The drive flange spacer is in perfect condition. But when I bolt it all together the bearing is sloppy, more than 3mm play in it. I've pulled it apart and on and off the car too many times and I can't get it to be firm. Both sides are the same.

Any ideas?

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That bearing is rooted now, but with the assembly, have you got the large thick washer fitted behind the cv nut when you tighten it all up?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

It did surprising clean up well, however, were the bearings still a good tight interference fit on the hollow shaft of the drive flange after removing the inner bearing race? 999 / 1000 they end up looking like those that Mick posted back a bit.

I'm guessing from experience that the tunnel and / register in the hub is also worn and that's what's giving the play.

<EDIT> Did the bearing assembly come with a spacer or are you re-using the old one?

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I know you have the inner ring off now but another way to remove it is to add a couple of tacks of weld onto the hardened inner ring and it will crack off.

oh well some information is better late than never.

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"Investing my Super in a Cooper" &
"Re-living my Surfing Past in a Woody"

Yes I've got the thick washer.

The new bearings did fit very tight on the shaft of the drive flange. They had the old bearings with the spacer in the middle, and the new bearings don't need it. I suspect there might be a small gap between the bearings.

I've replaced both sides and they've turned out the same. Only the right needed replacing, the left was perfect before..

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It May be My old eyes, But in Your Photo The edge of the collar appears to have some
Rough Edges, That is why I thought You should check it

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" A Hundred Years From Now It will not Matter what my Bank Acount Was,
The Sort Of House I Lived in, Or The Kind Of Car I drove ... But The World May Be A Better Place
Because I was Once Important In The Life Of A Child"

John Smidt wrote:



Yep Quick Machine/Grind/File

I took the hub in for an expert opinion and it turns out the bearings supplied to me were assembled backwards, so he flipped them around. Hopefully this solves the problem and I can get the other side fixed too!

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Yep, took the left side home yesterday afternoon after the bearings were flipped around and it bolts up very nicely with no play.

The right side got flipped around today as well.

So if you buy drum brake front bearings GHK1018 in a blue box - check the bearing is assembled correctly before you install them into the hub

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The rear wheel bearing started grumbling the other day, and it had a bit of play on the right rear.

I ordered some new bearings thinking "well I did the front ones before and they weren't so bad"

I had forgotten about this thread about how the inner had got stuck on

Guess what had happened on the back?


Aaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrgggggggghhhhh!!!!!!!!!!

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the first ever "proper" mechanical job I did on a mini was one of those - just the same... I cut through the side of it with an angle grinder and belted it off. Haven't had one do it since (18 years later)

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Also, chuck the flange in the freezer with your magnum ice creams and the bearings can be heated with hot air gun or the mrs's hair drier, just hot enough to still handle. It'll make the inner bearings slide on easier. Then warm hub and freeze outer cups to acheive same.

Angle grinder

+ 5 minutes =

And a nice clean hub

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Polish the shaft a bit with 180 paper if needed so the bearings slide on nice. The are NOT meant to be a press on fit.
Do this and they'll come off easy next time.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yep, thanks for the tip.

The taper bearing are supposed to assemble this way round? So as you tighten the nut the bearings get tighter?

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