Just my 2cents...

I'd avoid using WD40 if possible as it contains the bad "s" word being silicone. Silicone and paint aren't best friends at all, if there is any silicone left on the surface that hasn't been fully cleaned off you'll get what is called fish eyeing in your paint and you will most probably need to start again. There are a few paint manufacturers that offer anti silicone additives to add to their paints if you do end up having problems as another option.

As an alternative to WD40 you may want to use a spray on primer that can easily be rubbed back, I've used the "galvanising" pressure packs before that coat the metal with a zinc rich coating to protect it.

You could also coat the metal in a rust converter and then not wipe it off with water - this will leave the panel coated in a phospheric coating that will protect it for a few days to a few months depending on where/how the vehicle or panel is stored and left

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[quote="britishvita"]Just my 2cents...

I'd avoid using WD40 if possible as it contains the bad "s" word being silicone. Silicone and paint aren't best friends at all, if there is any silicone left on the surface that hasn't been fully cleaned off you'll get what is called fish eyeing in your paint and you will most probably need to start again. There are a few paint manufacturers that offer anti silicone additives to add to their paints if you do end up having problems as another option.

You could also coat the metal in a rust converter and then not wipe it off with water - this will leave the panel coated in a phospheric coating that will protect it for a few days to a few months depending on where/how the vehicle or panel is stored and left[/quote]

Howdy,

Your totally right about silicone. I doesn't get on well with paint and you will get fish eyeing. I never considered that WD40 might have silicone in it, the WD lube i use isn't WD40, it's a generic brand that Jaycar sell in bulk and its cheaper. That was my bad and I'm sorry if what I caused any confussion. I have used WD40 brand WD40 for this same application a few times now and again and haven't had a problem, but what you said is well worth noting.

There is a CRC version of WD lube which does have silicone in it, so its totally possible. You should always prepsol anything your about to paint and if its bare metal I usually clean it with multi purpose thinners.

As far as leaving panels lying around covered in rust converter (phosphoric acid)... I gotta say I'm sorry but I wouldn't do it. It leaves the metal that clean that it is incredibly prone to rust. With out a word of lie I had a car I was working on in Feb, when it was humid, I cleaned the roof with Phosphoric acid and 15min later, 15minutes later, it was starting to go orange. I realise that you said leave the acid on there with out cleaning it off but its still a risk, and I might create more work. But that is what I found. And thats why I wouldn't. But hey, give it a go. You may not have that problem.

I was going to add that WD40 has silicone in it - I have used just plain oil out of the squirt can and wipped it over with a clean rag - leaves a nice film and no concerns with the S word.

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Yeah thats a good idea. There is a product that we used to use I can't remember what its called. It might have been wateral or waterol... Something like that someone here might know what its actually called... But it was very expensive, we used to just use motor oil and kero. 15% oil to 85% kero, it brushes on, its pretty light so its easy to clean off. Thats what I still use. I have never had a problem with it.

I just mentioned WD40 because it was something that everyone could understand, and I thought it would be quicker than writing out all of this. Like said I have used brand name WD40 for this application with out issue but I have mainly only ever used a generic Jaycar brand called WD lube, because I get it in bulk and its cheap. But my first choice and what I have a mixed on my shelf is an oil/kero solution. I will be more specific next time, sorry guys.

Great thread - interesting. The product used in the trade is known as Ensis Fluid. Packed by Shell - mine is in 20 l drum Its basically a transformer oil and is a wax oil combination What else is in there I have no idea.
Those of you who spent mispent hours in panel beating classes throughout the Sydney TAFE 's will be familiar with it
I have stored sheets of CRDD steel for years without corossion
Beauty is it wipes off with a turps rag regardles of how long its been there.

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Sorry need to add: Ensis fluid does not contain silicon

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Mk1 Cooper S
Mini K Rally car

or you could just go head down, bum up, get the work done and not have to worry.
Many, many different solutions to the problem. Some swear by red oxide.
None the less, all good ideas so far.

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Ah, that is true too - down here in SA it doesn't get so humid so we don't have as much of a problem. As they say, there's more than one way to skin a cat

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Anything wrong with Fish oil as a rust preventitive? Other than the smell