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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 1:51 pm 
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I will post a pic of it when the bloke who borrowed it 6 mths ago desides to return it :evil: I don't mind lending special tools but i like them returned. I think I will give him a reminder before I need it again

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 10:25 am 
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Mick wrote:
The other is to get a scissor type ball joint cracker from Supercheap or similar. ... The steel they use on the threads on these cheapies is pretty brittle, but last for years if you hit them with some molly grease first.

They definitely are brittle. The one I bought from Super Cheeeep snapped on it's first use last night. Serves me right though. I'll buy a decent one next week.

david rosenthal wrote:
I will post a pic of it when the bloke who borrowed it 6 mths ago desides to return it :evil:

Is it anything like the squarer ones here? http://www.technictool.com/gen.ball-joint-sep.htm

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 10:52 am 
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there is a 2 pronged fork looking tool that you can buy form auto shop called a ball joint puller it slides in between the ball joint and the arma nd then you can just hit it with a hammer and it looses up in 10 seconds. the tools are about 12 bucks. can damage the boots on the ball joints, but if you dont need them it a good tool.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 11:07 am 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
semii_colin wrote:
there is a 2 pronged fork looking tool that you can buy form auto shop called a ball joint puller it slides in between the ball joint and the arma nd then you can just hit it with a hammer and it looses up in 10 seconds. the tools are about 12 bucks. can damage the boots on the ball joints, but if you dont need them it a good tool.


I gave this one away because they do damage the boot, and they also take up a lot of room in a toolbox (if you try to keep the place neat, there's only so much room)

Mearcat wrote:
Mick wrote:
The other is to get a scissor type ball joint cracker from Supercheap or similar. ... The steel they use on the threads on these cheapies is pretty brittle, but last for years if you hit them with some molly grease first.


They definitely are brittle. The one I bought from Super Cheeeep snapped on it's first use last night. Serves me right though. I'll buy a decent one next week.


Did you grease it first? Hit em up for another, I've got one here I've been using for years made by that same cheap mob supercrap supply from.

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Last edited by Mick on Fri Mar 20, 2009 11:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 11:33 am 
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If you buy one and it breaks, take the sucker back for replacement. It's the only way they will know they are selling crap.
If it breaks too, repeat as above. 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 12:47 pm 
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I've done countless balljoints with the supercrap one and it's never let me down...must of gotta good one :lol:

It is a few years old though.. Circa 2005...you watch me break it next time i use it now.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 12:54 pm 
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Apart from greasing it up before use, any suggestions for use of the splitter? eg is it better to tap the joint with a hammer in between tightening strokes of the splitter to stop the force build up in the tool at all?

Or make sure that the centre of fork part of the splitter is completely butted against the taper shaft so that just the fork tips don't take the force (I have a feeling that's what happened to mine last night) ?

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I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:57 pm 
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Mearcat wrote:
is it better to tap the joint with a hammer in between tightening strokes of the splitter to stop the force build up in the tool at all?


Yes, give the suspension arm (not the ball joint pin!) a sharp tap with the BFH once you have the joint under tension, and it'll probably pop free... just don't hit the splitter ;) If you make the splitter do all the work, it may well break..

Mearcat wrote:
Or make sure that the centre of fork part of the splitter is completely butted against the taper shaft


Yes, you absolutely have to do that otherwise you will break it. Just tap it in gently with the aforementioned BFH until it's fully seated.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 11:06 pm 
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Location: wasleys S.A.
the one I copied is similar to a two legged puller. The feet fit around the ball joint pin and then tighten the pivot bolts up and screw the main bolt down. The feet fit securely under the arm and if the ball joint is stubborn then hit the main bolt. the feet do not damage the rubber boot.

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