Please don't hit it through the starter hole. You may bend the crank, seen it before.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

You're right.



I read it... but just incase others didn't.

Wow, how hard did you bash it to do that?

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TK probably means that someone else did it and he saw the aftermath... and it must've been a hard hit. Some people don't have the mechanical sympathy to realise a little tap is all that's needed

someone once showed me his way of doing it - unscrew the crankshaft bolt a couple of turns and bash it with a sledgehammer

well. it's still stuck on there good. i've spreayed a crap load of penetrating oil and crc in there and i had the puller as tight as i could get it then i was spinning it slowly while tappping it from the back......... No deal

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

As I said before - mine was stuck good and all I did was squirt with WD40 night and morning and "tweek" the wheel puller a millimeter or so each time - 5 days I came home from work and it was off - steady pressure rather than brute force won the day.

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

i have the same problem
im yet to try heat on the flywheel
and in addittion, LOCTITE have a spray that freezes, dry ice or something or other.
would the combination work?
i dont want to harm the crank, would ice/heat damage the end of the crank and bend it further in?

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1969 Blue Mini K, 1330cc, Weber 45, polished aluminum roll cage, Race seats, 4 point harness, full rewire incorporating 8 fuses, 6 relays and new headlights just needs tyres front shocks and a windscreen til re-register

Mmmmm.... look, I know what one other person said about heat being a last resort.... but to be honest, I don't see any harm in it.... DON'T STICK AN OXY ON IT AND WAIT FOR IT TO CHANGE COLOUR AND GO "Ahhh ohhh"..... just warm it up.....

My order of stubborness

-Hydraulic puller
-tap on back whilst under tension from puller via the starter motor....
-Then if its still not working, yeah give it a little warmth



SAFETY GUYS!!! DO NOT... FOR ANY REASON STAND IN THE WAY OF THE FLYWHEEL... IF IT FLIES OFF YOU'LL KNOW ABOUT IT

If people knew the correct method for assembling them, they wouldn't weld themselves on.... just oooooone liiitttttllle step everyone misses hehehehe

I have used an electric heat gun on the last couple that I have removed. Just a bit of gentle heat and they seem to come off easier.

I'm not getting it any hotter than the clutch is going to get it.

good point.

never had one that needed heat or belting to get off, but what's the missing step?

If I told you, you wouldn't believe me.... but its taper assembly 101...

- Make sure its clean
- Make sure its getting as much contact as possible (My pref is no less than 80% contact)
- aaaaand that other thing..... no one does it with any tapers,, its not normally a problem.... but given what where dealing with I throw everything at it I can.
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A smear of oil.

Yep. Not even kidding, just a film. Stops them fretting and welding themselves on and helps with fit.... don't get me wrong, if its lapped properly you'll still have a hard time getting it off, but it won't distroy the tail (rip the skin off it) and it won't "Spring" off... just slide.

I do it on all of mine, and I still have to use the hydro puller at full tilt to get them off,,, but they come off,,, and they don't wreck anything..


It took me days to convince this mowog I know that its the way to go... but after seeing it for himself, now he does it too



*Puts on flame proof suit*







.

Common knowledge in the bike biz... "Dry" crank arm assembly is just asking for trouble, so a smear of grease on the interface is always applied.

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You're only supposed to blow the BLUDDY DOORS OFF!!

Between you and I Mr Duck.... an aaaaweful lot can be said for you small motor mechanics....

I used to press train wagon wheels onto axles in a former life- white lead was (and probably still is) the lube of choice. It took a 100T press...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.