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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 7:45 pm 
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1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2006 5:59 pm
Posts: 1275
Location: Bris / Syd
Hey buddy I replaced my Mechanical one the other day... Had the same problem as you the car died a few times and tended to run spluttery for about the first 3-4 drives I also took the carby off replaced all the filters and lines.

Recheck your carby is on solid.

In the end i put it down to air in the system after a few drives everything runs fine and not spluttery.

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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 7:49 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Fri Mar 30, 2007 8:13 pm
Posts: 169
Location: Hobart, Tasmania
thanks mate,
I will check the carbi tomorrow to see its all on ok still!

hopefully thats all it is, which sounds logical as when I put the new pump on it was loving it for a few blocks & I was fair giving it to her

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1970 mini K
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 7:57 pm 
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1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2006 5:59 pm
Posts: 1275
Location: Bris / Syd
Mine was doing the same mate revving out on the motorway no problem probably drove 5 k then she died coming home on the back streets.

Good luck

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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 9:49 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:33 pm
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Coil???

The first thing to do when it coughs and dies is to immediately turn off the ignition and then remove the top of the float bowl(s) to check whether there is fuel.

If the bowl is 1/2-3/4 full (the float takes up the rest of the room with the lid on...) then you don't have a fuel problem.

A dying coil wil produce similar problems... or random faults in the electronic ignition module - if you have one of those. BTDT.

Cheers, Ian


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 6:29 pm 
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848cc
848cc
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Joined: Fri Mar 30, 2007 8:13 pm
Posts: 169
Location: Hobart, Tasmania
Grrr!
It did it again today! weird!

I got it out this morning, started fine, ran great again around a few blocks,
got it back in the drive way & left it idling for about 10 minutes, then it stopped again & wouldnt start!

When it stops the only warning is you try & rev it up & starts to coff & carry on & then it just dies.

I left it for about 30min & then it started again fine & was running great again

the carbi is ok, the fuel pump is new, the engine is new, the starter motor is new, what else could it be?

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1970 mini K
1966 850 van


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 7:12 pm 
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religious status
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39757
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Does it just cut out, or misfire when warmed up?
Check there's no moisture in the dizzy cap, wash it out with WD40 and wipe with a tissue.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 8:16 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Fri Mar 30, 2007 8:13 pm
Posts: 169
Location: Hobart, Tasmania
once its warmed up & has been running for a while ok, it starts miss firing & then just stops pretty much straight after - then wont turn on again for about 15 minutes but its fine again once it does start

dizzy cap... whats that? (im mechanicly retarded only really learning as I go now after all these years)

once I no what it is, I will try that as well

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 8:30 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Sun Jan 21, 2007 9:16 pm
Posts: 3166
Location: North of the Harbour planning my next mini project
I suspect the rotor button in the distributor or the condenser? Both will exhibit similar issues :shock:

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 9:47 am 
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1275cc
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Joined: Thu Aug 31, 2006 7:56 pm
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Location: Muswellbrook -- NSW
I think 1 of the mini guru's down your way should come and have a look at it for you ,
sure as sh!t it'll be something simple .

It would also be good to have them show you around the engine & car and explain
what things are and what they do .

Also , get yourself a manual , ( ie; the black book ) and start reading :wink: .


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 12:12 pm 
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Bimmer Twinky
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Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
Posts: 8606
Location: Brisbane
i`d have a look to see if the earth strap/wire is attached inside the distributor, it`s a very small thin wire that should be attached from the points base plate,,, to the body of the distributor

without it, or with it loose , the ar will perform (somewhat) like you`re describing, & intermitantly

sorry i`m not there to diagnose it for you, but if all else fails otherwise try changing the coil &/or condensor & points... they`re all not very expensive items & easy enough to change & then at least you know that they`re good & can keep looking elsewhere for the problem 8)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 12:16 pm 
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Bimmer Twinky
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Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
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Location: Brisbane
sometimes a dud coil will work fine when it`s cold, & play up like a naughty school boy when it`s warm/hot

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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