Minis with twin leading shoe brakes can be a pain to bleed . i have found that air gets trapped in the link pipe between the front cyls . no matter how much you bleed it still feels soggy !! one sure way to get the air out i was told by an old bmc mechanic ex Radford mtrs of gordon nsw is to break the two ball joints and tie rod as well and rotate the whole assembly so that bleed nipple is at the top then bleed as it will push the air out first time! not just bouncing it about in the short link pipe ,in its horizontal possition . your brakes will need to be bedded in as the shoes have to cut into the shape of the drums, they may have only 70% contact area at the moment , just drive carfeully for a while and they will get better :lol: remember to turn the adjusters on the front the same direction as the wheel when adjusting or you will have no pedal :wink: hope this info helps

lol yea i know.......but i want to get my car blueslipped and the brakes will fail as they are at the moment as they dont even lock up and the handbrake doesnt even hold the car..... wondering if clutch master cylinder and brake master cylinder are any different
because there is a chance it may be a clutch master cylinder? should i still have a brake even if it is a clutch master cylinder?

_________________
1964 smooth roof panel van
1967 Mk 1 X-Police cooper s
1970 mini k
1975 leyland

The brake and clutch master cylinder look the same from the outside but the valving is different depending on which one is which.

I can't remember which one has the non return valve (assuming it would be the brake) but someone else can confirm. You should still get a pedal I would imagine

_________________
"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

well......i only have one other thing to do i think and thats my pads......ill try with my brothers pads tomorrow and let you know how i go.

_________________
1964 smooth roof panel van
1967 Mk 1 X-Police cooper s
1970 mini k
1975 leyland

a clutch MC and a drum MC work the same way, the brake MC has the little valve, but it doesn't make any difference to the way it works, the valve wasn't there for disk braked cars - and a lot of people chuck them away for drum braked cars

take your drums off and have a good look, take some photos...

I always bleed brakes just by letting the fluid run through, don't even touch the pedal, it pushes any air through, including the bit in the link pipe

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

what u mean so just undo the pipe and the bleading nipple and the fluid runs out i carters bro

yes, but don't undo the pipe - leave it where it is

just undo the bleed nipple and let the fluid run out - TheMiniMan says you should un-adjust the fronts, I guess to extend the pistons a little....

I usually put a tube over the nipple and lift it up like the S bend under a sink, so the air comes out of the bleeder, goes up the tube, then the fluid pushes it all out

have you guys checked that you're adjusting the front brakes the right way?

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

yer we adjust them out them back them off till it rubs and still nothing at all been mucking around with it for a while could worn brake shoes be a cause ???????

You can bleed the air out of that pipe on the car, just loosen the pipe's top nipple (whichever that is, I don't have one handy) push pedal down, tighten nipple. Repeat until bubbles gone...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

found the problem switched brake pads with some others my bro had and hand brake is now good. front shoes on the way so hopefully fix and register next week! thanks for all ya help guys

_________________
1964 smooth roof panel van
1967 Mk 1 X-Police cooper s
1970 mini k
1975 leyland