BMC original descaler , works very well.

You have to drain the system via the plug at the back of the block first and if you can get a flow you can start a flush , using a bucket of hot water from the tap and a funnel made from the cut off top of a soft drink bottle ( it sits flush inside the radiator neck , use two buckets of hot water , replace the plug , top up with hot water ( no coolant or other additives just yet ) and one bottle of brown vinegar and run the motor , once up to temp ( let it cool ) , remove the plug at the back of the block and drain , another bucket of hot water , replace the plug , the system takes 3.55 litres , so add coolant 500ml and 200ml of rust inhibitor , 2.8 litres of hot water in the bucket and top up and your done

.

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Cheers 4 That snail be on it tomor.

Never noticed the heater outlet on my car I'll suss it out.

If anyone has pics be good .

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PrOuDlY aSkInG qUeStIoNs FoR uR aMuEsMeNt

Clubby heater cores fit in well, even in a roundnose. Zillions of these about, from all the dead rusted out Clubbies.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

My only comment is that the "extra" radiator does not make up for a cooling system that is not up to scratch in the first place.

The water pump has to be in good condition and the vanes not rusted or worn out.

The radiator has to be clean without a build up of muck in the cores. Its very cheap really to have a radiator place "rod it out" of the the muck.

The block has to be fairly free of scale and build up. Plenty of descaling products on the markket that will de-scale. I dont have ultimate faith in vinegar but will go with those that have used it with success. However, I dont believe it will clean a partially blocked radiator.

Mike

Yes , if the water pump is corroded and the radiator is 1/3rd blocked then additives will only have a limited effect

Brown Vinegar is 5% Acetic Acid and is good for the block/head , the main advantage is that is cheap and does,nt taint the coolant once you refill/ reset the system after a flush

.

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If the radiator is clogged I'd not muck about- take it to a rad shop for a proper clean.
They:
remove both tanks
rod out the core
pickle core clean with acid
solder the tanks back on
pressure test
paint

Cost varies from $60-$100+ depending on who and where. Shop about.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Water pumps, IMO, the only water pump to use is the one with the deep cast impeller like this -

http://www.minisport.com.au/prod135.htm

and NOT one like this with the pressed tin impeller, they are just crap and a waste of money -

http://www.minisport.com.au/prod134.htm

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Steve

Yeah the tin impellers go from this <to this >
Just add water, no coolant, and park it for years!
Property of Spiro da Moke (original motor, now rebuilt & in Gafmo's van)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If you have a late model head on your car it won't have the heater outlet on it, but it can be drilled to take one.

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directly above #4 cylinder mines blanked off.

Radiator mob quoted me 120+ depending on condit. had this down 4 years ago so dont think I'll need it again.

I will be take it out inspecting pump etc myself.

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PrOuDlY aSkInG qUeStIoNs FoR uR aMuEsMeNt