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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 4:55 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Eastwood, Sydney
Chong is right.
Same problem here
Brand new motor (Cooper S) so only ever used 98 Oct. No carbon build up. First start-up and stop, ran ON. Worried the B-Jesus out of me until Doc said "normal" high compression engine.
Now in gear > foot on brake > turn off > lift clutch. Presto engine stops.

Lower compression seems OK. My 1098 stops every time easy. Running 95 Oct in it

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Last edited by 4myego on Tue Aug 11, 2009 4:58 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 4:57 pm 
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This space for rent
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Location: Melbourne
Like Doc said, if it doesn't run on, your CR is too low :lol:

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The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 7:44 pm 
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the King of Bling
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awdmoke wrote:
If your compression ratio is high, low octane fuel will cause run on.
I only use Ultimate/98, no problems.
Twice I've had to use 96, and it runs on a little.
Don't even ask about standard ULP :evil:



we have the same situation. After months of telling the wife what to do...she admits its every fuel under 98

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 11:15 am 
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1098cc
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Morris 1100 wrote:
Drexxle wrote:
not using 98 octane fuel is the biggy.

had a look into the manual for specs and even it states 98 oct minimum.
Really? Do go on.

This of course is a load of codswollop. The recomended fuel was "Petrol" unless you had a Cooper S in which case the recommended fuel was 100 octane. The Normal cars were designed to run on Super petrol which was around 96 octane. You could also run on Standard petrol which was about 90 from memory.
The thumbwheel on the 25D distributor is so that you can adjust the timing to suit different fuels.


Thats why you adjust the thumbwheel then isnt it, and this was only on 25D dizzys as far as i have seen, 29d, 43d, 45d dont have thumbwheels. Everytime i put 91 in the car, which ive had to do alot on this trip, it runs on. When i get to put 98 in it doesnt.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 12:51 pm 
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1098cc
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Given it's so easy to deal with running on (stalling the engine, which I do automatically now), is there any other reason for running such an expensive fuel in an old car, assuming the compression ratio doesn't require it?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 1:58 pm 
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ET 13.457 seconds , OH YEAH !!!!
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If it's running on there may be a chance of pinging when using lower octane fuel.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 3:58 pm 
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1275cc
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For those that dont know - pinging is where the metal on the piston starts to corrode away in the heat of the combustion when there is too low an octane or the timing is too advanced.

Mike


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 4:03 pm 
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ET 13.457 seconds , OH YEAH !!!!
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Mike_Byron wrote:
For those that dont know - pinging is where the metal on the piston starts to corrode away in the heat of the combustion when there is too low an octane or the timing is too advanced.

Mike


I would say that's the effect pinging has in the end but the actual pinging is defined by preignition of the fuel as the piston is on it's way to TDC. Correct me if i'm wrong?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 4:07 pm 
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1275cc
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Yeah - its incomplete compression and incomplete fuel air mixture meaning it burns way too hot. It is pre-ignition.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 8:28 pm 
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1275cc
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Took the advice given here and switched to the good fuel and the performance difference was noticeable........and has almost cured the run-on problem.
My carbies are a problem.....I think the're worn and it's proving very difficult to get a sensible idle speed.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 8:37 am 
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848cc
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mine was running on fora few weeks. Turns out my car was overheating which my broken gauge failed to pick up on. I put a new gauge on and I was running at 250 deg f . Needless to say my head wasnt in great shape. Repaired it and now there is no more run on..

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 1:04 pm 
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Engine temp running too hot

too much ignition timing advance

engine """compression-ratio"" too high

hot spots in combustion chambers

idling too high

----------------------------------------

any of the above &/or any combination of the above, can cause running on &/or Pinging

I`m definately not a fan of minis (or any cars for that matter) pinging &/or running on... there is definately no need for it,,, there`s definately no reason to even want it that way

as i`ve said before (many many times) most engine reco shops don`t even have a burette (device that allows you to measure the volumes within the combustion chamber) & even if they did they most often don`t use it... The compression ratio needs to be kept to a reasonable level (9.5:1-ish) so that pinging & running on doesn`t occur with the fuel you commonly use, or damage will be the result,,, if your mini pings &/or runs on, then sooner or later the signs of premature engine damage will be evident

stalling the car to stop it running on also damages the engine,,, it hammers, stresses & fatigues the pistons & rings

If your engine has been built for road use & to use pump fuel but with "too-High" compression ratio, then you really should be looking at having it relieved or add some octane booster to your fuel

& no,,, most valve saver products are not octane boosters at all,,, in fact they are most often the opposite,,, they are only meant to add some valve & valve-seat lubrication which generally detracts from the octane rating of the fuel (unless it`s lead based which is now illegal)

Building an engine with 10.5:1 (or higher) compression ratio is generally "NOT" the way to go... there`s very little difference in performance between a mini engine running 10.5:1 comp ratio & the same engine set up at 9.5:1,,, (noticable but very little) providing that all else is adjusted to suit.

you can normally advance the ignition some more with the lower comp ratio to help re-gain some response, but also it alows you to de-tune (retard) it for when good fuel is not avaliable

However,,, retarded-ignition type engines generally run hot,,, so if you think you can get away with a high comp engine & then just retard the ignition till it stops pinging ,,, then you have been miss-guided as the engine now runs hotter & will need even more retarding of the ignition to combat the running on, hence it runs even hotter

it`s a viscious circle & this situation is all to damn common these days,,, there`s no need for it & if you have an enginbe that you know is too high compression, then you really should take "measures" to correct it,,, (Pardon the pun) :-)

If your mini does ping or run on & If you`re not sure what your compression ratio is,,, then i`d suggest you have it proffesionally tuned (by an experienced mini mechanic) & then look at how it`s running,,, if it still runs on or pings then you can almost bet your left testicle that your engine has way too high a compression ratio & you should have it relieved

"Race-Cars" run high compression ratios with big "RACE" cam shaft profiles & they "NEED" to run very high octane fuels,,,

road cars run road fuel & should run road compression ratios & road cams

If you want a "Compromise" engine like a Rally motor, then keep comp ratios at (or around) a tad lower than 10:1 to keep thing safe & help them last

If you have a very large capacity road engine (1400-1500ccs) then you can get away with slightly higher comp ratios (10.5:1-ish) but must be kept in tune or damage will occur, especially to piston ring lands & head gaskets predominantly

end rant

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