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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 11:43 am 
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Location: Blue Mountains
You can do the same thing with spuds ! just chop a few up throw em in a bucket of water with the rusty parts for a few days, the smell is horrendous so outside job only


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 1:07 pm 
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Location: Port Stephens, a little north of Newcastle, Australia
Mick wrote:

What's the jist? Did it keep colds and flues away? Or just a little extra energy?

Full of minerals
Much cheaper and more effective then vitamin tablets.
Keeps some people 'regular' although it doesn't do that for me.
BTW, black strap although derived from sugar cane does not have any sugar in it and is very bitter.
drmini in aust wrote:
My mum liked giving us cod liver oil too. :P

Still take the cod liver off the spoon, daily.
It is an excellent anti-inflammatory.
Also acts like a blood thinner but it isn't, sort of makes the blood more 'slippery'


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 10:53 am 
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Does black strap molasses effect galvanising?
Maybe the Doc knows.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 10:58 am 
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What effect does the ratio of mollasis to water have on the rust eating?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 11:11 am 
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Graham Russell recommended that I use as little water as possible. Use hot water which makes the molassas more runny. I ended up using approx 2:1 or 3:1 ratio (water : molassas) on my block and it worked a treat.

I drained my radiator the other day after about 5 years and it was clear and green (as opposed to murky and brown)

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 11:37 am 
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But why water at all? Is it a cost thing or is it too thick and messy without it?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 11:43 am 
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Too thick, it's the consistency of refrigerated honey...

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 12:33 pm 
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Sounds like I'll need 10 litres then: 5 lites for rust removal, 5 litres for office pranks.
:lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 12:41 pm 
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Dont get it onto anything near anything you want to keep clean, carpet, clothes, hair. It's smelly, messy but tasty stuff

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 12:50 pm 
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Mine is in a 56L rectangular tub with lid under the house - good place to "leave and forget" ....reminds me I better look in to see if there is anything in it - been there 2 years if there is.

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My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 2:30 pm 
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HistoricRacingS wrote:


And DON'T PUT ALLOY COMPONENTS IN IT AS IT WILL EAT INTO THEM!!

HRS


Don't forget this tip


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 2:51 pm 
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norton wrote:
HistoricRacingS wrote:


And DON'T PUT ALLOY COMPONENTS IN IT AS IT WILL EAT INTO THEM!!

HRS


Don't forget this tip


This includes cam bearings on blocks

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 3:29 pm 
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Lillee wrote:
norton wrote:
HistoricRacingS wrote:


And DON'T PUT ALLOY COMPONENTS IN IT AS IT WILL EAT INTO THEM!!

HRS


Don't forget this tip


This includes cam bearings on blocks

and the 1275 or whatever badge on the back.

I used molasses in the block because it works without any electrical current applied.
Vinegar (acetic acid) would probably work in there too.

I think you need water for 2 reasons- to reduce the viscosity (it is pretty thick) and to let the chemical reaction work.
GR told me to use 3:1, it's what he always used in his SS sink and he found it works well.
It is not a fast process though so don't expect results in days, it takes weeks if parts are seriously rusted.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 3:50 pm 
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The solution has turned to Jelly after being left standing for 2 years :shock:

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 3:57 pm 
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Mmmmmmmmm molasses...Jelly sandwich anyone? :P

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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