Here goes nothing....

I’m probably going to live to regret this .... but this is how I do them... works for me... not saying that anyone elses method is wrong just saying this is what I do.. Its a amalgamation of some of the stuff I've learnt and practices of my own that I have developed.

All I set out to do here is outline how, I, do a basic rebuild on a standard motor.... I use some different practices on hotter motors... I'm not talking about intial start up, or run in, or any of that... Just how I put the pieces together.

I AM NOT CLAIMING TO BE ANY KIND OF GURU... So if you spot anything I've missed, or anything you think is blatently wrong go for it. Tell us what you do differently Treat this as a platform that other (more)knowledgeable people can add to. I'm hoping to learn something out of this too


*slips into flame proof suit before he starts*





One thing I do with everyone of my engines is log everything in a spec sheet as I measure it, torque, time it... And yeah I do have obsesive compolsive disorder but in all seriousness, it comes very handy later down the track if you need to remember what it was when you put it together.


You might think I go overboard with some of my deburing and block prep... but I have 2 reasons for it.....


1. A burr kicked up the wrong way can stop two faces mating properly

2. As an apprentice, anytime you give a machined job to your foreman with burrs on it, he grabs your hand and presses your fingers into it and runs your fingers over the burr... you only forget a few times







Block prep

DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE PLACE BLOCK ON ANY SURFACE EXCEPT MAYBE CARDBOARD OR A SOFT PILE OF RAGS WITH THE GASKET FACE FACING DOWN OR YOU WILL MOST LIKELY DAMAGE IT.


Any thing with a thread in it, I just run the appropriate tap thru it to clean it up just incase.

1. Before you clean the block inspect it. Starting on the deck, have a look at your stud holes. I counter bore them using a drill just 1-2mm larger in diametre than the hole... if you use a proper counter bore you will end up with the hole at the surface too large. All I seek to do is remore the first 3-4 threads so that when the head is torqued up, its pulling from below the surface. This stops you pulling the gasket surface up around the stud hole and creating a high spot and potential leak point... This is a trick I picked up from working with my old man. I then lightly counter sink the stud holes, and deburr all the other holes... don’t go overboard deburring, you’re just taking the sharpe edge off... on some engines (other than A series) you’ll have problems if you go crazy with it and countersink these holes as some may come past the firing rings.


2. Using an oil stone, I rub down the deck using a figure 8 pattern. Make sure you cover the whole deck evenly, and apply even pressure. Whipe and clean off deck. Then using a straight edge and feeler gauges, check it for flatness. I do it like this..... run the straight edge along the deck, down the center then try and poke a feeler gauge under it ANYWHERE... you're looking for as close to absolute flatness as possible and no more warpage than the allowable amount (again check manual). Repeat this procedure 5mm from either edge, then on a diagonal then the other diagonal

3. At either end of the block, (transfer housing face and water pump end) give it the same treatment, deburr all holes and give it a rub down with the oil stone. caution with the recess for the oil pump, do not countersink any of these holes as you may affect the way the pump seals... I’m probably parnoid, but I don’t do it and I’ve never had a problem

4. Flip the block over. Same deal, deburr, stone. WITH THE MAIN CAPS AND HOLES FOR THE MAIN CAPS IN THE BLOCK, make sure the dowell holes are countersunk at least 0.5mm (0.020”)... In ANYTHING where dowells are used as a RULE the dowell holes must be counter sunk. This eleminates (or greatly reduces) a shear effect that can take place... Its not something that I've seen mentioned in Automotive circles but any Fitter Machinists or Toolmakers reading this would should be familiar with what I'm reffering too. Also have a look at the edges of the bearing tunnels and make sure there are no burrs... if there are, just polish out the bur with a needle file being careful not to touch the area where the shell sits. While you’re down here, you may like to deburr the bottom of the edge of the bores.... the reason I do, is so when I’m cleaning I don’t cut my precious hands ... I then run the stone over the gasket face on the sump rail just to clean it more than anything.


Block clean up


5. Clean out oil ways and water jacket on block. I use special nylon pipe cleaners for all the drillings. I use Kero in my parts cleaner, other people use Disease-al or even petrol, your choice use what makes you happy. Be thorogh and take your time. If you’ve had your block chemically cleaned do not assume it doesn’t have sediment sitting in places, be just as thorough. Let the “cleaning agent of your choice” drain out as much as posible. Don’t forget to clean out all the threaded holes too.

6. Place in engine stand (or on a clean bench). Using a clean rag whipe of any kero you may have missed. Then, the fun part. Cleaning all the honing residue out of the bores *YAY* so what I do here is using ya mums finest paper towells, I put a bit of clean engine oil on them and scrub the bores.... after about 10 seconds you’ll have a look at the paper towell and see its black as the ace of spades. That black stuff is Carborundum... its what the honing stones are made out of and is incredibly abrassive.... so GET RID OF IT ALL or it will turn your oil into lapping paste and wear your honing out in minutes maybe hours Don’t stop scrubing till the towells are coming out as clean as they went in.. THEN repeat using Thinners instead of oil. You might ask why I don’t do it dry? Well, have a look for yourself, get it as clean as you can dry, then oil one up and rub it again and see how clean they really are... you’ll be suprised.... I've also seen people do it using hot soapy water, infact its what Grant Piston Rings recomend. I've done that too... but I preffer using oil and then thinners to clean it out, I'm personally just nervous about putting water in a freshly machined bore (I know, call me stupid )

7. Clean and dry all bearing tunnels. Do not leave any oil or kero on the face of these.

measuring time

Clean crank up with the same vigor you attacked the block with. I use the same nylon pipe cleaners in the crank oilways.. and I made a tap (you might be able to buy one) for cleaning the crap out of the threads on the ends of the crank.

Measure up the journels. Please do this with a micrometer. Please check that it has been zero’d correctly.

1. Measure the journels on at 4 planes (think union jack pattern) and log the sizes so you a) know what size it was and b) can check for obvious ovality. Be careful around the oil holes our you might end up reading 0.040” ovality make sure its on spec with what ever grind you were up to.

2. Check the crank for any bending. I do this using a Dial gauge and a pair of V blocks. If you don’t have V blocks, you’ll probably get away with loading the main bearing shells into block and sitting the crank with some oil on them. Set your Dial gauge ove the centre main, zero it and slowly turn the crank. The Clock should stay on zero. Refer to the workshop manual to see what the acceptable amount of bend is (there is a tolerance on everything) and if there is a bend, make sure its within spec

3. Check your bearing shells thoroghly. Make sure there is no dags on them and that back and bearing faces are clean and smooth.

4. Have a look at the main shells (big ends are the same), you’ll see they have a tang. If you look at the cap and tunnel, you’ll see that there is also a seat for the tang. IT PUTS THE TANG IN THE TANG HOLE. The shells are a tight fit into the tunnels so don’t be to worried, and just be carefull that you don’t scrape some of the backing off when sliding it into the tunnel or the material scraped off will sit just on the edge of the shell and stop the cap mating properly. Do not put any oil on the back of the bearing shell (for obvious reasons, but I watched a mate of mine do it once).

5. With the shells in the block and in the caps, oil the bearing face’s like its going out of fashion, then place the crank in the block and give it a spin. Should spin so freely that when you flick your wrist it spins for half a sec longer under its own inertia. While your here, squirt a couple of drops of oil down the oil drillings in the crank.. why not

6. Drop the thrust bearings into the centre main, again there is one side with a tang, so think about where you are installing what.

7. Oil up the bearing in the caps and put them on. You should have dowells to locate the caps before you run the bolt into them. Don’t forget the thrust bearings for the center cap.... and as to what way around the caps go.. have a look at the tang in the shell, the tang should go on the same side as the tang in the shell in the block. Starting at main number 1, torque up one bolt and spin. It should still spin just as freely. The torque up the other bolt and spin again. It should still spin freelly. Continue this all the way to the 6th bolt on the third cap. If at any point it stops spining freely stop, disassemble and check your crank for journel size and straightness again. If its fine but still wont spin freely check you do infact have the right bearing shells. Where bearing clearance is concerned, the easiest way to measure it is using a product called plastigauge, flow the instructions in the packet and you’ll be able to measure the running clearance. I use it to log all my crank clearances.

8. Then after all the caps are tight, check bearing crush. To do this, I back off one of the bolts on each main, and slide a feeler gauge under the cap. Check the manual for correct bearing crush. You measure the crush amount with a feeler gauge.. so if its 0.004”, you’ll only get a 0.004” strip in there... make sense?

9. Then check your end float. You can do this by pushing your crank all the way into the thrust washers and sliding a feeler gauge into the gap between the trust and trust face on the crank (the loose side).... or the way I do it, is stand the engine on end, using a dial gauge I take a measurement then slide the crank up (or down) into a trust face and take a reading off the dial gauge.

I know it sounds wanky, but I do it that way because the thrust seats in the block aren’t always square.. you’ll see that if you look at a worn thrust bearing. So you’ll get 30 different measurements with a feeler gauge and none of them will be a true endfloat.

10. Clean up your pistons and rods.

11. Assemble pistons onto rods. Depending on what you have, the gudgeon pin might be held in with circlips or they might be pressed into the little end. Once assembled make sure you can rock the piston back and forth freely. It should literally go “clunk cluck” back and forth, if there is any resistance stop and work out why.

12. Rings. Place each of your compression rings into a bore, and using a piston (turned upside down) I push them down square into the bore by about 20mm. Then using a feeler gauge I check the gap in the ring. Check the work shop manual for what the tolerance in ring gaping is to make sure its on spec

13. Once all gaps are checked I assemble the rings onto the pistons, starting with the oil control rings. Make sure all the gaps are offest. I try to avoid lining up the gaps with either the left or right side of the motor (front or back in a mini) so that the piston isn’t thrusting on them.. another habit I inherited from my dad

14. I fit in the bore ( before I compress the rings and slide them right in). Place each piston into its bore and measure the piston to bore clearance with a feeler gauge. Make sure its within the piston manufacturers spec as in the guys that made the piston. Different brands of piston expand at different rates and amounts so they will all have their own specifications. It is critical its within spec for warranty and also to make sure you don’t end up with stupid blow by or a seized motor.

15. Put the piston in the ring compressor (and oil the inside of the compressor). Make sure you don’t spin the rings acccidently while tightening it up. Get it firm in your hands, then slide the rod and piston down the bore till the compressor is touching the deck, then gently tap the edge of the compressor all the way around the edge to make sure it is sitting flat. THEN push the piston into the bore using the butt of a mallet handle. If it stops, don’t force it, you could snap the rings , so you’ll need to pull it out and start again. If you have a lot of trouble, after you tap down the compressor, just lift the whole lot out of the bore by a couple of mm and squirt a load of oil around the edge of the piston. Sometime the chamfer at the top of the bore will catch the rings, so the oil helps “fill the gap”

16. Get one piston in at a time and put the cap on it with oil, exactly the same as with the mains, (as in how to put the shell in, and oiling and check bearing crush etc)

17. Bolt on engine plate with gasket

18. Bolt oil pump on with gasket

19. Insert cam followers with a slather of oil

20. Insert cam.... Cam end float is something that gets asked about at bit... Cam lobes (at least in these engines) are ground wit a slight angle on them (as in the faces are not parralell to the core) and this spins the followers... due to the spining action, it thrusts the cam against the thrust plate on the engine plate,,, so while the engine is running, the cam will never thrust the otherway... so don’t worry about cam endfloat...

21. If new cam followers are being used or a new cam (in which case get new followers anyway), get some “cam run in lube” on the lobes... if you can’t find any, I know people that have used CV grease for the same job and gotten away with it nooooo worries A big thing with most steels is that after they are ground, they do not readily except oil, and with fresh followers and cams they need lube... but the splash from the crank doesn't cut it until they are run in... there are processes for making steels except oil after they're ground (like acid etching for one) but most new cams (or re grinds) won't have this... so having lube on there helps them out while they run in.

22. Bolt cam thrust plate to engine plate

23. Push timing sprockets onto the cam and crank (little one on crank, big one on cam)... push them all the way down. Now, push the cam back and forth into the thrust plate making sure its not stuck, it should still slide either way. Now push cam into thrust plate, put a straight edge across both sprokets and make sure that they are on the same plane... if there are any gaps under the straight edge, measure with feeler gauges and shim the low sprocket accordingly.

24. Remove sprokets. Place chain over sprockets and line up the two dots on the sprokets.... GUYS I KNOW THIS ISN’T A GARENTEED 110 DEGRESS (As per timing for most std cams) but I’m not going to spend another hour righting a how to on dialing in cams ... for most std road applications lining up the dots is fine... and then push back onto crank and cam

25. Put timing chaing cover on with gasket... make sure the lower bolts down’t poke thru the engine plate far enough to stop the gear box going on

head prep

I don’t want to start a fight about whether or not you should lap valves.... so I’ll skip that part.... I do it, I think Matt does too... but I know its one of
those “taboo” topics in some automotive circles so I’ll leave that one alone.

DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE PLACE HEAD ON ANY SURFACE EXCEPT MAYBE CARDBOARD OR A SOFT PILE OF RAGS WITH THE GASKET FACE FACING DOWN OR YOU WILL MOST LIKELY DAMAGE IT.

1. As was the case with the block, lightly debur all holes, and touch up all threads with a tap. With the combustion chambers I run a file over the edge of them to get rid of any burr and ever so slightly round the edge off to remove any potential "Glow plugs" (I just mean hot spots that can cause pinging). Then oil stone the gasket face in a figure 8, even pressure and cover the whole face.

2. I wash it just like the block, every nock and crany, don’t forget threaded holes

3. Let it drain off. Then using a straight edge and feeler gauges, check it for flatness. I run the straight edge along the deck, down the center then try and poke a feeler gauge under it ANYWHERE... you're looking for as close to absolute flatness as possible and no more warpage than the allowable amount (again check manual). Repeat this procedure 5mm from either edge, then on a diagonal then the other diagonal

4. Get your valves and place into guides with a smear of oil over the stems. Flick them open and closed a few times to make sure they are free in the guides.

5. Place the valve stem seal over the valve stem and hard into the guide,, then place bottom retainer over valve guide, then spring(s), then top retainer.. Then using a valve spring compressor (or press) push the valve springs down and place the tappered locking keepers into the top of the top retainer and slowly release. They will lock themselves into the goove in the valve stem and the tapper in the top retainer


And that is your head assembled.


Putting the head on the block

1. Run head studs into the block with a bit of oil on the threads finger tight... some like to use loctite down here... I don’t personally, just my choice, I just do them up finger tight.

2. Have a final look at the deck and make sure its clean

3. Place WHAT EVER BLOODY HEAD GASKET MAKES YOU HAPPY over the studs correct way up etc I would suggest applying it dry, but there are sealers specially designed for head gaskets if you preffer.... JUST DON'T USE SILASTIC OR SOMETHING like one of my mates Dads was trying to do with his truck today

4. Drop the head on it

5. Run your rocker post studs into the head

6. Drop push rods into their holes

7. Place rocker gear on head (after its pulled apart and washed)

8. Tighten up the rocker studs that are not also head studs

9. Start torquing down the head.... NOW.... ..... there are a million different opinions on how to do this... this is how I do it and my logic.. you do it how ever makes you happy ...... oil the threads.... run the nuts on and before they hit the head, squirt a bit of oil under them.... starting with the stud in the middle on the distributor side, torque it down to 10ft/Ibs... then the one on the back just left of center down to 10ft/Ibs... the one in the back row just right of center 10ft/Ibs.. now the one in the front row right of center... the one front row left of center... basically in a spiral patteren all the way out to the either end of the head. Once they’re all at 10ft/Ibs repeat the same pattern down to 20ft/Ibs... then 30ft/Ibs... then 35ft/Ibs then to what ever the specified torque is for the studs you’re using.... then back them off half a turn and do them back up to the final loading.

I picked this method up from a good friend of mine who is a Motorcylce Mechanic. I find it easier than trying to remember what number stud to do next

What ever pattern you tighten it in, start from the center and work outwards. And I personally wouldn't recomend reefing it down to full tention in one hit.



After that, all you need to do is bolt on your water pump,, Gearbox and transfer houseing.... clutch/flywheel.... harmonic balancer.... and at that point its just dizzy and ancilaries......oh, and the rocker cover (do it up firm, not tight or the gasket will leak)..


OH and if you’ve had plugs out of the block... make sure they’re the first thing to go back in

Alright guys.... what have I missed? What do you do different? Thoughts? Ideas.... I spent 2 hours writing this so I expect some good bashing here

Alex

_________________
tim
68 Deluxe 1293, HIF44, megajolt/EDIS4, daihatsu alternator..

'a mini is for life, not just for christmas!'

Thanks Phat Kat, very informative read most of which I'll put into practice sometime in the coming weeks when work quiets down and I can get some mini action happening again.....

No worries... but I'd hold out and see what other info people can add to it incase I've missed anything

Yeah, I'd say that covers about 10% of it

_________________

Good work Phat Cat lots of things to watch for. I'm interested in the comment
Should you label them on dissassembly so they go back in the same spot? if they don't "wear square" and you put them in a different spot you would only be wearing on part of the thrust faces? (hope that makes sense)

_________________
Cheers
PeterN
3x Leylands
1x 850
Mildura,
Victoria.

the crank can go in both ways make sure you get it the right way.

Also, Plastiguage you big end bearings.

_________________

If there is nothinng wrong with your old ones the sure, thats not a bad idea. But if they're worn, just buy new ones Oh and check the endfloat on your old ones to make sure its not excessive. Most people (myself included) like to run a little extra endfloat anyway.



Thanks for picking that up, I should have been clearer, you can use the plastigauge for more than just your mains, so yes, check your big ends with it too

Good one Kat.
NOTE TO ALL READERS Please disregard my earlier post where I started the How To and use Phat Kat's. However, thanks all for the feedback.

There's only one bit I would question though, and that's step 19 where you say to put in the cam followers. If you put them in prior to the cam shaft, they're just going to fall through. Suggest you move this step to the end of that section.

Cheers and Happy New Year to all

_________________
Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

If it's a non-S 1275 though, as there's no side covers the followers MUST be fitted first. With the block upside down..

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

hee hee,,, yep , when building your first "non-side-plate" engine after many side plate ones--> you`ll only stuff that one up once

well done phatty, i`ll read it all through later & check ,,,too much there for me right now, i`m told that i`m going shopping right now

oh!!!!!!!! & maybe i don`t own ""The Longest Post Title" now hey?

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Sorry Mate I had to read that a few times... I was scratching my head going "If you put the cam in first.. how the hell are you going to get the followers in?" you can probably tell I don't do many small bore motors Thanks Rodney

Thanks Doc for filling in the blank

And Matt, I'm sure you could easily out post the hell out of me Look forward to hearing what you think.

all sounds really good Phatty, well done mate,,, & i hope people appreciate the amount of time "I Know" he spent on typing this stuff up,,, Let-alone the amount of time it takes to learn/experience this stuff to be able to know what to type-->so anyone who bags phatty --->can go suck dogs-balls

i`d just like to mention that a damn big motha air compressor is the go with regards to helping the cleaning process & "The Phat" is quite correct with cleaning cleaning cleaning,,, i also don`t let any machined surfaces dry out so if there`s any water used i always spray (Liberally) with Inox or whatever IMEDIATELY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.... a lightweight oil is also one of the very best cleaning agents you can get, even wd40 , CRC or Inox is brilliant also, so , again Phat has proven excellent wonderful suggestions to those who are not already using same/said products with cleaning bores & main caps etc

I don`t "Wipe" the bearing-shell white-metal surfaces with anything,,, just oil them massively!!!! I do however wipe the back of the bearings , you should really really clean them very very well as there is a protective coating on the bare steel backing & it "may" (read->usually does) tighten up the crush on the bearings when fitted & tightened, so as Phat says,,, no oil, no lube, no nothing, clean & dry on the back of the bearings & don`t "Wipe" the bearing surfaces as you may (often will) wipe minute/weeny/small/microscopic bits of grit into the white-metal/lead/alu-tin (whatever they`re made of),,, have a gork through a magnifying glass with good lighting & you`ll see what i mean,,, then oil them & watch the oil run-off taking all those bits with it,,,, so---> heaps of oil & keep washing with heaps of oil

I use machined tapered piston ring fitting sleeves for fitting pistons into the bores, & yes years ago we made one for every size mini bore & have them on a rack, all numbered ready to go,,, no clamping up thin tin wrapped crappoy ring compressor crap things for me (yes i`m spoilt) did i mention how crap those clap up things are???

However,,, when fitting the pistons , make sure you have each (respective) big end journal @ bottom dead centre & either cover the big end bolts with a rubber condom or grab them with your hands "WELL" before they reach """anywhere near""" the big end journal,,, all good having prepared all your components only to bump a big-end bolt onto a bearing journal, OUCH!!!

the timing gears---> i don`t use the shims under the crank gear,,,, they "can" tend to break up & hence fall into the engine & now you also have a loose front pulley,,, best way i`ve found is to work out how far the sprockets are miss-alinged & machine (use a lathe & clock up the Cam gear true) trim down both the cam-gear abutment area & it`s thrust shoulder to the correct amount,,, no dicky shims to break up & fall out,,, & if you`ve done your measurements & machining right, all will be peachy

leave your timing cover loose (obviously with the seal & Gskt already fitted into the cover) & then fit the front pulley on & jiggle it a tad to make sure it`s centered well,,, "THEN" nip up all your bolts,,, no (or less chance of) front oil seal leaks this way (if your cover is straight) & i always use a smear of gasket goo on the timing cover gasket too,,, no too much to spirt out & drop big slithers of goo inside your engine,,, (i smear it around thin & even with my fingers)

My head-work is secret womens business,,, no kiss & tell here i`m sorry

I use a mix of Moly grease & STP for both cam lube & lifter lube (1/2 -1/2)

I """ALWAYS""" fill the oil pump with straight STP & run it through, back & forth to make sure it`s stuck real good to all oil pump surfaces , before fitting the pump to the block,,, never takes any longer than 10 secs to get oil pressure, even if the engine has sat for 3 years before initial start up,,, i recently had the diss-pleasure to attempt to finish off a car build for a customer & it`s "supposed" reco engine built by another Brisbane based mini specialist & after a few mins of trying to get oil pressure up, to no avail-->i gave up , pulled the engine out & stripped the engine down & the pump was dry as a bone,,, "Obviously" no lube of any kind , what-so-ever"!!!!!!!!!!!---> Amongst many other major dramas---> sickening!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

& honestly i really don`t care much for using Vaseline for the oil pump either,,, it just seems to clump-up dry-ish & not goo up the gears anywhere near as good as Thick goo-y STP

edit--> I always allow way more clearance between the center main cap & the lower thrust-halves,,, 10-15thou+ here is good to allow the crank to flex without pushing (back-&-forth) on the main-cap

Probly more info to type on this topic than just this lot, but still, it`s now time to eat more caramel slice,,, YUM !!! good stuff tho Phatty , well presented too

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Cheers Matt


You're not wrong mate, there is a hell of a lot to remember to think of typing... I was reading back through everyone else's comments going "oh yeah, the thing with the offset rods, should have mentioned that" and your tip that you just mentioned with turning the crank over to BDC when installing pistons.. totally forgot about it...... And like yourself I wrap the big end bolts in electrical tap when I'm putting them in (sorry never seen a condom that small Do they make them that small? You're right you're right... its not the size that counts )

A lot of great ideas, tips and details that I didn't mention... Thanks Matt... like the trick with the harmonic balancer in the timing cover (with the seal) to line it up the cover with the crank instead of the bolt holes in the engine plate... And then some more points like what you say with not shimming the timing gears, I too have started machining ""some"" sprockets in ""some"" instances... but for the average joe who doesn't have a lathe I figure that shiming is probably still alright most of the time... I agree though, machining them to the right size is prefferable (especially as the shims seem to only go up in 0.005" increments )

What you say with the Vaseline, I have heard of people doing it, but I've never bothered to try it.. good to hear from someone else who has tried it and found it to be crap though
.
.
.
Yeah you are right, there is going to be a lot of other little ideas and tricks to add here ...Thanks Matt .... How's the caramel slice?

That is a heck of a how to. Well done PK.

I use short lengths of clear plastic tube over the con-rod bolts. If I can remember where I put them.