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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

The drum and disc brake cv's are very different. the disc cv only has a spline at the outer end and the drum cv had a spline most of the length.
The same bearings work for both types.
Disc brake cv

Drum brake cv


Both images are fom the minisport.com.au website and I hope it's ok to use them to show the difference.

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is the outer flange spacer (between flange and outer bearing) supposed to have its concave side facing the flange or facing toward the centre of the car?

cheers

The Concave side facing the drive flange, Flat side fits against the centre of wheel bearing

ok thanks for that, i'll swap the spacer around as i have fitted it the other way

the other thing i wanted to ask about was the hub nut - nobody has noticed it yet. if you look at the photos i posted up of the left and right wheels, you can see that the good wheel (left) has about 3mm of thread after the hub nut, as well as 2 rather thick washers in behind it. the right wheel i couldnt even fit the washer on if i wanted to use the cotter pin, let alone get any length of thread after the nut.

perhaps this issue supports the idea that the flange is not pushed onto the CV spline far enough?

That should solve the issue with the thread but probably not with the free play. If you can check the drive flange and cv out of the hub and see if the drive flange slides all the way up the spline on the cv. I had to replace a drive flage due to an issue like that.

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why wouldnt it explain the free play? the way i can imagine it, if the drive flange isnt slid all the way onto the CV spline it will show up as a hub nut that isnt far down the thread, as well as possibly allowing the entire assembly (drive flange plus cv joint) to move horizontally? in other words, the drive flange being tightened all the way in toward the centre of the car could possibly remove the horizontal free play?

the other thing i wanted to ask is whether or not there is any way that the transmission end of the driveshaft is supposed to lock into place somehow. is this end simply supposed to slip into the yoke of the final drive assembly, or is there some way that it is supposed to lock itself in at a certain depth? when it was removed, there was no such thing, it just slid out when the wheel assembly was removed.

cheers

It's hard to say but the spacer on the flange being on the wrong way won't sit flush with the back of the flange. thats why there is a taper in the spacer and is why the tapered part faces against the flange. So in effect it will give less play but cause lots of other problems I'm sure. So if its sitting on your drive flange like in the picture I posted leave it as is, it's on the correct way.



AFIAK it's not supposed to have one. but I have only dealt with pot joint inner cv's. But movement there won't affect the cv in the hub.

Also you said you replaced the cv. Might sound silly but is it a cv for a drum brake mini? check the part numbers and/or against the other cv you have pulled out. And what style of bearing are you running? Ones like or very similar to the pic Hanra put up, or tapered style?

Failing that, throw it on a tow truck and take it to a reputable mini specialist. Or ask/bribe an ausmini member to come round and have a sticky beak at it.

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gday nav,

thanks for your help. the CV joint used was the drum brake type, it had the long spline shaft and the boot that matches the picture posted earlier. i'm not sure of the manufacturer of the bearings used at the moment nor am i familiar enough with mini bearings to be able to discern between a spacer type bearing and a non-spacer type, but when i had the outer bearing come out (came out with the drive flange), i remember thinking that the bearing was rather thick - it has an inner piece which the ball bearings rotate on which is about twice as thick as the ball bearings, and it extends in toward the hub). it may be the spacer type bearing.

i will have another look at it all today and see if i cant get the flange onto the spline further. thanks again for all your help everybody!

cheers

Do the bearings look like this from the side? If so, do not use the spacer in between the the two bearings.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

hi guys,

had another slog at it yesterday and i'm pretty sure the bearings are the ones that have their own spacers machined into them (pic below).

i'm now at the stage of being able to push by hand the wheel flange in toward the centre of the car enough so that the assembly is in the right position, but you can still pull the flange outward and that is where the problem lies - this horizontal movement. the wheel flange, when tightened down onto the spline, is in exactly the same position as the good wheel, so i am assuming the flange is installed correctly at the right depth.

i've gone and spoken to my mechanic and he reckons there is supposed to be some kind of locking mechanism that holds the inner bearing in place. is this true? upon inspection, i was able to see that quite easily the inner bearing can move around inside the hub housing, but i cannot pull it out all the way (seems to be a lip in the hub stopping me from removing it). pics included.





any ideas appreciated about the inner bearing and its role in positioning or securing the CV spline.

it seems to me that the only plausible reason to explain this horizontal movement is that the bearings themselves are not stopping the CV from shifting outwards - ie the entire bearing assembly is not thick enough. this doesnt really make sense though, because this condition has depreciated over time, it hasnt just happened immediately after the last bearing replacement...

cheers

Please do not take any of the following to be smart A*se answers,
Looking at the Photos you have only removed the outer part of the bearing, They do appear to be the spacer type bearings,
The front bearing comes out towards the front of Hub
The rear bearing is removed towards the rear of the Hub
In the centre of the Hub is a Ridge that the bearings fit up to,
there are two areas on this ridge that have grooves in it these grooves can be used to put a drift on to the outer part of the bearing to remove it from the Hub, The ridge part of the Hub sometimes wears you would need to remove the outer part of the bearing to check This.
The spacer that fits against the drive flange should not have grooves in it,
Also check the shaft part of the drive flange , This should not have grooves worn in it where the bearing sits, If it does replacing the bearings will be a waste of time as the new ones will wear quickly,
Given That the drive Flange, The spacer on the drive flange and the ridge in the hub are in good order, and the bearings are fitted hard up against the centre of the Hub all should be Cool

hee hee,,, frustrating John???

please listen to John... if in any doubt then just ring him & actually chat to him to work it out,,, we all don`t want you to do all this work only to have it stuff up on you again



cheers & happy valentines day

no speedway tonight yay... it`s washed out time off for me Yay!!!!!!!!!!!!

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

My Phone number if you want to call is 02 46481233 Or Pm me For my Mobile Number

hi john, thanks for taking time explaining things.

1. the drive flange has no scratches or marks on it, and is not worn, and
2. the outer spacer is brand new and has no marks, scratches or wear.

so, what's left:

3. the bearings do not fit hard up against the centre of the hub. this is what i was getting at in the previous post - the inner bearing can float around in the hub freely. the outer bearing i have no concerns about. i am assuming from what you have said here that the inner bearing should not exhibit free movement when the flange has been removed (ie, during picture 1 posted above). seeing that there is no mention of a locking device (c-clip or something), i assume then that this means the bearing needs to be replaced or that the hub itself has been damaged.

thanks for all the help, i'll post again to confirm whatever the problem was when it gets positively identified.

cheers