do these engines have a cam angle sensor? I am asuming they run a crack angle sensor? check the plugs for these sensors unplug them and see if they have any crap in them, then plug them back together. check to see if the crank pulley (hope the crank angle sensor is fitted under the pulley) hasnt got to much movement as it may have worn the sensor outor be stopping it giving the ecu/pcm (what ever you want to call it) any signal so your engine will not run. if it does have a cam angle sensor and it is stuffed it will stop the engine from running to (no limp home type mode from these sensors......) other than that check the fuel pump operation, check for spark etc, etc......all the usual stuff

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

Thanks Maxi 23. I know this is an issue with the Spi Minis. I too have had this problem in the past along with at least 1 other on this forum. Your pics are really good and straight forward. They should put them in the how to area. I'll check these hoses again when I get back to my inlaws on the weekend. I'll also check to see if there is a decent current getting to the coil.

Thanks for everyones help.

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1970 Mini Deluxe - 1275, Weber, Clive 346 cam, MS 4-pot slotted discs, Megajolt ignition Now with new improved Mambas... almost on the road
1966 Van with Traveller rear seat conversion
2008 Prado GXL
All in various states of repair...

Back to the original problem... SPi's run a resisted wire to the coil and requires the appropriate coil - GT40 is a good choice, but comes in both resisted and non-resisted models.

But as thsi is turning into a generic SPi fault finding thread...



SPi's don't have a Cam Sensor (MPi's do). The Crank sensor is mounted under the starter motor and reads 10 magnets mounted into the back of the flywheel at 1/12th intervals. 10 into 12ths means that there are two gaps at 180 degrees spacing that coincides with TDC of the pistons - the EMS uses the missing magnets in the regular timing of the passing magnets as the spark firing points.

`

I was wondering about that as I looked everywhere for a resistor.

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1970 Mini Deluxe - 1275, Weber, Clive 346 cam, MS 4-pot slotted discs, Megajolt ignition Now with new improved Mambas... almost on the road
1966 Van with Traveller rear seat conversion
2008 Prado GXL
All in various states of repair...

It's a pink wire...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I've also found brown with pink trace - real easy to identify from a plain brown once it gets a bit oily

Not running problem.......
check the module on the side of the dissy as it may have given up the ghost and be causing the not running bit.......but first you need to check for
1/check the circuit/wires into the module power etc
2/check spark into the dissy from coil lead
3/ spark from the dissy to s/plugs.

I hope no one minds me asking this question but when these cars have a substantial voltage drop (e.g.;alternator or battery buggered) does the ems/pcm/ecu, etc,etc (cant think of any more abbreviations for the same thing at the moment) shut down so it doesnt lose it memory and then not allow the car to start/run??

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

I believe the computer does get reset when power is disconnected, but the default setting should still allow the car to run.

The other part of the problem where the car runs for '5 minutes' isn't the best way to describe, given that throttle position or engine load are not specified.

If the '5 minuts' is just at idle, but not with a small amount of throttle, it could be the idle control motor, another common thing to bugger up on SPIs.

Was at idle for ~ 3 mins and I gave the accelerator a blip and it died. From then on it wouldn't start. No engine load as car was stationary.



please explain?

Thanks,

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1970 Mini Deluxe - 1275, Weber, Clive 346 cam, MS 4-pot slotted discs, Megajolt ignition Now with new improved Mambas... almost on the road
1966 Van with Traveller rear seat conversion
2008 Prado GXL
All in various states of repair...

if it was the stepper motor it should still be able to run....it will more than likely be full of carbon and just need to be cleaned out with some carby or throttle body cleaner unless there is something wrong with the wiring to it and it would have a base idle setting to run off. You also have to take into consideration the sputtering prior to the not starting so thats why im thinking that it maybe a main fuel pump (as i cant remember at this point in time if these run a primary pump to feed the main pump especially at start up) or the ignition module (or in that area) cutting out once its done a little bit of work and gets warm/hot and then breaks down untill it cools for next attemt at start up.
anyways thats my $2 worth hope you have some fun finding the fault Fat Boy Dave

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

The ECU shuts down at around 10 volts - but if it was that low then it wouldn't turn over on the starter.

Only one fuel pump. in the top of the tank.

Maybe a dirty batch of fuel has blocked the filter? Try loosening the fuel line up near the injector body (feed not the return) and turn the key to ON and see if you get high pressure fuel feed.

Did this all happen after that dump of well welcomed rain? I have had problems once where the small contacts inside the large plug(s) on the bottom of the ECU have been dirty with dust etc and then gotten wet causing some broken contacts. Try taking the plug off and cleaning the contacts. I use a fine brass bristled suede brush (from a shoe shop), but a stiff toothbrush would probably do.

Hmm. Had been sitting at Werribee Zoo for about a week. So could be possible with all the dust there.

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1970 Mini Deluxe - 1275, Weber, Clive 346 cam, MS 4-pot slotted discs, Megajolt ignition Now with new improved Mambas... almost on the road
1966 Van with Traveller rear seat conversion
2008 Prado GXL
All in various states of repair...

SPi don't have any ballast resistor feeding the coil, it gets the full 12V. and no external ignition modules, all is inside the ECU
the flywheel looks like this at the back

no magnets, the sensor produce a voltage wave as the teeth pass by, the faster the more voltage.
how old is the fuel filter? should be replaced every 80.000km
maybe the tank venting is blocked, the fumes are directed to a coal filter. try starting with removed petrol cap.
get some help trying to start the car and you look for a running fuel pump, it runs for some seconds if ignition is turned on. best heared with one ear near the tank.
then check if fuel is injected when the starter turns over.
if you turn off the ignition you should hear a ticking noise from the engine bay, this is the idle controll going full back and then adjust to start position to ease starting the engine. if not most of the time the connector neeeds to be put back as it likes to shake loose.
if you remove the air filter do not unplug the air temp sensor and turn on the ignition, a fault code will be stored. not dramatic but will be shown next time the fault codes are checked

hope this helps a bit

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Rover 214 atm ....

So what happened Dave. Did you get it sorted out?

Check the ignition control box.
then the throttle position switch

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