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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 11:10 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 20, 2009 12:31 pm
Posts: 631
drmini in aust wrote:
Kirby,
The bypass ball (valve) does have a spring, take a filter off and poke up at it..
Racers in UK suggest you should weld the ball onto its seat, or fit a plug instead.
I've never done this or ever had a problem, however I do change the oil every 1500 miles and the filter every 3000, religiously.
And my filter can has two 25mm dia x 10mm rare earth magnets clinging onto it, these grab lots of fines in there that would otherwise go through the filter paper, and around.. and around.. etc.

BTW these (and most other) filter mounts WILL work in any position, upside down even- because the bypass ball is spring loaded against its seat..


Good to know, Any idea what kind of pressure they open at.
With the mounting angle I was more referring to drain valves that some filters have.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 11:21 am 
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religious status
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39754
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I don't have the gear to check what pressure differential the opens at, but its purpose is to prevent collapse of the filter media, and also provide oil flow if the filter is blocked by owner neglect..

I have a Bling filter head here made in UK from alloy billet. It has no bypass.
I was going to install it, until GR told me a few horror stories... of filters collapsing with cold oil.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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