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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 6:49 pm 
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Michael if the pedal is not hitting the floor I would suspect the slave cylinder circlip as Simon says.
This thing really has no function once the cylinder is installed, I'd pop it out and try again.
As flywheels get lapped onto cranks,clutch arms wear, thrust washers get changed, etc etc the whole flywheel assembly gets closer to the block and the slave runs out of travel.
There are other ways to rectify this but removing the circlip is quick and easy, with no detriment.

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Last edited by drmini in aust on Wed Oct 13, 2010 6:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 6:49 pm 
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mickmini wrote:
Could the macining of the posts have moved the thrust plate too far away from the wok, thus reducing the available stroke of the slave piston?


dunno - depends how much the little amount off the posts equates to at the end of the arm

it only takes 5 seconds to flip the boot off the slave and get your missus to put her foot on the clutch


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 6:52 pm 
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The last 2 clutch assys I've done for people needed around .070" off the posts. This is due to facing of flywheel and backplate surfaces over the years.
Sounds normal to me.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:05 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Michael if the pedal is not hitting the floor I would suspect the slave cylinder circlip as Simon says.
This thing really has no function once the cylinder is installed, I'd pop it out and try again.
As flywheels get lapped onto cranks,clutch arms wear, thrust washers get changed, etc etc the whole flywheel assembly gets closer to the block and the slave runs out of travel.
There are other ways to rectify this but removing the circlip is quick and easy, with no detriment.


Thanks Kev. I hope it is as easy as that :!:

how much travel do you gain from ditching the circlip and how much before it pops out (well ok it is more likely to leak fluid past the circlip groove, but you know what I mean)?

cheers
michael

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:14 pm 
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Ive been through all this and had the posts machined to get the diaphram flat. All working well now - however the root of my clutch problem was a bent clutch arm . This prevented the clutch disengaging properly and was ugly! It was hard to tell , but the very tip of the arm (at plunger end) was bent which made a huge difference at the other end. Before you do anything else , check the arm against another. Try an old one or get a new one.

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 Post subject: Re: Another clutch issue
PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:19 pm 
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mickmini wrote:
J

........ or I have assembled something wrong like the driven plate being reversed. Would this produce this symptom?



Every time I do a clutch job, I have to think. Yep, as per the manual, the hub/boss faces away from the flywheel/towards the engine.

Signs of dementia :cry:


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 Post subject: Re: Another clutch issue
PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:22 pm 
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mickmini wrote:
J

........ or I have assembled something wrong like the driven plate being reversed. Would this produce this symptom?



Every time I do a clutch job, I have to check. The hub/boss faces away from the flywheel/towards the engine.

Signs of dementia :cry:


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:24 pm 
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Its Marcel Chichak by the way, that wrote that excellent article.

If it turns out to be the circlip in the slave cylinder, you can add 1/2" or so to the plunger arm, to push the piston back in the slave cylinder.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:50 pm 
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justminis wrote:
Its Marcel Chichak by the way, that wrote that excellent article.

If it turns out to be the circlip in the slave cylinder, you can add 1/2" or so to the plunger arm, to push the piston back in the slave cylinder.


oops, got the name wrong. it was late last night when i wrote it.

Can you just get a longer rod off another application?

Maybe an adjustable rod is a good idea?

thinking too far ahead there, need to measure tonight.

cheers
michael

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 8:10 pm 
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An easier way if the wok is off- put a flat washer behind the release bearing. :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 8:38 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
An easier way if the wok is off- put a flat washer behind the release bearing. :wink:


between the shoulder of the plunger and the bearing?

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 8:42 pm 
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yes. This pushes the whole lot back including the clutch arm and the slave pushrod.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 9:05 pm 
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yep, just need to work out how thick, assuming that this is the actual problem.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 10:08 pm 
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take the pin out of the clutch arm to the slave cylinder. push the slave right back until it bottoms out and then pull the clutch arm until it pushes the thrust onto the pressure plate. measure the distance between the hole in the slave rod and the hole in the clutch arm. that's how much "loss" of movement you have. You might have to make up a extension piece and weld to the end of the slave rod . IE like adjustable rod.
I usually make a new rod to suit after I have machined the crap off flywheels and back plates.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 10:54 pm 
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david rosenthal wrote:
take the pin out of the clutch arm to the slave cylinder. push the slave right back until it bottoms out and then pull the clutch arm until it pushes the thrust onto the pressure plate. measure the distance between the hole in the slave rod and the hole in the clutch arm. that's how much "loss" of movement you have. You might have to make up a extension piece and weld to the end of the slave rod . IE like adjustable rod.
I usually make a new rod to suit after I have machined the crap off flywheels and back plates.


always good to hear your input Dave.

Sounds like this might be the best solution, pending measurements tonight.

Thanks

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It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates ;-)


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