That seems like more trouble than yanking the engine out

Well I went to pull the engine out and drained the oil.

It's milky as.... milk.

So engines coming out and were having a mechanics sesh on Saturday to do head gasket and redo the gearbox. Fun -.-

Bugger that's bad luck mate. i hope you haven't hydraulic it and done damage to the valves.

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I have an Addiction just not the time.......
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=80459
1968 Morris 1100 viewtopic.php?f=3&t=101555

Don't say that

I guess if that happens ill just buy a new engine

How do I tell if it's a real Cooper S? I want to e able to put a smaller engine in it

Quick update:

engine's out, we took the head off and the head gasket looked, well old. Nothing too bad. The bores still look fine no rust, just there was a bit of water in the top of the pistons but not heaps, so we'll re-assembly that on Saturday, just need to get a socket big enough to take the fly wheel off again, we'll organize all that on Saturday too.

Take off all the flywheel/cover etc and see if anything is binding. Hopefully its obvious and fixable.

Will update soon.

re the flywheel housing gasket, these used to be all 1 size, but over the years people around the world have made them from various materials down to only .022" thick!. Originals were around .034" I think.

I always bolt the flywheel housing to the gearbox (no motor) with the gasket I'm going to use, and get the idler gear endfloat set right. It's too hard to measure and correct if the motor is on the box already.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

excuse my ignorance, but I've been looking through my manual and can't seem to find anything about adjusting this, do you have any further info?

You normally adjust it by changing the thrust washers each side of the gear.
But if too loose you can also use a thinner gasket, or in extreme cases, machine a little off the flange of the flywheel housing on a milling machine.
[edit]



In your case if it's now too tight, it's probably had the wrong (ie a thinner) gasket fitted.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks mate will keep an eye out on re assembly.

I got the clutch cover/flywheel cover off yesterday, when you guys say it should be able to be turned over by hand, how easily are we talking? I can just manage to (using the fan pulley thing on the engine)

With all the spark plugs out it should turn fairly easily.
Let us know what you find with the idler gear endfloat..

If you put the flywheel housing on without the seal in, you can move the idler in and out with a bit of wire.

I made a tool so I can measure endfloat with engine still on the box:




The bent bit of wire is to push/pull the idler gear in & out.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

With the head off (no spark plugs) it's still not turning really easy I have to use a fair bit of effort. Maybe the next step is to take off the gearbox and see if that makes it easier.

I'd put the flywheel back on first and turn with that. Much easier to feel. If you can turn it by hand the starter should have no problems.
My money's on the idler gear being tight...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thought I should update.


Engine is back together and turning over like a dream, was the idle gear shims/gasket as many of you suggested.

Got a new gasket from the mini wrecker and it instantly felt thicker. Then just reassembled it all. Had a miss hap with the clutch but that's all fixed.


Now there's no spark -.-

Good News - Engine started and ran on Saturday WOOOHHOOO!!!!


Bad News - It's only running on two cylinders -.-

After trying everything, have determined it is not getting any fuel in the cylinders (3&4), it has twin SU's on it , so I'm assuming I'm going to need to re build these, woopie!

Now they were re-built something like 6 years ago now and have probably had no more than 3 hours of actual use time in those 6 years, is there going to be an easy solution or something to look for? Some thing in the float stuck? I'm not sure I haven't played to Carby's too much, but from what I hear SU's aren't too hard, so I might start.

Does anyone have any tips? Good guides to re-build them? A list of parts?

Any help is greatly appreciated.


You guys are legends.

Jordan