It's pretty straight forward if you can follow a wiring diagram. If you can't you should get someone who has done this before.
You can buy lenses that replace the sealed beams that use H4 halogen bulbs.
I put separate relays in for high and low beams and spliced into the existing wires to switch them, that way I can reverse it if I chose to. Then from the relays to the headlights I used new wires though. I cant remember the guage but it is much bigger than the mini original stuff though.

Failing all else pm convertible mini, he's the resident auto sparky

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hey nav was it you who saw/ commented on my wiring of my spotties? the relays? i remember someone commenting on them.. haha it was to do with the colours of the wires if it was you?

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

Its easy enough to fit halogen H4 bulbs but you have to buy the right headlight lens that accept the H4 halogen globes and you have to run a decent capacity relay. It costs about $120 all up for a good set of headlights. The reason you must have a good capacity relay is that the high beam/low beam switch on both the clubbies and the roundies is not up to the job of carrying the current.

It will quickly fail, so the relay carries the current and the high/low beam switch simply switches on the relay which then carries the required current for the lights. An ordinary 35 amp/hour mini altenator will happily run a set of 90/130 watt H4 globes.

Mike

Not strictly true, its perfectly feasible to fit halogen globes that have lower wattage than standard lucas sealed beams, for examply 60/55W. They still produce more light, but are easier on the switch and wiring than the originals. Although relays definitely are a worthwhile improvement, you can get away without them.

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

The high/low beam switch can carry the current, but it's reall ust not a good design to run that much current through a switch if you don't need to. The switch will provide some resistance, so you can actually get more light by just wiring in the relays.




I suppose it depends on what you mean by good. I have ones similar to these:

http://www.minisport.com.au/prod983.htm

With some relays, done and dusted for about $70. I bought 50W driving lights at the same time as I bought these - I don't really need the driving lights now. These are really bright enough for my liking.

I suppose i have had mine now for a few years and it looks like the same kit but from a different source. Prices only go up and up.

We are in a kangaroo country and its 100 kmh roads the moment we go out the gate. As far as i am concerned, the brighter the lights the earlier you see the roos.

I am running 90/130s and no driving lights and its adequate - suburban driving may be a different issue.

Mike

I agree, I have relays on my Moke, although my lights are pretty bright. Cars coming the other way often flick their lights to remind me that I've forgotten to dip mine, sometimes they get quite rude about it, flashing etc. I like to respond by flicking them up to high beam . When I put the driving lights on too, other cars just turn theirs off because they think its daytime again.

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

You need more lights. Its a front wheel drive so get some more traction by hanging them further over the front.

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Simplify and add lightness

You might like to consider that the original driving lights, the Lucas SLR 700 were only 48 watts. The difference was in the globe between the driving and the fog light, same wattage, different shaped element.
Thats why they put 4 on some of the rally cars.
The later lucas sealed beam driving lights had larger wattages.

Too many lights start to slow you down, the forward pressure of all those photons start pushing you backwards.

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

Hi all,
It is bit out of the subject but slightly related lol,
I was thinking to put one of the Grilles with Integrated Spot Lamp to my 89 Auto Rover. I have a air con and condensor at the front on an angle.
I was wondering has any one seen or done one would it fir or not.
I love the spot light look lol.

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Since light travels faster than sound, people appear bright until you hear them speak

Funny, because too many lights actually do slow you down! The lights need to be powered by something, and that something is the alternator, which is powered by the engine. Put a big load on the alternator, and you put a bigger load on the engine (because the alternator isn't 100% efficient).

Yeah, OK, 4x100W = 400W = 0.5hp, but it's still something...

If that is the case, why can you order two sets of driving lights on a new mini, and also new jeeps? NSW police use XR6 falcons with one set of driving lights fitted giving a total of six main lights

As an alternative to upgrading your alternator you could consider HID lights in the spotlights, I think the Jaycar units draw just 30w each and they are much brighter.

Ummm. Can you legally fit HID's to a Mini?

Can you legally fit HID's to any car?
I was under the impression the answer was no..

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You're so square
Baby I don't care