Way back in the 60's when I was first learning about engines and things on the farm, we use to cut large washers out of thick felt and sit it over the terminals before connecting the leads, then keep the washer slightly damp with oil. Stopped the corrosion buildup, and were cleaner in the dusty environment than dollops of grease that would spread itself over the top half of the battery and along the leads. I still use this today when I find a battery that is starting to corrode.

_________________
..

Isn't oil and felt non-conductive?
Oil is I know that.

The oily dusty grime that sit on the top of a battery under the bonnet of most cars is usually conductive. (the Mini has an advantage that its battery is not collecting crap through the grille)
Take a multimeter and stick one lead on a terminal and then run the other lead around the top of a dirty battery and watch how many volts are sitting on top of the case!

Like most electrical items the battery has to be clean and dry to keep in in top shape.

The clamp still fits onto the post of the battery with nothing in between. The felt washer sits around the base of the post, between the clamp and the battery top.

_________________
..

not clamped down, as the 12inch spare wheel only just fits in wedged hard up against the fuel tank and the battery. Had to dis -inflate it to get it in So I carry the 12volt pump with me So no not clamped down as there's no room for it with the large tyre, however the battery is as solid as a rock with the tyre jammed in place. It's not easy to remove i can tell you that.

I must say I'm learning a lot from all the discussions going on in here thanks guys I had heard about the grease trick before (dad used to use it on his trucks) but i always told him his mad because like meantioned i thought it would cause resistance.

Vaseline sounds like it might be the go once I get the battery out and clean it like you guys said.

Morris, what numbers am I looking for if the alternator is over charging? I mean I've always had to check for non working/ poor alternators, so don't know how much is too much? is over 14 too much? at idle? reving?

_________________
Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

Not a good enough excuse.
The battery needs to be correctly secured to the car chassis regardless, and most mini battery clamps wouldn't restrict the spare wheel anyway.

Your spare wheel is too big mate.
12" wheel Minis had a 145/70-12 tyre. Any bigger and you'll be looking at a smaller battery.. not a great idea! My boss's last 1275 LS was like this, the spare was a 145/80-12 or something.
Like the others said fit a battery clamp, it's illegal not to have one...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

would you like to put my battery clamp on for me then? I would give you $1,000 cash if you think your silly enough to make it fit with my wheel. I know its technically not legal without a clamp, but bugger me someone bite me please and show me how the battery will ever come out the way its in now.

I've just got my 12inch wheel to match the rest of my wheels on the car, 12 x 5 with the ziex tyre that minisport sell on them. http://www.minisport.com.au/prod645.htm Works for me for a spare. Stops the fuel tank from rattling on dirt roads too

I'm not silly enough to carry a 10inch rim and wheel for a spare on long road trips that could have me traveling huge distances on the spare running 3 12inch rims.. alright for round town to get you home, but not 500+ highway km's even on the back tyres.

_________________
Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

Well if you are using a 165/60-12 or 165/55-12 spare, you will need a smaller battery...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Turn the car upside down and shake it - just like it would happen if you should ever have the bad luck of an accident that rolls the car

_________________
..

I say go for it. I know it wouldn't fall out. I do see the point, but can postivitely say There's no way in hell it will come out. Not to meantion that my boot lining is also all been made by wedging piece by piece in. It's not just a mat like most, its a full ply board wedged in over the top of the battery and tyre and the two ply side pieces covering the fuel tank and RHS part of the boot hold it all in place. No way in hell's chance it will come out.

As the saying goes, "There's more than one way to skin a cat" as there is more than one way to hold the battery in place

_________________
Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!