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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 9:33 am 
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marine clean you say... no i washed down the surface with warm soapy water then thoroughly dried it with a towel and heat gun. my first thought was that there may be some water catching in the little scratches from sanding.

oh and its always inside too.

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 Post subject: Interesting reading...
PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 9:56 am 
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Interesting reading here..

http://www.finishing.com/Letters/archive12000.html

"Keyphos is a phosphate/resin system applied by dip, brush or spray, it comes in black or clear, although all the race teams over here use the black. It has to be stoved after application."

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 10:17 am 
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Leighton wrote:
marine clean you say... no i washed down the surface with warm soapy water then thoroughly dried it with a towel and heat gun. my first thought was that there may be some water catching in the little scratches from sanding.

oh and its always inside too.


I'd be using the products por15 recommend... soapy water won't remove any oilly contaminants at all, if you don't have the marine clean at least clean the shell with some prepsol or metho.

Picture of my shell in metal ready for you (sorry not the best picture):
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:15 pm 
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britishvita wrote:
I'd stay away from using WD40 as it has silicone's in it and paint doesn't go well with silicone... you could always do one panel and then prime with an epoxy primer if that is easier


Ohh.....

I will just have to make sure i get it offf really good - plenty of Prepsol

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 3:00 pm 
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I use emerphos (c) on bare metal repairs as it converts any rust to summin else and then i hit it with regular areosol grey primer till i am ready to properly paint then it is a simple scuff with a scotchbrite to remove that primer. Not really teh cheapest way to do it but it gets the job done till i have time to spray the whole car

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 4:28 pm 
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I would use a rust convertor that has a high content of Phosphoric acid, This will leave a phosphate coating, After looking at the photos I think Hanras body shell has been coated with a product that has a high content of Phosphoric acid, Do not let the word Acid be a concern in this case, As it is not a strong Acid, it is in a lot of soft drinks


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 Post subject: Phosphoric
PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:40 pm 
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John Smidt wrote:
I would use a rust convertor that has a high content of Phosphoric acid, This will leave a phosphate coating, After looking at the photos I think Hanras body shell has been coated with a product that has a high content of Phosphoric acid, Do not let the word Acid be a concern in this case, As it is not a strong Acid, it is in a lot of soft drinks


But all the same...use rubber gloves, eye protection and a respirator if you have one :idea:

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:45 pm 
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yep safety first

what would be regarded as a high level??

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 Post subject: Re: Phosphoric
PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 9:51 pm 
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9YaTaH wrote:
John Smidt wrote:
I would use a rust convertor that has a high content of Phosphoric acid, This will leave a phosphate coating, After looking at the photos I think Hanras body shell has been coated with a product that has a high content of Phosphoric acid, Do not let the word Acid be a concern in this case, As it is not a strong Acid, it is in a lot of soft drinks


But all the same...use rubber gloves, eye protection and a respirator if you have one :idea:


Yes rubber gloves recommended -i have been using a product called something like rust dissolver - it has phosphoric acid in it. i wasnt using gloves - i figured its not hurting me so what.. washed my hands and thought they were smoother i think it may have thinned my finger tips :shock: :shock:
goggles/glasses only common sense

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 Post subject: Re: Phosphoric
PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:11 pm 
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9YaTaH wrote:
John Smidt wrote:
I would use a rust convertor that has a high content of Phosphoric acid, This will leave a phosphate coating, After looking at the photos I think Hanras body shell has been coated with a product that has a high content of Phosphoric acid, Do not let the word Acid be a concern in this case, As it is not a strong Acid, it is in a lot of soft drinks


But all the same...use rubber gloves, eye protection and a respirator if you have one :idea:


Yes I Agree, Sorry I was thinking more about people being concerned of the corosive effect of an acid on their car


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 9:29 am 
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John Smidt wrote:
Do not let the word Acid be a concern in this case, As it is not a strong Acid, it is in a lot of soft drinks


Like Coca Cola :wink: Highest content of Phosphoric acid of all the commercial brands.

When buying rust converters I look at the labels and buy the one with the highest percentage. In fact the last time I bought some the one with the highest concentration was a lot cheaper than a well known brand that was the weakest - go figure. Avoid the ones that don't state what is in them - means the amount is below the poisons regulations minimum level that requires the appropriate warning and first aid labels.

Still looking for a brand I used a number of years ago that stated on the label (and was evident in use) that it left a "plastic" film to protect and seal the surface and provided a base for painting over - worked well and you could see it was done as the film left a shine on the metal.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 10:20 am 
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Wombat,
That one was probably Permatex in the white bottle with orange cap.
It is still about but is Loctite branded now.
It is good stuff, best I've used.

Another good one like this was Selleys, but it got taken off the market I think.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 10:47 am 
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thanks for the replies ill keep my eyes open for some loctite rust converter.

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 Post subject: Re: Phosphoric
PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 10:50 am 
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John Smidt wrote:
9YaTaH wrote:
John Smidt wrote:
I would use a rust convertor that has a high content of Phosphoric acid, This will leave a phosphate coating, After looking at the photos I think Hanras body shell has been coated with a product that has a high content of Phosphoric acid, Do not let the word Acid be a concern in this case, As it is not a strong Acid, it is in a lot of soft drinks


But all the same...use rubber gloves, eye protection and a respirator if you have one :idea:


Yes I Agree, Sorry I was thinking more about people being concerned of the corosive effect of an acid on their car


Thanks John...its just that the range of products and the concentrations vary...fer instance, my bottle of DE.OX.IT is 25% Phosphoric...nasty stuff :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 10:51 am 
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this is the stuff i have used on a friends car
CONVERTER RUST FERROPRO 500ML as i get it from work , Blackwoods, and it does a good job and it definately needs to ppe to be worn when using it
costs about $20

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