I've tried with zip ties, even the side cutter method previously and they still leaked. Go with the std steel strap thingys

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

Where does one get the standard straps from??

PM sent willy

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

OK, Why not T-Bolt heavy duty clamps
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/21322 ... _Hose.html

Comes in 2mm dia increment ranges.

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"Boris" - '69 Cooper S Mk 2

The standard ones are made like the early (60s and prior) hoseclamps were, with a screw and nut.
I doubt you could buy new now, unless John Smidt has a stash.
I'd go with a stock worm drive hoseclamp if you can't get em.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

http://www.minisport.com.au/prod1131.htm

You can buy proper rack grease rather than use something intended for a different application.

I;ve never had problems with normal hose clamps - although , if you can find the original "omega" style clamps they're better.

Cheers, Ian

Bit off topic, but how do you remove a rack from a clubby? I can undo everything holding it outside of the cabin, but can't get the input shaft off? i.e the shaft from the steering column on entry to the rack... Any tricks to the trade?

In addition, where can you get one of the racks serviced? or is a pop to do yourself?

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Answer the Question....
BUT always Question the Answer

willy ,the problem with sealing the alloy part is that it is a cast finish. I find that the hose clamps will seal but eventually the edges of the clamp cut thru the rubber. There is not much alternative apart from a narrow type of "band-it" strapping.
When I over-haul the racks I set them up in the lathe a take a cut in the area where the clamp is to give a perfectly round smooth surface. They will seal up completely with a good quality cable tie then and do as Doc said, USE gear oil NOT grease especially if you still have the felt type bush in the LH end

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Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

Getting the boots to seal with zip ties and even the stainless steel ones, forget it. The original clamps although a bit fiddley are best just replace the screws & nuts every time.

The problem with the zip ties - of any type - is the head on them cannot follow the circular profile of what it is your pulling is down on to, so there are small gaps from which they leak. They also do not apply an even presure around the boot ie they are tight around the back (furthest from the head) and pull a loose bit around under the head, This may settle, but in the mean time they'll leak.

Hose clamps are generally too wide to go on the rack body.

If I don't have any clamps at hand, I use Iron Tie Wire, wrapped around twice and don't pull it too tight. Looks a bit rough but doesn't leak.

Because of the rough cast finish on the rack body, I always use a bit of permatex here, but not on the rods (you need to be able to spin these).

The other problem is that all rack boots I've seen in recent years are plastic, not 'rubber', and they are not real good at all.

Does anyone know where to get rubber ones?