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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 6:44 pm 
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mini_mad_matt wrote:
Very nice guide GT mowog

Just one thing that i thought you might want to add, is that after flaring the pipe it is a good idea to inspect the flare for any splits/cracks in the pipe.


Thanks for bringing that up mini mad matt, you're quite right, the flares should be carefully inspected for cracks and splits. This has happened to me a couple of time but only on old tubing, though inspection is warrented none the less :wink:

Also, especially when making shorter or 'complex' piping, don't expect to get it right without some practice first up. Get some old tubing and old nuts and get in some practice. Make some measurement before you start flaring, so you know how much tubing length is 'lost' from this process. Same for bending tubing too.

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Last edited by GT mowog on Wed May 04, 2011 6:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 6:47 pm 
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For the little use it will get, hopefully it will do a good enough job.

If worse comes to worse, i'll use the little round dies in a propper tool.

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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 9:00 pm 
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To get a real tight radius like where it exits the rear brake cylinder, you can buy brake bending pliers such as the ones here on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/3-16-or-1-4-Brak ... 27b43d37a5
I use similar ones as well as the pipe bending tool.

The bundy tube you seem to get these days is what GT is using, with a green sort of coating. If you shop around you can still buy the uncoated version, say if your doing a resto.

The bundy tube also comes in a coil, which is not good if you need a straight bit. To make straight runs I use a flat piece of metal. and a small ball peen hammer to knock it straight. The tube is soft so it only needs gentle taps.

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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 7:15 pm 
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Add on...

So i'm in the process of fitting my hydraulic hand brake.

I pulled the 'out' lines out of the pressure limit valve in the back subframe, and expected to see a double flare.

This is no issue, but i'm just worried about blocking one of them off (as the hand brake master cyl will go inline AFTER the pressure limit valve), as I've been told to just use a bleed nipple. Will the bleed nipple seal as it should?

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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 10:06 pm 
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poeee wrote:
This is no issue, but i'm just worried about blocking one of them off (as the hand brake master cyl will go inline AFTER the pressure limit valve), as I've been told to just use a bleed nipple. Will the bleed nipple seal as it should?


yep, no problem


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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 10:20 pm 
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Why not move the PLV from the subframe to under the bonnet & put a tee in the rear subframe. Then you can 'tap'in to the front / rear brake pipe with yr handbrake.

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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 10:31 pm 
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GT mowog wrote:
Why not move the PLV from the subframe to under the bonnet & put a tee in the rear subframe. Then you can 'tap'in to the front / rear brake pipe with yr handbrake.


cos it's a lot easier to leave it where it is and just add a T piece next to it - like I did :)


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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 11:53 am 
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[quote="GT mowog"]There are a variety of fittings needed, depending on what you're plumbing up


This is an Invert Flare, as used with the hoses on the rear trailing arm, the Female Tube Nuts (first 3 from left above) are used with these

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Fitted on to these

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And also on the outputs of the rear brake limiting valve but using male pipe nuts. The male section of the flare is part of the valve.
Hadn't realised this myself until recently when I rebuilt a brake limit valve


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