who had made up the pulsar dizzies? and how much where they selling them for?
h

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Cheers Steve.


1973 south african mk3, 1275 +30 (1300), RE13 cam, hif44, mildy worked head with s sized valves, pulsar dizzy, 1.5:1 minispares forged rockers.

it won't idle for long without intervention. it will eventually just die. it can be really dificult to start too.

things i just realised i should have included in my first post.

_________________
Cheers Steve.


1973 south african mk3, 1275 +30 (1300), RE13 cam, hif44, mildy worked head with s sized valves, pulsar dizzy, 1.5:1 minispares forged rockers.

What speed is the idle? I wouldn't try for much less than 1000...
Also what carb is it?
Try giving it some more advance. Mine will idle all day at 1100 rpm with a 45 Dellorto, it's running a light flywheel too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi,
I had very similar problem when I put my new motor in. As everything was new or reco except the points. The car ran well a little rich but revved fine. The plugs did foul pretty quick. I thought I would treat her and put new points in as everything else was new.
The car now ran as you described (rough as). It cost me a small fortune to get a real mehanic in to find the problem. He checked for rich carby mix, pulled the carbies and manifold off to check for vaccuum leaks(also PCV), replaced fouled plugs, checked and rechecked timing, drained fuel-cleaned lines and tanks, pressure tested electric fuel pump, compression test, swapped coils,
he had years and years of professional mechanical experience and was baffled.
He spent two days working on the car and was still mystified.
A mate can over and suggested to spend ten dollars on another point set as even though they were new they could be faulty. (SUPER)
put a new set of points in and the car went like new.
THE MECHANIC CHECKED EVERYTHING EXCEPT THE POINTS AS THEY WERE NEW AND APPEARED TO SPARK.
Found out that the points were firing but breaking down.
NOT guaranteed to fix, but could have saved me a fortune. Worth a look.

Always clean new points faces with petrol before fitting, they have a preservative on them.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

still no luck!

got another dizzy, put it in staticly timed it all up perfect since i can't get it to run properly to time it. more new points and condensor. still would barely run.

checked and rechecked everything. pulled out what where new plugs tested them all and only one was sparking. the rest had cracked insulators and carboned up to the max and where just arking out. like i said these where brand new plugs they went in the same time the motor went back in. it had only run for maybe half an hour in total.
so today i got another new set of plugs bunged them in. ran beautifuly up and down my block twice. still wouldn't idle tho. got prgressivly worse and then died and couldn't get it to run right again after that. i'm suspecting the new plugs have gone the same way as the last set. i'll pull them out and look again tommorrow when the daylight comes.
WHY? what is killing my plugs? as far as i know i'm using the right needle for the carb which is a hs4? i spoke to someone at one of the mini shops here in melbourne and was told which needle i should be using (can't remember who it was now i called them all and only got one person who sounded like they knew what they where talking about)

help anyone?

_________________
Cheers Steve.


1973 south african mk3, 1275 +30 (1300), RE13 cam, hif44, mildy worked head with s sized valves, pulsar dizzy, 1.5:1 minispares forged rockers.

Forget static factory timing. Advance it some more, and then some.
Mine is running nearly 40* full advance at 4000+ rpm, with a strobe timing light. Yeah it's a lot- with stock head shapes it should usually be around 30-34* full advance. But mine ain't near a stock shape..

ps. if it starts to kick back during cold starting, you are getting near the money, just retard it a little from there.

When we did Mini Mad's 1152 motor with this same cam (and a 1.5" SU) it would not rev at all, regardless of throttle opening. Then we found it was retarded to hell.
All sweet now.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i figured it would need heaps of advance but it wouldn't run at all at that stage so it was all i could do. when it did run it was magnificant. all maybe 200 metres of it.
what about them plugs?

_________________
Cheers Steve.


1973 south african mk3, 1275 +30 (1300), RE13 cam, hif44, mildy worked head with s sized valves, pulsar dizzy, 1.5:1 minispares forged rockers.

OK so what grade plugs are they? Champion N9YC/NGK BP6ES/Bosch W7DC? If they are fouling I would go a range or so hotter, at least to get it running. ie N11Y/BP5ES/W8DC.
How is the fuel level? Needle valve & seat condition? If it's flooding that will foul them too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

got the ngk BP6ES in there.

the float level is perfect i have checked that too. all that i can think now is that the needle i was pointed to is WAY too rich?

i'm at a complete loss with this one. give me efi anyday.

gotta say that re13 cam for the short time i got to drive it was pretty impressive
so much more up the top end.

cheers steve

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Cheers Steve.


1973 south african mk3, 1275 +30 (1300), RE13 cam, hif44, mildy worked head with s sized valves, pulsar dizzy, 1.5:1 minispares forged rockers.

OK how old are those plug leads.. including the coil one?
Put a multimeter on them, should measure less than 6-8 Kohm each. If more I would bin them.
I like Bosch leads, they are around 2-3 Kohm, cost around $5 or so each at Supercheap. I find they last better than Top Gun ones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm going with everyone else to say, advance the timing, put hotter plugs in, new leads, elec. dizzy, open up your rocker clearances...

Mine is similar specs and everytime I did each of those things, it got better..and better..and better...and i thought it was good before! If only it had more life left in it ..but oh well..

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

i'll get a set of hotter plugs first thing tommorrow when i get up.the ignition leads are all new, bar the coil lead, they are ICE 10mm leads getting the new coil lead when i pick up the lumenition optical dizzy they are fixing for me. i have tryed new dizzy cap and rotor buttons too. might grap a new coil lead tommorrow to fill in till the big good one. the coil i am using is a bosch gt 40 which i am not 100 percent about. it was on the car originaly when i got and always worked fine, but i changed to a hei coil when i first changed to electronic.
got the points dizzy of ebay thinking that was the problem only to filll in time till i get the leccy one back.
ICE are fixing it for nothing so i just gotta be patient and hold on till it's ready since they are pretty busy of late.



cheers.

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Cheers Steve.


1973 south african mk3, 1275 +30 (1300), RE13 cam, hif44, mildy worked head with s sized valves, pulsar dizzy, 1.5:1 minispares forged rockers.

Hate to says this, but try another set of leads....its a process of elimination and new leads can be damaged in the store or whatever....plus you haven't changed the coil lead and we don't know how old that is.....

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"Show me the Mini!"

When I go to buy coil and plug leads now I always take my trusty multimeter with me-
I've picked 6 or so off the rack in the past that were open circuit- ie. above 2 Megohm..
Wonder who bought them afterwards!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.