I've never used it, but a friend wrapped the turbo dump pipe on his RX7 to protect the brake master. The pipe used to get red hot, the wrap worked well till a turbo oil leak made it like a wick, a few bits got damaged but nothing too bad.

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

A while back I acquired a S/H Brownrigg LCB that was wrapped, off a race car. When I unwrapped it the tubing was awfully thin.
Also was very rusted on the outside.
My theory is the pipes get way hotter, and oxidize away with the heat.

Personally I'd wrap them on a race car, but not on a roady, unless ceramic coated.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

This has been discussed thoroughly in previous posts. To summarise:

1) there's 2 camps, one says there's no problems, the other says they wear away/rust etc as the head can get red hot back there if say, racing.

Proof that it gets red hot:



2) There is a performance increase, hot air flows quicker. If you will feel this increase is debatable. It's not a definately gain like 4hp or something like that. But if you have a $10,000 1380cc with all of the goodies, then heat wrapped/ceramic coated pipes will give you that extra tiny bit more, cause hell you've already spent $10k, why not another $300 on ceramic coating?

3) Ceramic coating is the alternative which will protect the pipes and do the same thing as heat wrap, and will look BLING, the only issue is cost.

4) blinging your intake and preventing heat transfer from the extractors is another consideration, but again the increase in performance is debatable.

In the end I didn't go with any of the options. There are plenty of other mods you can do to get real HP gains so I'd look into those well before heat wrapping...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Whichever camp you choose, you should know you can get the stuff for a fraction of the price via Blackwoods in 1, 2 and 3 inch widths

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Another important point you don't want that heat inside your car on a summers day!

on top of this they tend to trap moisture, so combined with that i can see why they can cause rust.
i am however a huge fan of ceramic coating

I'd actually say that the timing is a bit retarded, just a thought.......

No it is not retarded, if anything it's several degrees advanced. This is a result of running at or near the redline on the dyno for about 2 hours straight. This was my 1330 being run in and dyno tuned a few years back on Graham Russell's dyno. I am happy to report she's still as strong as she was on day 1, all 120bhp is still there give or take.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Here we go.....

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My 1412 stroker looked just like that too, it's the result of little or no cooling airflow at the back of the engine , when running in the engine dyno room.

Here's my full frontal to go with Chong's rear view..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I set fire to the carpet in my garage while running in a camshaft in my HQ.

was that on the risk assessment?

Was the camshaft hand ground

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

Hey great topic,, one I've been pondering a couple of days actually.

I've heard the same sides of the argument you guys have all raised

"bad for longevity cos it holds the moisture in and makes them rust"

"not a drama, done it it works fine but with no real Hp advantage worth mentioning"

So, I was thinking about trying it out myself.

I actually electro-plate my extractors, .. its great for rust proofing and its inside and out plus its dirt cheap . So I don't think that I'll have the same problems with rust... (at least not for the first 20 years )
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.
.
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But my question is ---> how much heat does it keep out of the engine bay?

Reason I got thinking about it was cos the other night my car was in a situation where it ended up idling for about 35min with no air moving around the exhaust and more importantly,,,, none around the float bowls

It got so hot in there that even the dash post on the SU's were to hot too touch ,, normally they're pretty cool..

So it ended up missing really badly for a bit there untill it had a chance to cool down properly (about 10 minutes)....

Morris has said that it helped with this problem on the HQ's... but how effective was it?

Any numbers on what kind of reduction in engine bay heat you can expect?

EDIT--> spelling

my experience: you have to paint the wrap (there is paint for this) to keep the moisture out. than it won't rust as bad as not painted.
the engine bay is much cooler.

but the much higher heat inside the wrap burns the carbon out of the steel. i know as i had the flakes analysed

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Rover 214 atm ....