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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 10:19 pm 
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Mick most rodchange boxes are 3.44 as well, not just the LS.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 10:24 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
What? Right through the 998 clubmans as well? I thought they were 3.7s??

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 10:31 pm 
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Location: Adelaide
drmini in aust wrote:

As for the speedo problem, put a 140KMH Moke one in. :P
The one marked 800turns/km suits a 3.44 diff pretty well, the 860 turns/km one suits a 3.647 (Mini-K) diff and is spot on. Both these assuming with 10" wheels... :wink:


I did have the Moke one in for a while to solve the problem but in the end I Roverized the instruments and got a tacho into the bargin.The car was already a bitsa so I don't feel guilty about changing things .


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 11:04 pm 
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Mick wrote:
What? Right through the 998 clubmans as well? I thought they were 3.7s??

I have never pulled a Clubby rodchange box down and found a 3.7.
Even in late 998 Clubby S, I have about 4 boxes here and all are 3.44. :wink:
Most all 1098 Clubbies with remote box were 3.647, they were carried over from the Mini-K.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: Time delay
PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 11:08 pm 
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Drekkus wrote:
I was looking at something like this and modifing as necessary.


I started looking at something like that but now I'm looking at a self latching relay on starter press that starts an electronic delay on make timer relay. - just two components. The timer relay can handle 30 amps and can be adjusted from 0.1 to 10 seconds. Just have to find an Australian supplier :?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 5:59 pm 
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Hi Kev

Why so much advance, 16 seems a little high :lol:

there are lots of circuits around for timing / switching the 555 tming circuits are cheap to build and built proof (search teh net)

Kiwiinwgtn


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 6:11 pm 
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http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... BCATID=347

this controls the coil which is what you are trying to do..


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 8:00 pm 
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Mick wrote:
Subaru's have a deliberate delay of about 1 - 1.5 seconds before they allow a spark to be generated....I dunno why in their case, but am told it is so....


To pump some oil around the engine due to being a flat 4 or 6, the oil has no where to "sit".
All rod change g/boxes came with 3.44 diff ratio no matter what engine was attached as Drmini in aust has said.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 8:13 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
BALLISTIC wrote:
Mick wrote:
Subaru's have a deliberate delay of about 1 - 1.5 seconds before they allow a spark to be generated....I dunno why in their case, but am told it is so....


To pump some oil around the engine due to being a flat 4 or 6, the oil has no where to "sit".


Well there you go...

BALLISTIC wrote:
All rod change g/boxes came with 3.44 diff ratio no matter what engine was attached as Drmini in aust has said.


I never new that either...

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 10:20 pm 
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kiwiinwgtn wrote:
Hi Kev

Why so much advance, 16 seems a little high :lol:


Kiwiinwgtn

It has a 282 cam and bathtubbed chambers... 8)
Max advance is 38°.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 10:42 pm 
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ET 13.457 seconds , OH YEAH !!!!
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Mick wrote:
BALLISTIC wrote:
Mick wrote:
Subaru's have a deliberate delay of about 1 - 1.5 seconds before they allow a spark to be generated....I dunno why in their case, but am told it is so....


To pump some oil around the engine due to being a flat 4 or 6, the oil has no where to "sit".


Well there you go...


Thanks, i was wondering why my liberty always had that delay before it started, all subaru's must be the same not just WRX's..

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 10:58 pm 
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Mini Mad wrote:
Mick wrote:
BALLISTIC wrote:
Mick wrote:
Subaru's have a deliberate delay of about 1 - 1.5 seconds before they allow a spark to be generated....I dunno why in their case, but am told it is so....


To pump some oil around the engine due to being a flat 4 or 6, the oil has no where to "sit".


Well there you go...


Thanks, i was wondering why my liberty always had that delay before it started, all subaru's must be the same not just WRX's..


(Some more useless information :wink: )
You might notice it starts slightly faster if the cars been driven and still "hot" as it still has a small amount of oil in the system and the oil is able to get through the engine quicker so it doesnt take as long for the oil pressure to build up again so the the pcm/ecu (what ever you want to call it :roll: ) will allow the engine to start.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 5:12 am 
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you can always rig a relay to the oil pressure switch. that way when you run out of oil it will stop the engine as well :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: Time delay
PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 7:35 am 
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Wombat wrote:
Drekkus wrote:
I was looking at something like this and modifing as necessary.


I started looking at something like that but now I'm looking at a self latching relay on starter press that starts an electronic delay on make timer relay. - just two components. The timer relay can handle 30 amps and can be adjusted from 0.1 to 10 seconds. Just have to find an Australian supplier :?


You'll hardly need 30 amps as what you are timing here is the coil (ignition) circuit. The starter circuit only becomes high amperage b/w the starter solenoid and the starter motor.

You will have a problem timing it because when switching your ignition switch to the "on" position your coil +12v goes live. Then switching to the cranking position the coil circuit remains unchanged (at +12v) and the starter circuit goes live. So if you hook up the timer to the coil circuit the best you'll get is a delay from the time you switch the ignition on not from the time you start cranking.

Connecting the timer to the cranking position on the ignition switch won't do you any good either as as soon as you stop cranking up the engine the coil circuit will go off.

Connecting the timer to both the "on" position (where the coil would have normaly been fed from) and the cranking position (where the starter solenoid is activated from) wont work either as say you switch the ignition switch to the on positon and let the fuel pump build up some pressure for a few seconds and then crank up the engine - your timer would have started counting when you switched to "on" and then when switching to "cranking" changes nothing as it is still fed by the original connection for the coil (which remains live when cranking).

Am I making any sense at all? Basicaly it will be a rather complicated task to make the timer work I reckon.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 9:04 am 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Not a big issue if you are going to wire it up.
You would need to have a second normally closed contact on your timer relay. The normally closed contact would normally supply supply the coil when the engine was running, but when the start button is hit the coil would be energised by the same +ve solenoid feed. When the timer has operated, and the engine has started the normally closed contact would take over once the coil is de-energised.
There would be a 5 milli second change over at a critical spot in the engine running cycle, but it probably wouldn't matter.

I didn't have this problem at all with the timing set to 5 degrees...

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