Cooper, email replied to.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc.

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http://www.rylstoneclassic.com

I have intsalled the rear brackets and will be putting on the front parts later this week. It's a pretty strait forward process. If you have any questions about it pm me

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"if its got tits or tires it'll cost yah"

Whipped this up for my attempt at a home made camber gauge. Good news to on postage. Full kit and a set of mats are on their way for only $212. Awesome.

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http://www.rylstoneclassic.com

Was under the car up on the hoist with the zorst man this morning. I cant see where the rear camber brackets go. Does anyone have a pic/diagram of where I need to look? Again, apologies for the 'N00b'ness of the question!

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http://www.rylstoneclassic.com

Hi,

Do you mind sharing the discount code for Minispares?? I am hoping to do an order this month as well.

Thanks
Minimad

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You can take the boy out of the racer.........but not the racer out of the boy!

CJANDISCOUNT gives 7.5%. It adds up!

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http://www.rylstoneclassic.com

Thnaks

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You can take the boy out of the racer.........but not the racer out of the boy!

Found it.

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http://www.rylstoneclassic.com

Surely the reason you but an adjustable front end is simply so that you can adjust it, or have it adjusted by professionals to suit your needs! A must in any type of motorsport.
Thanks for the nifty apps anyway.
H

Correct Haydn, on all counts. I want to know what I'm adjusting and what happens so I can play/tune/fiddle/tweak.

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http://www.rylstoneclassic.com

Our first adjustable front lower arms were "home made" with spherical heim joints as were the rear adjustable trumpets and rear camber brackets (though the brackets are easy and reliable assuming you've got new or good used ones to modify). Geeez we got away with it all.

TIP #1 - don't buy anything less than aircraft grade heim joints.

Tip #2 - shield the spacers and heim joints with grease filled rubber hose.

Tip #3 - use simple garbage ties to locate your 2 up loading on adjustable rears so extending for full load can be easily done without remembering how many turns to count etc. It's simple and visual.

Later we bought the real thing but still had bronze spacers made up for the "wiggly pin" to locate the lower arm.

At the end of the day a laser alignment shop operated by a Mini man will get you close...only close, because there are so many variables like, how much will your mate riding in the offside seat weigh?

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Select a gear, bring up the revs and release the clutch...off you go!

For the record...I set up my sedan to have "about" 1 deg. negative camber F/R. 3.5 deg. caster, standard toe out at front and zero toe at rear. This suits longer trips on major highways and gives useful grip on the twisties.

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Select a gear, bring up the revs and release the clutch...off you go!

I was planning to buy the same kit but in the end I just ordered the front. Wish I had the rears as the front is now spot on - but needs some serious work on the rear arms.

I ordered the Minispares ones as pictured as these were recommended by a few Mini repairers over the Huddesfield type.

BTW - cost $60 to have set up at the local Pedders shop (who just happens to drive a 67 Deluxe!)

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

I've been told (not totally sure it's true) that fitting Heim/Rose joints is illegal for street use here in NSW.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.