does feel like a lack of spark...

I didn't drive it last week, I have had NGK's die after sitting for a little while after being fuelled up

good differential diagnosis happening - anyone watch House?

Actually I'd say this is really bad diagnosis....but unless it's something really oddball it should get there

sometimes it's good to see what comes out, there are some interesting ideas at times

I think my float level is off, it's getting too much fuel and has snotted up the plugs and killed them

Don't throw them out- heat the business end with a gas torch and when the electrode insulator goes red, `ping' the crap will all vaporize. new plugs again...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

that was the plan, however the plugs look fine - though the gaps were wider than they should be... I think the electrodes have been getting too hot as it's been pinging a little bit too - which would indicate that it's running lean, no?

plugs look like #17 or #18 on here: http://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark ... talog.html

I've been having the same issues with my car, missing while accelerating, under load.

I think it's moisture getting into the VR sensor on the megajolt. When I leave the car for 2 months and drive again, its ok. Then go through big puddles, problem re-occurs. Haven't had much time to look into the problem further I'm afraid.

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tim
68 Deluxe 1293, HIF44, megajolt/EDIS4, daihatsu alternator..

'a mini is for life, not just for christmas!'

It's the magnetic leadlight you left under the car dragging on the ground on left hand off camber corners slowing the car down and simulating a misfire, and if you don't change the wheel nuts NOW the car will burst into flames spontaneously and die!

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hmm, that's a wierd one... give all the connectors a good clean....

I just discovered that I should be using resistor spark plugs with the megajolt - but more that I should be using 7 or 8 heat range plugs with the poopercharger. BPR7ES I think

I've run standard and resistive leads, with no discernable change between them...

Regarding the ingress of moisture, it is strange, the connectors are supposed to be totally waterproof.. The o-ring seal is located in the connector. I will have to put some silicon around where the wires enter the plastic housing.


Anyway best of luck with the diagnosis, I have no furthe ideas!

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tim
68 Deluxe 1293, HIF44, megajolt/EDIS4, daihatsu alternator..

'a mini is for life, not just for christmas!'

A while back I was having similar issues

I felt that the needles were not lifting smoothly. I pulled down the carbies and gave them a good clean and made sure the jets were perfectly centered and the piston rose and fell smoothly.

Also installed a new fuel filter.

Problems solved.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

I recently had a similar problem, but it only happened when it was cold. Turned out to be the jet sticking after using the choke - when I pushed it back to the fast idle, the jet stuck a little too low, and only jumped back into place when the choke was pushed in all the way.

Still a small problem, I just need to start it, put my foot on the accelerator, push the choke back in all the way, and then take it out enough for the fast idle, but not far enough for the jet lowering again. Otherwise it starts misfiring terribly.

I richened it up a little last night, and regapped the plugs, but same deal today. I bought the new plugs on the way to work so will put them in before I go home and see how it goes



there was a good thread a few weeks ago about centring the jet - you ought to have a go at that

It's not hard to take a carb off and play with it on the bench to see what sticks and where. One of the first things I ever taught myself to do was clean & refit a carb

well - plugs didn't make a difference, but I went to see my guru, and when I explained the problem he said "leads, maybe coil pack", and then did something really cool -

he got out his timing light and put it on each of the leads - it was pretty obvious they weren't sparking the same.... very simple way to spot missing sparks

a couple of the posts in the coil pack are badly corroded. Cleaned them up and it runs fine now, but I've pinched the coil pack off dad's car, and I'll find another one

I was hoping it was a carb issue

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Hmmm... I might have a look at that, but I don't think that't the problem. The previous owner had tuned the carby with the choke - the idle screw wasn't even used, and in normal operation the jet was left a little open. The idle speed was determined by where the choke was when it was pushed in all the way. I think it sticks where the jet used to sit for normal operation.