Harley:
Plenty could be said about this contribution.
Do you actually have proof that Jaycar is misleading people with their advertising re: code hopping? If so, take it to Fair Trading. If you don't, then your commentary is just misleading. Given Jaycar don't manufacture all of their stock, stating that Jaycar quality is poor is like saying all of Coles' breakfast cereal stock is bad. Well, it depends doesn't it. Do you prefer Weet Bix or Vita Brits? (Disclaimer: I'm NOT a Jaycar employee). In any case, it all just looks like a way to introduce the sales pitch for your second hand gear.
Oh, and code hopping is a nonsense issue. Yes it is good to have it but it is not a security silver bullet. If I want to steal your Mini I can do it with 3 lengths of wire, a large screwdriver and some sticky-tape - I don't need to scan your remote control codes. These systems will prevent casual thieves, joyriders and vandals. It may, with remote start, introduce conveniences. But if someone wants your Mini they're taking it. My point is it will be stolen by someone with basic electronics skills long before it is stolen by a professional thief with RF scanners. Funny story - I left the Moke at a friends house after having a few too many drinks, got a cab home. Bummed a lift the next day back to the Moke but I forgot the keys... I still drove home under my own steam. It even has an alarm and an immobiliser.
Seifer: Your solution looks like it will work, and I hope it does, as I think it has been developed off the back of my suggestion a few months ago. I can't help but think though that you'll be better off purchasing a proper kit as the duplication of control boxes firing off commands to other control boxes via home-brew electronics is likely to fail at some point and will be a pain in the neck to troubleshoot. The advantage of a single device is that if it fails you can unwire it or even buy a new one and plug it straight in using the wiring harness block - unhook the toasted one, hook up the new one and the whole thing should spring to life once you pair the remotes.
If you do decide to go ahead with the home-brew, make sure you build it into a single box and wire it up neatly. Not only will this make it much easier to troubleshoot, it will also be more intimidating for a would be thief to undo and rewire in order to steal the car. I would suggest using an ABS or aluminium project case such as this:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HB5064&keywords=abs+box&form=KEYWORD.
I was going to suggest mounting it under the seat or similar because you'll want the voltage regulator dry, dust and vibration free as it will be the weakest link, but if it runs your locks as well as your alarm and remote start you may want to have it in the engine bay in case it packs it in and you need to access it - you don't want to be locked out when it dies.
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also with these remote starts, can you press a button just to switch the acc/ignition on? Remember im trying to bypass the key all together.
This really depends on the system you concoct or the system you buy. Most retail systems are designed so that while the remote start will run the engine, you still need the key (to deactivate the steering lock as mentioned by Kirby) but there is often some sort of interconnection so the system will turn the engine off if it is put into gear without the key in the ignition as well so if you want to A) turn on the ACC/IGN circuit without starting the car you'll probably have to set that up on its own button as the retail systems roll both IGN and Solenoid on to one button and B) consider how you will spoof the system into thinking there is a key present when there isn't one.
The four button remote relay system I suggested earlier will allow all of this but you'll have to press the buttons specific for each function - a bit less user friendly but you can set it up exactly how you want it. EG: Press 1 to deactivate alarm (pulse alarm remote via home-brew interconnect). Press 2 to latch ACC circuit. Press 3 to latch IGN circuit. Press 4 to pulse solenoid for starter.
The biggest issue I see with remote start though is much less technical - it's that you have to remember to leave the car in neutral. In America, where remote start is a bit of a "thing" - they all drive autos, so there's no risk of the car starting when it's in gear. If you bodge together a system for the Mini it will almost certainly permit uncontrolled use of the starter motor via a single button. All it takes is for someone to sit on the fob in the right way, or for a kid to start prodding buttons, or
something and, up to 200 metres away, your car will start bucking and shimmying down the street all on its own. Therefore, you must work in a brake interlock system where it will only work with the brake pedal depressed - this is easy enough on either the hydraulic switched brake lights or the little electronic switch, you just need to cut a wire in on the switched side and bring that to another relay in your system which sits between the control box and the solenoid. This way you can ensure that it will only start when someone is in the car.
