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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 7:57 pm 
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Location: Port Stephens, a little north of Newcastle, Australia
You can buy it just about any where. I bought it from Repco.
I poured it in while the engine was idling and then took it for quick spin
to test it with the butt dyno and it does make a noticeable difference. especially after a few miles.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 8:09 pm 
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Oh dear, worry, worry...

Joined: Fri Jun 19, 2009 5:31 pm
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Location: North Rocks
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TO answer your qustions
Yes you can add the molly to a new engine when running it in it won't stop the rings from bedding in.
The molly actually works by filling all the lows in the moving parts creating
a very smooth but very hard surface.
Most engines that we run in on the dyno we change the oil after it's run in and tuned in which case it would be a waste of molly but some of the road engines we run them in with the molly from the word go and don't change the oil for 3000k.
If you use ARP assembly on your rod bolts main bearing studs or bolts you will notice it in your oil when you drain it there's real differance between the two mollies.
Graham Russell

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 8:41 pm 
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Location: southern tasmania
penrite hpr 30,still contains zinc,so im told by a gentlemen in the no.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 8:54 pm 
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Location: Melbourne
minimy wrote:
penrite hpr 30,still contains zinc,so im told by a gentlemen in the no.


It does, but at 0.158% it's less than their "classic" engine oil at 0.176%.

HPR30 these days is an API-SM rated oil which is not really suitable for Mini's with their shared sump/gearbox. Penrite themselves say "Designed for use in modern petrol engines including multi-cam, turbocharged and conventional engines."

If using Penrite oils these days I'd choose their classic version which they say is "suitable as an engine/transmission oil in BMC Minis." Exxy, though...

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The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 9:15 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
If you can, pick an oil of SG rating or lower. Like KMX 20W/50.
It's the later ones SH on that have less or no zinc.

I used to use HPR30, but found it tended to sludge up my rocker cover if used beyond 1000 miles. It also lost oil pressure when hot compared to the KMX.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 9:21 pm 
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Can anyone tell me, has Penrite changed the compostition of HPR30 over the last few years?
I used to get great results from it, so I'm wondering if they changed the formulation or is it that there are now better oils for mini's???

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 9:27 pm 
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minimanic wrote:
Can anyone tell me, has Penrite changed the compostition of HPR30 over the last few years?
I used to get great results from it, so I'm wondering if they changed the formulation or is it that there are now better oils for mini's???

PM GR for the lowdown on HPR30 and others. He's run many common Mini oils on his engine dyno and knows people in the oilz industry.. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 9:27 pm 
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Location: Melbourne
minimanic wrote:
Can anyone tell me, has Penrite changed the compostition of HPR30 over the last few years?


YES!

I used to run HPR30 (or 50 in a tired motor) in the '90s, it was the ducks guts. Since then they've introduced the "classic" range of oils (read: $$$) and upgraded the HPR formula to SM.

Now I'm a KMX fan 8) On the Asparagus Job I never saw less than 55psi at 100km/h (and never less than 40psi at idle) in a motor that's been doing city running for 8 years..

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The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 9:29 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
[GR has] run many common Mini oils on his engine dyno and knows people in the oilz industry.. :wink:


Interesting, I'd be keen to hear the back story on that one ;)

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 12:11 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2006 11:52 pm
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Location: Bald Hills, Brisbane
someone posted a blurb about it in the last month or so, cant remember who it was but a search will no doubt bring it back up


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 7:56 am 
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sgc wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
DON'T put the additive in a brand new engine, the rings etc may not bed in properly.


molybond.com.au wrote:
Molybond Formula 2.5 is a mineral oil dispersion containing 20% by weight of colloidal molybdenum disulphide, meeting the DEF2304 purity specification. Formula 2.5 is intended for addition directly to oil systems which enables the benefits of wear reduction to be achieved without changing oil.
- Available in 60g tube
- Reduces friction and wear
- Accelerates the running-in process
- Reduces oil temperature
- Reduces noise in gearboxes



(bold emphasis in the quote is mine)

Isn't that a contradiction? Reducing friction and wear is one thing and desirable... but it seems opposed to "accelerating the running-in process" which involves moving parts bedding into eachother. :?:


When I read quotes like this (from the manufacturer!) it reaks of 'snake oil'. My experience with these type of additives in a Mini Engine / Gearbox is NOT to use them in either a new or worn engine and yes they MOST definitly do cause havoc with the synchros and can cause damage if it is attempted to force the gears, but these little gems rely on friction for their operation and these friction modifiers don't allow the syncro rings to work correctly. You may seaming get away with it with new baulk rings, but as they wear their ability to expel oil reduces and so will give trouble sychronising. Yes, there appears to be a contradition, as I said as they wear, they will give trouble yet the friction modifyer will slow the wearing. In short if they don't wear, they don't work. This is why Mini's are factory fitted with a magnet on the sump plug. You always see the fur on them at every oil change? That material from the Baulk / Synchro Rings.

If you have a careful look at the design of the Synchro Ring, it has a series of grooves cut in to it's inner tappered face. These grooves work the same as that on a tyre in the wet, they are there to disperse the oil and cause friction to 'synchronise' the speeds of the shafts which are turning at different speeds. They are a friction clutch.

I have been overhauling (mostly) Mini gearboxes for over 25 years and a lot of the gearboxes that come before me 'because they grind in to gear' are simply resolved by changing out their friction modified oil, some with additives, for a 'standard' non- friction modified oil, such as Shell Super, usually a 20W50 or 20W60 is the go for Minis. Sometimes if these incorrect oils have been in use for a while, a 'flush' with diesel oil in need (say 200 - 300 kM) to wash all the nasties away. Diesel Oil is good for this purpose as it is high in detergents.

The reduction of zinc in oil was bought on by the EPA's of this world and is a major cause of oil seal failure because of the seals drying oil. This is what the zinc was added in to the oil for. It does very little for lubrication of metal to metal components. If Zinc was used for Metal to metal lubriction it would be available as a dry assemby lubricant for automotive and / or industrial uses, however other products are used such as wax and graphite are used. Not Zinc.

If the Synchro's still work after adding a 'friction modifier' then it icannot be a friction reducer as they need friction to synchronise.

Additives can also lead to an increase in Oil Consumption as the Pistion Ring Pack is not designed to operate with such oils / modifiers.

I don't use them, I don't recommend them and it will void warrenty on any of our reconditioned products.

But you don't have to take my word for it, have a look at what other car manufacturer's and engine / gearbox reconditioner's say about such products.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:09 am 
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Mmmmmm.

I'm confused! :?

2 opposite points of view from 2 experts who know their stuff.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:44 am 
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BBY755 wrote:
Mmmmmm.

I'm confused! :?

2 opposite points of view from 2 experts who know their stuff.


Sorry, not ment to confuse. I'd suggest keeping an open mind about these things.

One further point I'd like add though, if any of this stuff was any good, the quality oils would have them already added (which they do include additives, but not these ones) and how are you or the additive manufacture going to know what oil you are already using, what additives it has and how their product will react with these other chemicals?

Don't know?

Me either!

Sorry again, that was two points !


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:56 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
My 2 bob...
The stuff does work, the reason manufacturers don't put it in oil is it will drop out of suspension in storage.
Note that YES they DO put it in greases, eg Castrol LM and LMM, Valvoline molygrease, etc where this problem doesn't exist. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:59 am 
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GT mowog wrote:
When I read quotes like this (from the manufacturer!) it reaks of 'snake oil'. My experience with these type of additives in a Mini Engine / Gearbox is NOT to use them in either a new or worn engine and yes they MOST definitly do cause havoc with the synchros and can cause damage if it is attempted to force the gears, but these little gems rely on friction for their operation and these friction modifiers don't allow the syncro rings to work correctly. You may seaming get away with it with new baulk rings, but as they wear their ability to expel oil reduces and so will give trouble sychronising. Yes, there appears to be a contradition, as I said as they wear, they will give trouble yet the friction modifyer will slow the wearing. In short if they don't wear, they don't work. This is why Mini's are factory fitted with a magnet on the sump plug. You always see the fur on them at every oil change? That material from the Baulk / Synchro Rings.

If you have a careful look at the design of the Synchro Ring, it has a series of grooves cut in to it's inner tappered face. These grooves work the same as that on a tyre in the wet, they are there to disperse the oil and cause friction to 'synchronise' the speeds of the shafts which are turning at different speeds. They are a friction clutch.

I have been overhauling (mostly) Mini gearboxes for over 25 years and a lot of the gearboxes that come before me 'because they grind in to gear' are simply resolved by changing out their friction modified oil, some with additives, for a 'standard' non- friction modified oil, such as Shell Super, usually a 20W50 or 20W60 is the go for Minis. Sometimes if these incorrect oils have been in use for a while, a 'flush' with diesel oil in need (say 200 - 300 kM) to wash all the nasties away. Diesel Oil is good for this purpose as it is high in detergents.

The reduction of zinc in oil was bought on by the EPA's of this world and is a major cause of oil seal failure because of the seals drying oil. This is what the zinc was added in to the oil for. It does very little for lubrication of metal to metal components. If Zinc was used for Metal to metal lubriction it would be available as a dry assemby lubricant for automotive and / or industrial uses, however other products are used such as wax and graphite are used. Not Zinc.

If the Synchro's still work after adding a 'friction modifier' then it icannot be a friction reducer as they need friction to synchronise.

Additives can also lead to an increase in Oil Consumption as the Pistion Ring Pack is not designed to operate with such oils / modifiers.

I don't use them, I don't recommend them and it will void warrenty on any of our reconditioned products.

But you don't have to take my word for it, have a look at what other car manufacturer's and engine / gearbox reconditioner's say about such products.


See, now that was my understanding why it might not be a great idea to use any kind of friction modifier in a gearbox... Seems I might not be such a nutter :D


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