when I got my clubman van the guys made me use paint stripper to remove the paint from the radiator cowl as you couldn't read it properly. wasn't happy but needed to drive it and they wouldn't rego without this.

David

IMO you are best to present an unregistered car with this area bare- then touch it up later.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Goodness Gracious Me, what you talking about white boy...LOL... :wink:

Its adelaide, no vin needed, no body number needed.Just need to old plate number and engine number and away you go. Entire identity of car is based of the engine number.

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I can only please one person per day,
Today is not your day,
Tomorrow is not looking good either.

When I did mine this time last year (in WA), They just checked the number stamped below the ID plate match the number on the ID plate and took the engine number off the engine. They seemed to be more interested in whether it was Aussie built.

Strangely enough none of the numbers matched the rego papers I had been given at all. And the car was a different colour on the papers than the original colour of the actual car. ( My stupid for not checking when I bought) The only thing that was the same was the rego plates. I crapped myself because effectively I did not have any evidence that I owned the car. So I did what was suggested to me by the licensing centre and deregistered the car. I kept all the papers and printed out pictures I had of the car with the plates on. I took all of this to the examination centre, and fell on their mercy. What they did was just change the body number and engine number on the computer and allowed me to re register. So effectively instead of registering the car I had, they changed all the details of the car on the original papers which I never had and let me register it.

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67 Deluxe - Red and white
69 Deluxe - Sugercane Grey

I went thru the same issues. see post....

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... ry+numbers


As others have said, for your model, the numbers on the firewall (which should match the "Car no" on the plate) are the correct ones to use.

Problem is many mechanics think the rad cowl number is the correct one but this is not necessarily the case.

If the blue slip mechanic is unsure he should contact the RTA technical section who have the records for pre 72 cars. If they are given the "type" from the plate (eg YKG2S2 for my car) they will look up the location for correct numbers location. They have a "map" of an engine bay and use a grid reference to locate the number. My blue slipper actually showed me the "map".

I had lots of help for other forum members with this plus I also had a reply from Watto from TME mag which I have quoted below which is a excellent explanation of the ID numbers and what they mean.

copy of email from watto below......

quote...

Thanks for the info on your car.

Unfortunately, I do not have any other info on this car.

However, the number on the ID plate, which matches the number stamped into the body just below the plate is the chassis number of the car. It was stamped into the body after final assembly was complete. This is the number that should be used for the registration.

The number stamped into the radiator cowl is the body number, which was applied to the body after the panel assembly and before painting and final assembly into the completed car. This number has no relevance to the chassis number, other than it will be around 500 less than the chassis number. This is because body numbers started at 001, while chassis numbers started at 501. The reason the difference is only ever "around 500" is because if the body required two paint colours - ie for the white roof - then it would go through the paintshop twice and then be out of sequence with the other bodies. If their was a specific order for another colour that took precedence over this car then it would again be resequenced, and if any on-line rectification of minor problems was required then it would again be resequenced. I have recorded body numbers that differ from chassis numbers by as much as 480 and 530, and have only recorded to date about 6 Minis where the difference is exactly 500. If the radiator shroud has been replaced at any stage it does not affect the identity of the car, as the number there is not really relevant. If the chassis number was damaged, changed or not legible, then that would be a different story.

To confuse the issue, Minis in 1969 only had the chassis number stamped into the radiator shroud and the body number stamped into the scuttle panel drain channel. Few Minis from 1969 had ID plates or Compliance plates. Compliance plates came into effect from 1 January 1970. This only affects cars from 1969, as 1970 onwards reverted to having the chassis number stamped into the body behind the master cylinders, and the body number stamped into the rad shroud.

So, VicRoads (edit:RTA in my case) should be using the chassis number for the registration. If they want to use the body number then they are doing the wrong thing. If they insist on the issuing of a new chassis number, which will have no relevance to the period of the car's original assembly, then they are doing a dis-service to the car.

end quote

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

cheers CJ_DT that definately makes it alot easier

Sorry didn't notice you were in SA. You should be OK.

Actually thats why I had such a hassle. I brought my car from SA into NSW. So the SA rego papers only had Eng. no. and next to VIN it just says "not recorded".

But its still good to know what the numbers mean.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

hey took the forms into the registry office today , turns out who ever registered it before me had a different engine so the engine numbers dont match , so now i have to take it to regency so they can verify and record the new engine number .