lug on the side of the solenoid (where the red/white wire goes).
Or you could just stick an old screwdriver across the 2 big terminals like us bush mechanics do. :lol:

BTW you need decent jumper leads if that's what you are using- the usual ones from Supercrap etc are flat out passing 25A, let alone the 200A+ that a starter draws. :lol:

I use 24mm² welding cable and 300A earth clamps. 8)


So If I run a big fat lead to one of the terminals on the starter, would I be able run a wire from each post to a switch? If I do this will I need to use big fat wires like the main live wire to the starter or does not much current flow through the "actuation" switch?

Also would it be at all possible to run any current from the alternator to the battery? I am thinking that running a motor would eventually kill the battery? Or do I need regulators and such so its not worth it?

thanks all

If building a test bench, I'd put a Mini starter solenoid on there and wire the starter circuit as per original.
I don't bother, nor do I hook up radiator system, as all I want to do is run a motor for a minute or so every year or so, so the rust monster doesn't jam things up inside.
So, I hook the coil up from the battery + terminal, using an alligator clip on the end. Unhook it and she stops.
Not worth the bother of connecting the alternator really. Motor will probably run for a day with no charging. If you must spin it, you won't hurt it provided it has NO WIRES attached. :wink:


Okie dokie, I will leave the alternator off.I have a radiator because I am basically running it in. I will refer to the user manual re. solenoid wireing as I have nfi.

thanks doc

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 8:06 am 
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I would maybe start it on the floor to see if it goes, but why bother running it in there. You can run the cam/lifters in, sure, but after that the motor needs some load, to bed the rings in.
I'd just do it all in the car.... save hooking it up twice.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 5:47 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
I would maybe start it on the floor to see if it goes, but why bother running it in there. You can run the cam/lifters in, sure, but after that the motor needs some load, to bed the rings in.
I'd just do it all in the car.... save hooking it up twice.


I reakon I have done everything right but I am not totally sure. So the longer I run it outside of the car the more chance something if anything will go wrong. Plus oil leaks and such that may need fixing. I reakon I over tightened the timing cover gasket so it will probly leak.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 4:28 pm 
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I have set the wiring up as per the instructions above...

I have power to the coil. - and +

the blue wire from the dizzy is on the -

The black and white wire is on the +

Yet I am getting no spark at the plugs?

Possible reasons?

1 rotor button and cap are pretty worn..

2 Dud leads( tried a couple )

3 Internal fault with dizzy?

4 Dud coil ( i tested another so its ok)

At first I thought it may be timing but it wouldnt fire at all so I checked for sparks.......there was none!

So I am basically left with

options 1 and 3

is there any more anyone can think of?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 4:50 pm 
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I have done some reading I reakon I will pop a test light between the 2 wires that go to the dizzy . One may be broken as makka said in a post somewhere :D

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 11:44 pm 
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well I have power at the - and + on the coil and I have power at both wires on the dizzy.


Could it be a bad earth from the battery to the block? I just have it in a bolt in the transfer case.

The first dizzy I tried got quite warm so I am guessing that means its working?


ummm

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 12:17 am 
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Is there anyway I can check the primary lead comming from the coil?

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Yep Mokes are ugly - but Moke owners know that. Its like ugly women - she may be a dog but you know your going to get some :wink:


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 5:12 am 
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Which way up did you put the star thingy under the rotor? Numbers on it should be on top. As it rotates anti-clockwise, the steep side leaves the pole pieces.
If flipped over, it won't work... :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 7:43 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Which way up did you put the star thingy under the rotor? Numbers on it should be on top. As it rotates anti-clockwise, the steep side leaves the pole pieces.
If flipped over, it won't work... :lol:


I had no idea there was 2 ways to put the friggin thing on :D

Why do these whacky car companys build stuff that goes on both ways? first cranks now star thingys.

I am not positive this is what it is but I am quietly confident as I was quite particular with everything else.

As soon as I feed the little one I will go have a geez.

thanks Kev

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blokeinamoke wrote:
Yep Mokes are ugly - but Moke owners know that. Its like ugly women - she may be a dog but you know your going to get some :wink:


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 8:41 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Which way up did you put the star thingy under the rotor? Numbers on it should be on top. As it rotates anti-clockwise, the steep side leaves the pole pieces.
If flipped over, it won't work... :lol:


checked it and thats not it

mmm

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 8:54 am 
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Ok

Plug lead plugged into coil.

Plug in lead earthed to head stud.

Plug fires when the coil power is switched from on to off.

not off to on as one would expect?

weird huh

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blokeinamoke wrote:
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 9:06 am 
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replugged everything into dizzy and tried all 4 leads with a plug earthed to a head stud........nuthing.

The pins inside the dizzy cap seem pretty knackered and the rotor buttons kinda ugly.

I will replace em today if I can find somewhere thats open.

thats my problem






I think.

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blokeinamoke wrote:
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 1:38 pm 
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OK just put a new cap and rotor button on it.

El zilcho sparko still.

I reakon I musta stuffed something up in the dizzy

Heres a pic does anything look out of place?
Image

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blokeinamoke wrote:
Yep Mokes are ugly - but Moke owners know that. Its like ugly women - she may be a dog but you know your going to get some :wink:


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 1:58 pm 
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Looks right to me.. :wink:
Could be the module is knackered, see if you can borrow another. But, I've not ever had a bad one and I've converted over a dozen of em.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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