Where'd u buy urs from Brian outa curiosity?

I can understand and appreciate how some things require some tricks to get them in properly but how is it that these mounts are made more often not to fit rather than fit.

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PrOuDlY aSkInG qUeStIoNs FoR uR aMuEsMeNt

i had to jump on the engine to make it drop that 10mm it was out, then was able to get a small podgie par into one of the holes and wiggle it till they lined up,
my so called captive nuts got re drilled and tapped out as the threads were damaged anyway

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A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "Damn...that was fun!"

I got 2 new engine mounts from Karcraft but they are the same as the ones I had, Rover genuine type. So I have placed the 2 original ones in the vice and given them some tension and will try again tonight.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

I've had this same frustration with mounts in the past and resorted to levering, banging and swearing.

Doc, I think you need to mil and tack a nut on a few of these for the good of the Mini community. I'll certainly buy two pairs of mounts off you.

Cheers,
Brett

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

Hi Doc, Brett beat me to it. What's the possibility of you doing a few sets please ?
I would definitely have some

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head

Try the wangle and alot of swear words.
Try the mounts dry in the subframe to ensure the holes line up, enlargen the holes if you must but be careful.
If the holes match up in the subframe then try the wangle, make sure that the engine is ready to drop in. Head and radiator on. Leave the oil filter and generator or alternator and starter motor off.
I am assuming that the subframe is in the car.
Lower the engine in and bring the drivers side mounts into line with the holes. It may be better to just use the front bolt.
Use a small drift or a phillips to pull the engine mount so that the first hole is revealed in full. Put one of the bolts it from underneath and put a washer and nut on but only do lightly until a few of the threads are engaged.
Leave that side.
Move to the passenger side near the radiator.
Use the drift or phillips to pull one of the holes and I think the one nearest the firewall is best here over so that the bolt can be pushed through from underneath again. Use an open spanner with tape to hold or similar to hold the nut steady while you engage the nut from underneath by turning the bolt with a ratchet.
Now remember that the engine moves back and forward on the mounts and they absord a twisting movement in the rubber part. You will need to use this inbuilt movement to locate and put in the remaining bolts. Do not put on any of the engine steady bars or if they have been put on loosen their locating bolt where it enters the block.
Go back to the drivers or clutch side cover mount.
Working from underneath you should see a small bit of the hole of the mount. Use either a selection of drifts or smaller screwdrivers to bring the hole of the mount over the subframe hole. Move the engine on the clutch side gently back and forth to help this and when it appears ram the bolt through from the bottom but avoid hitting it with anything as you can strip the thread. The bolt may even end up crooked in the hole. Leave it like that.
Go back to the radiator/front of the engine, using the drifts or screwdrivers bring the hole of the mount over the subframe by gently moving the engine on the radiator side. Be sure not to allow your crooked bolt to fall out on the other side.
Put the last bolt in.
Fit the washer and nut as indicated and go back to your clutch side and fit the washer and nut.
Slowly tighten the first bolt you put in on the clutch side, then the second one on the radiator side and then go back to the clutch side and back to the radiator.
You are preloading the engine mounts in a way, whether they end up working better or worse I don't know, someone here will know.
Fit the engine steadies and put your ancillaries on.
These are not easy and my brother and I often curse the munchkins and engineers that designed these cars. But that is part of their charm.
Best of luck.

michaelb, What is they say here, 'Search is thy friend'. There is a trick to these mounts, but they are real easy to get the bolts in to;-

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... gine+mount

about the 6 posting down on the first page

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I add to GT Mowog, loosen the two bolts holding on the radiator bracket/ engine mount bracket. It helps with the wangling. Tighten them up before you refit engine steadies. I did not need to use the g clamp, although this sounds better if the subframe is out of the car. Sorry folks I forgot that part. Have to be more concise in future before I post.

My supplier (Karcraft) is presently out of QH mounts, I will see what his other ones are like dimension wise on Thursday.
You should not have to use friggin crowbars etc to fit mounts in a Mini!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I agree! You just jump up and down on the engine......

I have never had this problem in the past and I have been fitting mini engines for years.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

On the up side ull get mor beers in the longer it takes! Yay

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PrOuDlY aSkInG qUeStIoNs FoR uR aMuEsMeNt

I like your way of thinking.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Well after a few adjustments as per Kevin's photo, I "adjusted" the engine mounts and I also left them squished in the vice all day and tonight I fitted the engine back in Woo Hoo!

The bolts went in

Thanks team

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

This problem with the engine mounts seems to come and go.

We will contact Quinton Hazell in the UK and advise their product group manager about this.

Probably won't get an answer till after Christmas.

Regards
Karcraft

Thanks Karcraft, but I'm using the genuine Rover mounts you sell
I've never had this much issue in the past so I am some what confused as to if it is a mount issue or I have some other weird combination of engine/ gearbox casing / subframe tolerance??
Thanks for your input and assistance

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S