I drove my 74 Leyland Mini with stock 1100, and drum brakes for years as a daily. Other than the usual adjusting of the brakes, oil changes every 3000km and swiping the fully sick sanyo CD player from Mum's daewoo, she did the job. Then I got a bit "precious" in the heat and replaced my leyland with a Rover 1275SPi with discs and air con. Now I just change the oil every 3000 and the air filter and spark plugs every 10K. My partners 3 year old nissan navara seems to require more maintenance. I think driven carefully and cared for like most mini owners would, I see no reason why it shouldn't be as reliable as your everyday westinghouse/house appliance vehicle on the market nowadays.

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88 Rover 1.3i "Reggie"
99 Rover 1.3i “Grover”
12 Mini Cooper S "The shitter"
17 Mini Clubman JCW “Noddy”

This has all made me very excited for parking up the comfy commodore for the straight cut whine every day!
Ill spend my Xmas and new year making it as bullet proof as possible and hopefully have some enjoyable commutes in the new year!

Good New Years resolution I think....

All come equipped with some patience.
It's the best thing to get you through driving a mini daily.


You can drive it daily, it's doable.
There will be teething issues however. From when you get it on the road, don't expect it to be smooth sailing straight away, no matter how well you built it.
Don't set yourself up for disappointment.

Expect a few things to break and a few things to need adjusting, because they will.
Once you have driven it long enough, and the issues have plateaued you will have a well sorted daily

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You're so square
Baby I don't care

have been driving my 73 van for 12 /18 months
lined the roof fitted carpets
changed to disk brakes 12 in rims fitted honda civic seats .
and have a ball every day
as has been said keep up the oil changes and look after them a little preventative maintanance.should have no problems.

just the envy from all the other people.

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65 panel van Sprog
73 panel van Iggy

I'm looking forward to joining the daily club...

Can anyone reccomend a bulletproof weber dcoe linkage kit?
I just dont feel the minispares kit with the ball end on the rod is really the best option.

So long as your accelerator cable is in good nick, there shouldn't be a problem. I've had mine set up like this for 5 years... haven't touched it, or needed to

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Lillee is on the money
Make sure the cable is good - Kink free and well greased.

Graphite powder is a good choice to lubricate it, or just some moly grease (Anything is better than the nothing that it comes with)

I've also heard good things about the webber wheels

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You're so square
Baby I don't care

Yes kinks or extreme angles are the issue. What the wheels and whatever levers do is give nice wide radius for the cable to operate. Mount them with the least bends and angles as possible. This is important, not how they are connected.

A double return spring is also a good idea (compulsory in many racing rules). But the dellortos naturally spring back to closed via the pump spring from memory, still...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Thanks again for the tips,
The current setup is all good except for the nuckle joint kind of thing that I've attached to the throttle lever ball end. The clip wouldnt fit into the ball end so the rod is held from falling off only by a cable tie.

I may have done something its not even designed to do...which was pull out the fastener and rod from the end of the ball end and try and hook the ball end straight onto the throttle lever??

I think Ill either buy the correct matching ball end so it fastens on properly or just grab the weber wheel and fasten it onto the end of the rod which seems much sturdier.

The cable is brand new and so is all the linkage, and hasnt failed or moved yet at all. Just wanting to take any preventative measures possible.

My advice is keep your motor as stock as possible! That is the best was to keep them reliable.

I drove my hotted up Cooper S everyday for over 10 years, most of it in Melbourne and Adelaide traffic with regular interstate and countryside blasts, and occasional club track days at Calder and AIR. It rarely broke down and never left me stranded even when pushing it long and hard.

And that was on points, 10 inch wheels, Weber, sccr box, no aircon, nor all the other electronic gismos and driving "aids" that appear to be so necessary nowadays.

Was it all fun? You bet it was. Just let's say it's the only car I've owned that I actually always wanted to take the long way to work in everyday.

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

Same story here, I had an old 1310S motor in my wasaMatic with a 45 Dellorto, VP3 cam etc and drove it to work daily for over 15 years.
No problems to speak of. I did bin the points one day (after the buggers closed up) and stuck a Pertronix module in it. Best thing I did...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Kevin, having known you drove yours for 15 years is one of the key factors pushing me to get mine up to scratch to not just enjoy it on the weekends!

On another note,

Has anyone used a lynx linkage kit for a weber dcoe???
Trying to get an idea of how they look/work and whether I should just use a weber wheel with my current set up or grab a whole new kit

I've got the Lynx kit (fixed properly after the plastic bearings broke) on mine, if doing it again I'd use the wheel like you have.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Alrighty,

After having a search I think I will just order the wheel + sturdy cable holder and attach the cable essentially directly to the wheel.

The amount of rubbish on it now with bars, rose joints, clamps, etc is stupid and set up for failure.