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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 9:54 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Hunter NSW
I had one in my moke took it for a short drive it was ok next day took it out again started out ok but then it ran on 2 cylinders put points back in and hasn't missed a beat


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 10:40 pm 
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religious status
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
You either love electronic ignitions, or hate em...
I had a Pertronix love affair, then got into Pulsar dizzys. Now I run 2 of them, and have a new Pertronix Flamethrower dizzy going into the 1412 stroker for the wife's van.
Points? No sir, no more for this little black duck... :D

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Last edited by drmini in aust on Sun Nov 02, 2008 6:25 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 10:46 pm 
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848cc
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Is there anyone getting the conversion kit from UK? If so let me know, I am based in Sydney and maybe we can share the shipping cost.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 11:01 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2007 5:21 pm
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Location: Perth
i will be getting a few at least and getting them sent to a friend in uk who will forward them at the ACTUAL cost. plus few other items im looking at!

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New from the UK and wanting a NICE little British car!


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 7:28 am 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Goldbrocade_62 wrote:
I had one in my moke took it for a short drive it was ok next day took it out again started out ok but then it ran on 2 cylinders put points back in and hasn't missed a beat


Is this the old petronix kit?

MOSFETs are awesome these days, an order of magnitude in terms of current carrying capacity, low power (heat) consumption. It would be interesting to see if they use them these days or older BJT type transistors.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 5:31 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue May 29, 2007 5:58 pm
Posts: 70
Location: Christchurch, NZ
I've got a 43d4 with the short cam and the petronix Ignitors will not work.
Anyone got any alternatives?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 1:53 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Sun Jan 08, 2006 10:31 pm
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Location: Brisbane
Took the plunge and ordered the Britpart conversion kit for the 45D and had a friend pick them up and post them to me. Ended up quite cheap, not a lot of difference between this and the cost of a new condensor and points. The best part is that they fit either the long shaft or short shaft 45D distributors which now means I have a spare distributor. Both have been tested and work great. Downside is they have since put their prices up from UK 6.95 to UK 8.10.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 4:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
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Location: Brisbane
I`ve been using the little blue electronic ign module thingys for ages,,, sold & fitted heaps & heaps of them too,,, until very recently i havn`t had a problem with them but then i had a run of 4x of them all fail & run poorly, miss & fart,,, i sent them all back & got the credit,,, i`m still a fan of them, & that last lot of 3 may well have just been a bad batch

There is also another version of the same thing that fits the early 25D dissys too ;-)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 4:43 pm 
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Postally Verbose
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Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 9:12 am
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Location: Northern NSW
Is that the 850 , side entry capped distributer Matt , I've never learnt the Lucas code for them , just know them as side entry or 850 distributers ...

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:02 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Brisbane
Matt, the ones I got are the 'blue' variety also and there is now a newer 'red' variety available but at twice the price. Hope mine stays reliable.

sports850, as Matt says there is also one available for the 25D side entry, UK 15.10 plus UK 7.00 postage is the best price I've found. Works out around $50 delivered here. It now means that there are kits available for all the distributor types ( 25D, 29D and 45D ) used in Australian produced minis for those who wish to keep their cars as original as possible.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 4:11 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2008 5:50 pm
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Location: Brisbane
This is also the Allison now Crane as well - not cheap but very good..

http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/XR700 ... Detail.cfm

Mine is OLD and produces a great spark whatever the conditions...

DICK


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 7:37 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
I picked up one of these kits last week. They mailed it on Friday and I got it today (Tuesday) :shock: Not bad....
The transistor is exposed, but I would prefer some sort of a heatsink to drag away some heat. Overall it isn't a bad little package. The transistor data is shown and comes up as being capable of switching 15 amps according to the data sheet. So it would be alright (on paper anyway) to be used with a 1 ohm (or even slightly less) coil.

http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datashe ... Xyywus.pdf

Image

The hall effect magnets can be seen around the bottom of the rotor button here.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 3:55 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Warning! Pointy headed speak below



I've been making some calculations based on the manufacturers datasheet. http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datashe ... Xyywus.pdf

The maximum temperature that the transistor as photographed above is capable of operating at is 175 degrees. From this data sheet, the component manufacturer claims that the junction-case temperature that is generated is 2.5 degrees/Watt. This is Using a hypothetical coil of 3.0 ohms, this coil will consume 4 amperes at 100 percent duty cycle. So 4 amperes x 12 Volts is 48 watts, and 48 Watts x 2.7C/W is 129.6 degrees Celsius (lets call it 130 for fun).
Add this temperature to the ambient temperature in the distributor (approx 80 degrees, ie. block temperature) and you have an transistor operating temperature of a fraction under 200 degrees. This makes for a fairly stressed transistor and will explain the occasional failure. I can see why it is not a good idea to leave the ignition on with this going on. When the engine is running the coil is only "on" for about 50 percent of the time, so this reduces the current by the same amount thus reducing the running temperature to 145 degrees including the ambient temperature.

Not to bore anyone, but with these figures, don't leave this sucker on without the engine running, and despite my thoughts in the post above, don't use an electronic (or resistor rated) coil using this module.It is running above it's rated temperature. These figures won't destroy the transistor outright. But it will reduce its lifespan dramatically. My thoughts would be to purchase (from Jaycar) or create a heatsink and bind this onto the outward surface of the transistor using heatsink compound. This will reduce the temperature by 1.7 degrees/watt, thus the unit will run at a much reduced temperature of around 100 to 110 degrees running and 120 to 130 degrees with the ignition on but not running.... A much better option.

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Last edited by Mick on Fri Mar 06, 2009 4:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 4:05 pm 
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Rover Cooper
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Location: Werribee Vic. RETIRED - VMCI 3225 ,
WHAT THE *^$%@#&%#$ WAS THAT ALL ABOUT....FAR7ING MARTIAN LINGO........... :wink: :wink: :wink:


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 4:10 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
just read this bit.

Quote:
Not to bore anyone, but with these figures, don't leave this sucker on without the engine running, and despite my thoughts in the post above, don't use an electronic (or resistor rated) coil using this module.It is running above it's rated temperature.

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