It's not compression, but a simple way to check that is take out all the spark plugs and the motor should turn over easily with the starter motor only. If nothing changed with all the plugs out then it's not the compression...

Solenoid OK? turn ignition on, put a spanner over the 2 solenoid connections (hold the spanner with a rag and beware of sparks). If same thing it aint the solenoid.

Check earth strap as Matt says

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Put a spanner on the crank pulley, if it's difficult to turn with plugs out , you have a crank or conrod problem.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Good point

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I wouldn't say its difficult, there's definitely resistance there but no much, especially compared to when the spark plugs are in.
Also the resistance isn't consistent through the revolution, when the pistons are near tdc (or bottom dc )its much lower (i can turn it with my hand on the socket alone).

It's hard to say without an objective measure though. (not near enough to register anything on the torque wrench).

Ive drained the oil (not the ideal viscosity anyway) in anticipation of stripping it back down, and sending it back to the shop, but I'd rather not if this isn't the problem..

If i can make sure its not a crank/conrod problem, ill chuck some more oil in there, adjust the timing and give the starter a really good clean.

thanks again for your patience,
Steve

Check that the timing isn't so far advanced that the plugs are working well before the piston reaches the correct spot, as it could be firing near the bottom of the stroke and pushing the piston back down.

Ok guys, I've established that it's definitely not a crank or conrod problem and with the spark plugs out the starter turns the motor over very fast..

Oh, I've checked all the earths and connections, there all good...

Is it possible I've messed something up in the cylinder head i.e valves opening too late?

I really want to get this sorted so i can get it running!

Oh well, at least i get the shell back from the panel beaters tomorrow. Then its painting time!

A sad starter motor can often turn an engine over "Without" any real load on it (like with the plugs out) ,,, & when a "decent" load or resistance is placed upon it, (plugs back in & trying to start a new-ish engine) well it can say "no,,, i`m not going to work,,, i`m tired & i`m sad & i really want to be overhauled"

well at lease that`s why i hear them say

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Ok i suppose ill be getting myself a starter from mg heritage, fingers crossed

Thanks all

It could also be a current drop between the battery and the starter. Sometimes it will work without the plugs but under full load it breaks down.

Don't buy another starter till you know what the problem is.
You have had the same problem with a Lucas starter and a Gemini starter.

Have you checked all the cable connections between the battery and the starter?
Have you checked the earth cable from the battery to the body?
The cable from the body to the engine? (this is the one that people forget)

You could try something else before breaking open the wallet..
Try hooking the battery directly to the starter with jumper leads.
Sit the battery on the ground at the front of the car.
Hook the neg directly to the engine.*
Hook the pos to the starter.* (*assuming it is not pos earth)
Does that make any difference?

Morris, i don`t thing the engine is in the car by the sounds of it,,, it`s probly just a really poor set of jumper leads he`s using ,,, more common to have crappy soopersh!T leads than dog sh!t,,,

I have a set of truck leads,,, (like welding leads) with nastey mothafker clamps that will take your finger off

start anything, any time, any where

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

I was actually playing the same game with my ride on mower yesterday. I have the same sort of jumper leads.
The bugger of a mower wouldn't turn over very fast but when I hooked the truck jumper leads up to the starter from the Morris it turned over quicker than ever!
The connection on the battery cables were dirty and just needed a clean. (they also need to be thicker!)

I find that it is advisable to take a file to the clamps on the jumper leads to keep them clean and sharp so they bite well.

With most of the jumper leads you buy now, the plastic insulation is thicker than the copper wire inside.
I use 25mm² welding cable, and 300A earth clamps painted red and black.
They have solid copper contacts, not copper plated thin steel.
Even when 3M long, they will carry 300A and spin a motor over like a top.
Cost is about $75 for 6M of cable, 4 lugs and clamps from any industrial welding supply place.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

problem solved!
guess what it was....yep the starter leads, can't believe i didn't think of that, they were even getting hot from the resistance!
thanks guys your champions!


now it's painting time!

acid etch, filler, primer topcoat?aint

ill be using kitchen cuboard 2pak paint




thanks again, cant' believe it was something so obvious!

ha,,, i got one right for once

& about time too, most of my replys lately have been crap ok,,, "All" of my replys are crap

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

I think you should be sending Morris a case, seeing he just saved you heaps on engine dismantle/re-assembly.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.