1380 with 2.95:1 FD, standard gear set, 165x70 A008s @ 32psi on 5x10 Minilites - GPS showing bang on 70 mph/112 kmh @ 3,800 rpm. (75 mph @ 4,000).

Yes, quick starts with 2.95:1 FD are slower but not by much with strong 1380. Mini is among the top placings in autocross class (based on total points, no other 2.95s). Best part is crossing America at 70 mph towing the trailer (all up weight 2,480 lbs/1,130 kgson the Interstate and passing traffic uphill and getting +40 Miles per Imperial Gallon/+14.2 kms/litre!

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Select a gear, bring up the revs and release the clutch...off you go!

1380 with 2.95:1 FD, standard gear set, 165x70 A008s @ 32psi on 5x10 Minilites - GPS showing bang on 70 mph/112 kmh @ 3,800 rpm. (75 mph @ 4,000).

Yes, quick starts with 2.95:1 FD are slower but not by much with strong 1380. Mini is among the top placings in autocross class (based on total points, no other 2.95s). Best part is crossing America at 70 mph towing the trailer (all up weight 2,480 lbs/1,130 kgs) on the Interstate and passing traffic uphill and getting +40 Miles per Imperial Gallon/+14.2 kms/litre!

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Select a gear, bring up the revs and release the clutch...off you go!

My Moke:

185/60R13 tyres
3.94:1 diff
About 3750rpm at 100kph.

Eventually I will probably switch to 175/70R13 or 185/70R13 tyres to drop the revs a little more.

By way of comparison my AW11 MR2 turns 3500rpm at 100kph in 5th! Maybe it's some weird US-spec gearing for cruising at a 55mph limit.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

Hmm ok, now for the next dumb question.... How hard is it to change the diff ratios yourself? (for those who average at mechanical work) or is it a job that is worth paying someone else to do?

If you can strip and reassemble a Mini gearbox you can do it yourself.
The hardest part is undoing the pinion nut. It is only supposed to be 150ft/lb torque, but I have removed some I swear were more like 300+.
Gorillas I reckon did those up with a 3/4 drive rattle gun and a bottle of Loctite.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hmm so considering I have never pulled down a mini gearbox and I don't have a spare, it is probably better to pay someone else I am guessing i may as well get the gearbox overhauled at the same time if i am paying someone else.

Damn more saving to be done....

Its no way as hard as redoing the gearbox.

Even with the 'box still attached to the engine its a relatively simple undo and assembly is the reverse......

As Kev said, the hardest bit is undoing the pinion nut. You will need a deep socket (can't remember if its the crank nut or ball joint socket??).

Cheers, Ian

You need a deep 1-1/2" socket, 3/4 drive preferred. (because sometimes it takes a 6ft length of scaffold pipe on the 3/4" breaker bar to undo the sucker- a 1/2 breaker bar will curl up/break and die.

You also need to lock it into 1st and 4th gears together, to hold the mainshaft still whilst you do this.
3 synchro boxes you lock into 2nd and 4th (according to my manual).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

How does one go about removing the bearings? The last time I stripped a box, the case was stuffed so I bashed the bearings out without consideration for conserving the case, by the time I had it apart the area where the bearings sit was destroyed.