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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 6:56 pm 
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Location: East Melbourne, Australia
Harley wrote:
The power increase comes from being able to adjust the engine management system.
For plug and play, this is what you want:
http://www.twinkam.co.uk/shop/article_SC0127.001/Rover-Mini-SPi-Plug-and-Play-Typhoon-ECU.html?sessid=iYDkFPs2O6LiwuhDjOKFSE2D8g2Ssx3zuvVwIfawpMdLwivgWIK4wxJZvhLicS4M&shop_param=cid%3D21%26aid%3DSC0127.001%26

Though strictly it's not plug and play: you have a Jap car. The UK cars didnt have AC so that won't be in the standard mapping so you'd have to check its compatible. Next, the computer is different - its the early 2 plug box with something closer to MPI mapping than SPI, so you'd have to get it (or make it) match the base programming before you can even start the car. Neither a standard UK MPI or SPI ECU map will get a jap car to start.
If they provide direct 98 jap model computers you're fine but I haven't seen it done before. Upto 96 jap spec yes, but not after.


On that link you posted above there is a model year drop down box. One is 1992-1996. The other drop down is for 1997 onwards (Japanese spec only).


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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 6:57 pm 
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Hey there is too.
Must be new cause last time I looked they didnt have them!
:lol:


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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 7:14 pm 
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Would this be a worthwhile option? Sorry to all you guys that are replying to my questions for being such a noob. I didn't expect things to be so complicated. What would be the frist priority for me to start modding the engine. I'd have to do bit at a time as I don't really have a big budget as I should be putting money towards a business im looking at.n Should first priority be a new head? Unfortunately im stuck with efi as i don't want trouble with RWC.


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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 7:42 pm 
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I had a "plug and play" typhoon" on my 93 rover mini automatic.. worst thing ever.. none of the maps worked and the usb cable broke so i sent it back to get a new one..

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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 7:44 pm 
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You can play it however you like, but there's a sensible order to do things and that would be avoid repetetive work since it sounds like you won't be doing it yourself.
IE - don't pull half the car apart to fit extractors if you're going to do headwork too, do them at the same time. Do the water pump whilst you're down there too.

I've done exactly what I listed previously to my 98 model, and it runs really well. I don't want to start playing with computer related stuff as its a little less known out here, thats why I've stayed with good old fashioned hardware mods.

$1200 for a computer that gets you 5hp vs the same spent on a head and exhaust will be completely different outcomes.


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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 9:35 am 
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If I can find a spare 1275 head would it be worth while working prepping this with all the goodies that you guys recommend and then swapping over when time and money allows. That way im not gonna pimp the original head. Better for resale if I decide to sell car later down the track with car in original condition?? What should I pay for a head and are they easy to find?


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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 9:41 am 
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Harley wrote:
Do the water pump whilst you're down there too.

Is replacing the water pump necessary because of the age of the car? Looked on mini spares and they all seem to be just replacement pumps rather than improved performance.


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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 9:57 am 
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water pumps are hard to get to so if the engine bay is half pulled apart it makes access soooo much easier, their is no way to tell what condition the pumps in unless it has already failed and leaking or it's removed and the fins are inspected to see if they are rusted away.
Generally it's replaced just to make sure the one that's on the engine is in good condition.

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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 12:56 pm 
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Kennomini wrote:
water pumps are hard to get to so if the engine bay is half pulled apart it makes access soooo much easier, their is no way to tell what condition the pumps in unless it has already failed and leaking or it's removed and the fins are inspected to see if they are rusted away.
Generally it's replaced just to make sure the one that's on the engine is in good condition.


Sounds like great advise Harley and Kennominni! For less than $20pounds sounds silly not to put a new one on. Cheers.


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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 5:11 pm 
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On a normal mini changing the pump is easy - they're cheap and access is straight forward.

On the late jap cars the pump is slightly different to other minis, so you'd have to buy one from the uk (week or 2 delivery). 4 hours would have the job done easily, but thats for a pro.
If the heads off anyway, it only adds another 90 minutes to the job at most.


Perhaps the easiest way to see if the performance mods you're looking at are any good is to compare with another car?
Happy to meet you at Fountain Gate one weekend for a cat-and-mouse lap around the Cardinia Reservior and a crash course in jap car specifics.
:D


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