with the balast resistor, witch coil are you using,
because coils are matched to their own specific resistor,
if your using your original mini coil keep your resistor,

if your using the honda coil swipe its ballast resistor and stick that in where the mini one was. if it had not resistor then leave it off altogether.

if you use a coil that is designed for use with a resistor without a resistor the you will eventuially cook the coil. and if you use a non resistorized coil with a resistor the you will get piss poor spark.

cheers steve

i scored a brand new bosch gt40rt coil and i need a resistor to fit it, so how do i hook it up? i dont wanna cook the coil, thanx ben.

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Ben, is it a GT40-R or a GT40-T? Never seen a GT40-RT...

The `-T' doesn't use a resistor, it's 3 ohm. The `-R' does, it's 1.5 ohm..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ok all these codes mean nothing to me

what is electronic ignition, and what's the difference between it and the old school way? which is better? is it worth it? all the usual questions a noob needs answered

There are various types of electronic ignition systems. Most new cars have the spark triggered from the crank, with separate coils to each plug. Sometimes the coil is ON the plug. But I digress..

As applied to Minis you have the good old Lucas coil ignition system with points and a condenser. Yes it works most of the time, but things wear and the spark deteriorates, and the timing gets retarded too.

Electronic ignition uses no points these days- instead they use an optical trigger or a `Hall-effect' sensor to get spark from the coil.

Electronic ignition for a Mini can be achieved by fitting another dizzy (eg Honda, Nissan) with its electronics and coil, or by buying a converted Lucas dizzy (eg Aldon red or yellow) or by buying a kit from Pertronix or Piranha etc and fitting it yourself.

Some benefits of electronic ignition (I've used a Pertronix for 3 years):
1. No points to adjust or wear out.
2. Ignition timing stays correct for long periods
3. Less ignition problems in wet wearher
4. Fatter spark due to more rapid switching compared to points
5. Can run bigger spark gaps- better economy, maybe power..
6. Less spark scatter (timing vatiation)
7. Smoother running
8. Higher rpm capability- no points bounce

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

deal.

it needs a resistor, and was told its an rt ? so how do i hook the resistor up? the honda system used a resistor aswell, but i have a nu 1 , how d o i hook it up? thanx again ben.

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Ballast resistor is in series with the coil primary. usually on the 12V+ side.
Really, it's just a method of getting better spark when you crank it on cold mornings and battery volts are low.
Instead of feeding say 7V into a 12V coil on a cold start, the resistor in series drops the normal running 12V supply to 7V or so, and the coil is basically a 7V job..
Most cars that come factory fitted with one (eg. my old CL Valiant) bypass the ballast resistor during cranking, so you get whatever the crank voltage is going to the 7V coil.

NOTE: once it's started, there is absolutely no bloody difference in performance whether you use a stock 12V coil (3 ohm) with no resistor, or a `Resistor' coil (1.5 ohm) and a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor.
So don't go buy one you don't need it.
Save your $$$ for a Pertronix or whatever electronic ignition.

ps. I like the Pertronix as you take it out of the box, fit it in the dizzy (1 screw), run 2 wires to the coil, fit the magnet ring and Vroooom! You don't even have to take the dizzy out..
If it takes you more than 10 mins, re-read the instructions..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

how much are the pertronix elec. ign. sets??? and where can i get one form sydney??

I believe you `can' get them here but they cost $200+

I have bought from www.minispares.com but they are cheaper (and faster to get) from http://www.vintageperformance.com/retro ... /lucas.htm
<edit> note: prices on this site are US$, but still pretty cheap. Takes about 7 days to fly to your mailbox.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have heard of people using a Nissan electionic distributor. Not sure which motor though, but definatley not the mods that you guys (and gals) are talking about with the Honda distributors!!
Just change the cog and mod the bolt on area.

The one that I have got (not in the car yet) is apparently from Canada where the graphing is the same as the Cooper S distributor.

Will find out what it is and where to get more if anyone is interested.
Mine orignially cost me $160 and I have to buy a cap and button for it still.
Was to go on my 1430, but it is currently on hold.

Craig

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You can take the boy out of the racer.........but not the racer out of the boy!

As your attorney I highly recommend that you also read the book.

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

i did 2 honda dizzies 2day, doin the wiring and reassembly this weekend pix to follow

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Bobtel is now running a Nissan Pulsar one. Says hardly any mods to make it fit..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yeh im not a fan of the pulsar dizzys, they are 2 bulky, plus the honda dizzy's curve is very close to that of the cooper 'S' it also looks like a lucas dizzy , unlike the pulsar 1

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